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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I spent a while typing up a response about "Egyptian cotton" shirting last night, only for it to disappear when I tried to post it and I now see that fxh, Plestor and others have chimed in with thoughts in the meantime.

    Essentially, I agree with what has already been said - just because a shirt is supposedly made from Egyptian cotton does not mean that the cotton was grown in Egypt, nor that it is any more special than other cotton shirts.

    Nor is a shirt made from 2 x 100s cloth guaranteed to be good, just as a suit made from "Super 180s" cloth is not necessarily going to be a great suit - even amongst cloth of the same thread count, there are variations in quality, heft and general feel. This is at least partially due to the weave of the cloth - is the shirt made from a twill, from a poplin, from a pinpoint oxford, a royal oxford, a plain oxford or some other weave?

    Also, just like "Super" numbers and suit fabric, just because a shirting fabric has a higher number, doesn't mean that it is a better choice. Higher thread count numbers can sometimes mean that a fabric is too sheer, too prone to crumpling, and difficult to iron, just like a suit fabric with a high "Super" number can crease and crumple badly, and wear out quickly as it is fragile.

    Ultimately, pretty much any cloth from a reputable shirting cloth manufacturer such as Acorn, Albini, Sic TESS, Grandi & Rubinelli or Thomas Mason will be good, and it then depends on your own preferences as to whether you prefer a shirt made from poplin, twill or so on.

    With regard to Rhodes & Beckett, please don't get caught up in their backstory about two English adventurers who decided to set up a shirtmaking operation in Egypt in the 1800s, as it is an absolute load of cobblers. When the then-Harrolds Shirts turned in Rhodes & Beckett a few years back, they came up with a faux-backstory that suited their operation as (apparently) their shirts were made in Egypt. Rather amusingly, they then changed production to China a year or two later and when a friend of mine enquired as to why, he was told that it was because Chinese suppliers were more reliable than Egyptian suppliers.
     


  2. streetminimal

    streetminimal Senior member

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    cmon MJ Bale, get your stuff to Collins st ASAP
     


  3. Romp

    Romp Affiliate Vendor

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    Thanks - you should do a fit-pic collage ... line em up:)

    +1 for PJ. I think you can get by at c.$1300 for basic. Mine run at c.$1.5-2k depending on trimmings. I prefer the hand finishing and soft shoulders etc
     


  4. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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    I reckon the fit-pic collage sounds like a fair bit of work, not sure jaypee will necessarily be up for doing that. lol.

    Romp, do soft shoulders cost more for PJohnson or are all their cuts priced the same, and it's finishing that raises the price?
     


  5. Geoffrey Firmin

    Geoffrey Firmin Senior member

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  6. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Gents,

    Here are some belated pics from Friday.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Details:

    - Borrelli shirt;
    - Marinella tie;
    - Brioni jacket;
    - Kent Wang linen pocket square;
    - Deer Style trousers;
    - Marcoliani socks; and
    - Ferragamo Tramezza two-eyelet chukka boots.
     


  7. appolyon

    appolyon Senior member

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    When I had my stuff made soft shoulders were not extra but hand finishing was.
     


  8. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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    Thanks bro. How was trip?
     


  9. Romp

    Romp Affiliate Vendor

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    depends on the shoulder - i think the original soft shoulder is same price and the slightly ruffled (is it called neapolitean?) ones are more

    Also 1/4 lining is more, hand finishing, certain fabrics

    Im also not sure if lighter padding/canvassing is a general improvement he has made or an option

    I highly rate the hand-finish vs machine.
     


  10. appolyon

    appolyon Senior member

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  11. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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    Cool man. Are you scheduled to get more stuff made? I do remember you saying your proportions had changed after losing weight recently. Not a bad excuse to get a couple more jackets? ;)
     


  12. Romp

    Romp Affiliate Vendor

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    yeah im going to grab a suit or two this week.

    need a new navy suit.. its my worst fitting suit since shedding weight.

    want to find a navy fabric thats subtley more interesting

    soft shoulder, 2 button, flap/welt pockets, 1/2 lined (i want camo if they have it), hand finished, zip fly (buttons get annoying), kissing horn buttons, 2inch cuff
     


  13. tobiasj

    tobiasj Senior member

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    Anyone remember my friend, the one who was going to buy a Hugo Boss suit for his wedding for $1,400? Well he showed me his suit yesterday--navy cotton from MJ Bale for $1,000 less. It looked great. So happy :)

    MJ Bale are now my default suit recommendation. They really don't have much competition, imo...
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2012


  14. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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    3-roll-2?
     


  15. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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    Nice one man!
     


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