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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. CHECKstar

    CHECKstar Senior member

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    Safety razor user here: Merkur plus feather blades, Proraso pre & post shave and Taylor's Jermyn Street Shave Cream (although I am currently using up a tub of Proraso Shaving Soap).

    I have NFI what the Merkur model is, but I have been using it since I got it as a Christmas gift 2 years ago and haven't looked back. Did take a fair bit of practice to be able to not inflict damage to my face, but once you get the hang of it, it takes about 5 or so mins in the morning to get a great result.

    Also, with all the talk about MJ Bale, I probably should make mention that I did purchase a summer suit from the Melbourne store over the holiday break and decided to go through them for alterations. I found that they did mark-up the alteration costs considering they use the same service as Herringbone (ie $70 to take in a jacket waist as opposed to $45 or so at HB).
     


  2. Romp

    Romp Affiliate Vendor

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    Out of interest who do these guys use for their alterations and is the quality decent?
     


  3. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    If I remember correctly, P. Johnson's ties are made by Drake's.

    I know that both of them have a regrettable focus on narrow ties - P. Johnson's are only 7cm in width and most of Drake's ties are 7cm and 8cm in width.
     


  4. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Thanks for the advice on the bow ties; I'm going to go ahead an buy one of Henry Carter instead off Le Noeud as I can't imagine paying $100ish for a bow tie.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2013


  5. CHECKstar

    CHECKstar Senior member

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    I am pulling a mental blank on the name, but very decent quality.
     


  6. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Safety razors and myoclonic fits do not a happy combination make, I find.

    I use the full disaster Fusion Ultra Excess Power Plus Improved whatever. Jack Black shaving cream and Men-U post-shave conditioner. I only shave down, and have no ingrown hair problems. The only problems I have are when I do have a tic - I get 5 tiny cuts on my face instead of 1 or 2.
     


  7. Romp

    Romp Affiliate Vendor

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    yeah again the previous ties seemed to be mainly drakes

    now there is a mix of italian makers (which i prefer) in addition to the drakes
     


  8. Dusty Brogues

    Dusty Brogues Senior member

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    Thanks PoP l will follow this guy up!
     


  9. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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    That's a large markup on alterations. In my earlier days at Herringbone, I remember Herringbone used to wear some of the cost of alterations. In fact, most alterations were subsidised to an extent, and the trouser hemming was complimentary. Nowadays, everything is charged for, but if they're using the same alterations service, $70 is profiting on alterations. However, the benefit is that when mistakes are made, at least MJ Bale will cover it rather than dealing with an alterations service.
     


  10. CHECKstar

    CHECKstar Senior member

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    Well said as always.
     


  11. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    +1

    Agree with the rest of your post, too.
     


  12. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    I wore a pair of these Land's End linen pants last week. Copped them on sale last year. Was a good buy.
     


  13. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    The McNutt linen that LE has is wonderful proper thick Irish linen. I don't know how they do it so cheap. It is very very high quality. However their colour schemes leave a lot to be desired at times. Ask meister!

    Sadly the linen cotton mixes I saw were dreadful to feel and I sent them back.

    Any other fit than "tailored" in LE is dangerous floppy large American fit territory - except in some cases.

    LE can be inconsistent from season to season in fits etc even in commonly named and numbered styles. And sometimes they don't even run a line each year. Best advice is - if you find something that fits just right in LE, like chinos, then wait for their frequent 30% off sales and buy a big bunch. My favourite fit/style of chinos doesn't even appear in their lines for the last 12 months. Luckily I have 6 pairs but would like more colours. Ditto one OCBD - they no longer make the best colour - light blue with widely spaced white guarded stripes - and I only have one shirt of it.
     


  14. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Shaving - don't attempt a cut throat razor unless you want to bleed seriously or lose an ear or half a nose. They have to be super sharp to work well and super sharp means a slight flick of the wrist will slice a finger.

    THE MAN FROM IRONBARK by A.B. "Banjo" Paterson

    It was the man from Ironbark who struck the Sydney town,
    He wandered over street and park, he wandered up and down.
    He loitered here, he loitered there, till he was like to drop,
    Until at last in sheer despair he sought a barber's shop.
    "'Ere! shave my beard and whiskers off, I'll be a man of mark,
    I'll go and do the Sydney toff up home in Ironbark."


    The barber man was small and flash, as barbers mostly are,
    He wore a strike-your-fancy sash, he smoked a huge cigar;
    He was a humorist of note and keen at repartee,
    He laid the odds and kept a "tote", whatever that may be,
    And when he saw our friend arrive, he whispered, "Here's a lark!
    Just watch me catch him all alive, this man from Ironbark."

    There were some gilded youths that sat along the barber's wall.
    Their eyes were dull, their heads were flat, they had no brains at all;
    To them the barber passed the wink, his dexter eyelid shut,
    "I'll make this bloomin' yokel think his bloomin' throat is cut."
    And as he soaped and rubbed it in he made a rude remark:
    "I s'pose the flats is pretty green up there in Ironbark."


    A grunt was all reply he got; he shaved the bushman's chin,
    Then made the water boiling hot and dipped the razor in.
    He raised his hand, his brow grew black, he paused awhile to gloat,
    Then slashed the red-hot razor-back across his victim's throat:
    Upon the newly-shaven skin it made a livid mark -
    No doubt it fairly took him in - the man from Ironbark.

    He fetched a wild up-country yell might wake the dead to hear,
    And though his throat, he knew full well, was cut from ear to ear,
    He struggled gamely to his feet, and faced the murd'rous foe:
    "You've done for me! you dog, I'm beat! one hit before I go!
    I only wish I had a knife, you blessed murdering shark!
    But you'll remember all your life the man from Ironbark."

    He lifted up his hairy paw, with one tremendous clout
    He landed on the barber's jaw, and knocked the barber out.
    He set to work with nail and tooth, he made the place a wreck;
    He grabbed the nearest gilded youth, and tried to break his neck.
    And all the while his throat he held to save his vital spark,
    And "Murder! Bloody murder!" yelled the man from Ironbark.

    A peeler man who heard the din came in to see the show;
    He tried to run the bushman in, but he refused to go.
    And when at last the barber spoke, and said "'Twas all in fun—
    'Twas just a little harmless joke, a trifle overdone."
    "A joke!" he cried, "By George, that's fine; a lively sort of lark;
    I'd like to catch that murdering swine some night in Ironbark."

    And now while round the shearing floor the list'ning shearers gape,
    He tells the story o'er and o'er, and brags of his escape.
    "Them barber chaps what keeps a tote, By George, I've had enough,
    One tried to cut my bloomin' throat, but thank the Lord it's tough."
    And whether he's believed or no, there's one thing to remark,
    That flowing beards are all the go way up in Ironbark.

    The Bulletin, 17 December 1892.

    Ingrown hairs are more common in people with curly hair and / or African - Americans. Ingrown hairs also can arise from shaving too close and too much - modern multi blade razors tend to shave slightly under the top layer of skin, by design, and increase the chances of ingrown hair.

    Some people find electric/ dry shaving increases the incidence of ingrown hairs. Others find that and electric razor can be adjusted to shave a bit longer and this lessens ingrown hairs. Sometimes if you are inclined to ingrown hairs it is better to let them grow and maintain a constant 2 day growth, if it suits you and / or a short trimmed beard.

    Using hot water to soften hairs prior to shaving is important. Good shaving cream will help soften hairs and make them easier to cut. It will also provide a smooth, slippery surface to slide OVER skin.

    Shaving foam/cream also shows where you have been so you don't miss bits or do bits twice.

    Don't press hard. Use sharp fresh razors don't keep a razor for more than a few shaves. Blunt razors cut skin.

    Single blade disposables are better than multi blades for avoiding ingrown hairs. (single and double blade means something different in safety razors)

    Shave with the grain not against. If you want a closer shave shave with the grain first then across, not against, the grain, with another application of cream.

    Most people have the grain run down on face and up on neck - most people also don't know this.

    Not everyones' grain runs the same way - test yours by rubbing after a few days growth. Or on us manly types a few hours growth!

    Don't use a traditional alcohol based after shave on you face and neck. Use a cream/moisturiser type after shave.

    Don't wash your face with soap unless clinically indicated. You can get face washes from supermarket but its cheaper and better to get HUGE bottles with pump of Hospital Quality liquid washes from the Chemist warehouse. And these can be used for the whole body.

    If using a proper safety razor - please cosider others - do not leave a razor anywhere a kid can get to them. Get a proper sharps disposal kit/bottle for old razors. This is serious - many kids, and adults, get bad cuts from picking up SAFETY razors the wrong way .

    Most of the above applies to shaving almost any area of the body.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2013


  15. meister

    meister Senior member

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    So are the Irish linen shirts. I wore one yesterday in the 41C heat. Fantastic and very comfortable!
     


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