Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Michael,

    Ultimately, the best shirt for you will be whichever you feel fits you best, in the style that you prefer, at a price that you are willing to pay.

    As an example, a colleague of mine only wears Rhodes & Beckett shirts as they fit his body shape very well and he likes the collar style and the colours. Therefore, even though it's possible to get other shirts more cheaply, he has no interest in trying as he's found his sweet spot - a shirt that fits well in a style that he likes, at a price that he's willing to pay.

    Of course, deciding just what style you do actually like can take a bit of refining, and can also change over time. I used to like cutaway collars and French cuffs, but now I gravitate more towards either wide spread, or button-down collars and button cuffs.

    I've had shirts from both Charles Tyrwhitt and Rhodes and Beckett in the past, and I find that the collars are a bit too hard or stiff for my tastes - I prefer a softer, unfused collar. However, that's purely a personal preference and some people like stiffer collars, particularly as they tend to stand up more when unbuttoned.

    Just to throw another RTW name into the mix, you could have a look at TM Lewin, too. They're often viewed as being very similar to Charles Tyrwhitt, although some people say that their shirts are slightly better. I've never had a TM Lewin shirt, so I can't comment personally. I think that they now have a store in Sydney as well as shirts in DJs, so you could actually head along and have a look at the TM Lewin store, as well as looking at their website.


    As has been noted above, there are several different factors that influence the way a fabric feels, but in general, the higher the thread count (2 x 100s, 2 x 120s etc), the finer and softer the fabric will feel, particularly in a poplin.

    If you want a fabric that feels denser and more rigid, you might prefer a different weave, such as an oxford or a twill. Don't forget that, in addition to the classic oxford weave, there are also variants such as pinpoint oxford and royal oxford which can look dressier than a standard oxford cloth shirt. A white, or a light blue pinpoint oxford shirt can make an excellent dress shirt. I think that the best thing to do is to probably go and try on as many shirts as possible in lots of different types of fabric so as to see what you like most!
     


  2. npvpositive

    npvpositive Active Member

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    One advantage of P Johnson is you can get your trousers with side adjusters rather than a belt . . . certainly helps when you've been hitting the grog too much!
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2012


  3. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Have you been spying on me?
     


  4. Windowpane1967

    Windowpane1967 Senior member

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    HONG KONG WARDROBE UPDATE TOUR 2012 !!!

    Hello All, have returned from first trip to HK and wanted to post a note to thank you all for your recommendations and suggestions of places to visit and tailors to use. Was truly very appreciative of the posts here and the PMs sent through. I followed up on all suggestions - Ascot Chang, Gieves and Hawkes, Gordon Yeo, Jantzen and Margaret Court the tailor for the other half's gear. Like many of you said, HK is a GREAT city to visit and so much fun for those of us who love to hunt and search for those somethings different to wear.

    The highlights were many and vast, the lowlights exhausting and surprising.

    I would narrow down to The Armoury. I now have a collection of Drakes now that will last me for sometime - except the grenadine navy that was ruined by HK Customs when they pulled all my gear out to remove a shampoo bottle that was larger than 100ml, it now has a 'pull' that runs across the tie, am decidedly ropable about it, was in a packet and all, have no idea why they had to pull it out also, needless to say its buggered and Im very disappointed about it all because of all the ties I purchased this one was my favourite. On the positive met Alan See and he helped with the introductions to WW Chan who were as one would expect consumate professionals. I have to say amongst all the sterile usual high street stores this shop, the Armoury with its smaller Landmark store was a treat to visit. Each time I dropped in, I bought something that will be used and treasured for a long while to come. The staff are incredibly helpful and followed through on each request. I was keen to acquire one of the navy Armoury logo ties, which was tracked down for me and left to pick up, message also left at hotel letting me know!!! NEVER experienced anything like the service in Australia. From memory they dont have many more of the Armoury logo ties left, if any!!

    The other highlight amongst many many would have to be the service and professionalism of Joanna Cheng at IL Sarto. It was quite by accident that I was traversing from the Lan Kwai Fong Hotel through the back streets to Central when I passed by this tailor/store. Without hesitation, I would recommend to all. I know many of you have your favourite tailors in HK, I would just say, perhaps add these guys to your list and check them out next time. Joanna is a true professional and knows her trade. Whilst I was being fitted I saw several other suits being tried on and fitted by others including the owner. They were outstanding, both in fabric choice and importantly their fit. Am very much looking forward to receiving my items from IL Sarto. For those of you who subscribe to RAKE Mag, they have a couple of feature articles over last few months I subsequently discovered!!.

    The Swank shops are impressive. Just out of my coin range I think. (Pink Socks....loved their range of Boglioli jackets, outstanding in fit and fabric, probably the highlight of jackets I tried on during the fortnight - the unstructured jackets they are making are the best next to perhaps those I tried on in Kiton for $16k...yes thats $16,000 - certainly the best of the best plus one there!!!). Brioni, ordinary and not a lot of stock, relying heavily on the tailoring side of the business as was a few other high enders. Canali were also pretty impressive in range and offerings.

    Finally, on the highlights, ETRO. Have been away of this label for sometime, however, given its limited release in Australia have never really sought it out. ETRO Mens are very close by to The Armoury Landmark so ended up buying several pieces from them. I have to say their material and make is excellent and the individualism I liked very much. I am now sourcing more through friends in the UK. Are many of you here ETRO fans at all? Im very conservative during the week day work hours, but this gear appeals to my alternative side outside the work hours were I need to break out of the shackles.

    Couple of comments on the lowlights without being boring - Zegna!!!! Visited all there stores as I have been a supporter and wearer for many many years mostly for work, ie suits and trousers, ties and shirts etc. I have to say the 1 Peking Road Store is very impressive however, the stock all the stores offer is very very conservative and boring to be honest. Im someone who shops not for something specific, if I see something and I like Im a buyer - not one of the many Zegna stores in HK had anything Id part with coin for. Perhaps they targeting the conservative Chinese market which totally makes sense, not to mention no one above size 44. Im a 46, or sometimes a 44L in Zegna but, what a waste of time, hardly any stock available in my size other than, of course the Couture range. Also, and I know this has been a subject of much comment here on the forum, staff that shadow you all around the store...how irritating is that??? By the weeks end I could stand it no longer, I wanted to stab one of them with my biro...I am able to look through the tie rack without any assistance!!

    Incotex (Slowear) have departed HK despite several www articles to the contrary that still remain on the www. Was surprised by this. Looked up and down Wyndham Street only to learn they had gone some time ago. Was looking forward to seeing their gear in full, however was told they made a quiet unimpressive exit from HK.

    Abercrombie and Fitch....what a JOKE that concept store is. Its dark, its loud and its rubbish. Its just a shame it has such a prominent position in Centrals most beautiful old building the Pedder Building. I went in, did a loop and was out again in minutes. Its so dark you cannot see 'stuff' and so loud you cant even ask the staff where anything is because you cant hear yourself let alone anyone else. Given retail rents are rising by average 35% per year in HK Id hope they are a casualty soon.

    Nathan Road from Tsim Sha Tsui station to Jordan Station, avoid at all costs. Despite the assurances from several of you here, this was truly horrendous - was hassled relentlessly. Head to Mong Kok, and out from there, far more enjoyable and truly an experience with some beautiful spots in amongst the frenetic pace of the mainland.

    Thanks again all for your suggestions was terrific. And, on a last note, yes I bought shoes!!! All casual though so not worth ranting on about here.

    Am planning next years trip already.
     


  5. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior member

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    Walked past these guys a few times on Exhibition St.
    http://www.cecil.com.au/

    Could be interesting, MTM for around $150
     


  6. CHECKstar

    CHECKstar Senior member

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    Hey CD - here is what Tom told me early last year when I had a similar question:

     


  7. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

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    Boglioli make the jackets/suiting for Etro. If youre in Milan, you should check out the Etro outlet store. You can buy the fabric by the metre.
     


  8. Romp

    Romp Affiliate Vendor

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    TBM was talking about my weight loss as he pointed out in this photo from my personal tumblr (Paolo Albizatti knit tie, Pjohnson suit in AFblue sharkskin, TM shirt, vintage submariner on lifesaver nato)

    [​IMG]

    Ive dumped about 5kg and its come off my arms + gut and through the legs. you can notice the arm width and leg width here but if anything its just a bit looser in look.

    Im contemplating getting them adjusted although im not overly keen to adjust my arm sizing.

    I might get a remeasure and a few new suits incase I dont maintain this new weight.
     


  9. Windowpane1967

    Windowpane1967 Senior member

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    Ahh is that right. Interesting. I never knew that. A trip to Milan, Napoli etc would be the death of me!! Id be paying for many many years later. However, it is being thought about!!! Hahah
     


  10. Plestor

    Plestor Senior member

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    Just a warning that too much alteration there gets the full :foo:-ambrosi effect (pockets misaligned).

    On shirtings 1 last comment. Generally staple length is not reported which is why you do see the market for these area based (SIC, EC) cotton producers. Also SIC has noticably more protections, although the Egyptian government does have their cotton logo.
     


  11. Prof. B. Bear

    Prof. B. Bear Senior member

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    Patch pockets on a staple navy work suit? yay or nay?
     


  12. Windowpane1967

    Windowpane1967 Senior member

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    Nay. Patch pockets look great, but will be a passing fad I think. Id have thought navy suit for work, stick to the classic design features. Just a thought.
     


  13. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Well, I don't think that patch pockets are a passing fad, as they've been around for a very long time.

    However, with regard to patch pockets on a work suit, I would agree that it's quite a fad at present, just as having a ticket pocket was a few years back.
     


  14. charliechan

    charliechan Senior member

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    I wonder what is 'basic'? Both my PJ suits have been $1500, not that I'm complaining at all but wondering what I ordered to pay that bit extra.. won't stop me from going back though haha, already feel like booking in another appointment [​IMG]

    Fabrics were Dugdale & Ariston.
     


  15. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Senior member

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    Don't quite agree that it's a fad.

    Suits with patch pockets have been around for a looooong time (check out voxsartoria's blog for its excellent pictorial history, which shows quite clearly how classic style never really changes).

    That said, they are casual suits and may be inappropriate in some of the more anal-retentive organisations (UBS for instance) where senior managers notice such details.

    I have one suit with 3 patch pockets and wear it on Fridays and Sundays (for Church) with Shantung and knit ties. Of course, my company's philosophy is simply this: if you wear a suit, you're dressed up... and WTF are patch pockets?

    I would not pull the trigger unless you already have navy and grey staples (welted breast pocket; flapped and welted hip pockets).
     


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