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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    DB, pass me a bucket, quick!
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013
  2. DartagnanRed

    DartagnanRed Senior member

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    Thoughts on new suit supply collection? Enormous amount of linen stuff. I personally like that (and think its a travesty that more linen isnt worn in aus) but I know many people dont like it, so it will be interesting to see how it goes down.
     
  3. charliechan

    charliechan Senior member

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    Brendon Julian is looking quite sharp, although I think his jacket is a little tight.
     
  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Rob sorry mate, it could just be my old school training but I have to disagree on this. Side bulge is better managed by a) less length, I.e the trousers falling in a straight line not bunching and b) having the right width at the ankle. Wider ankles and especially lighter drapier fabrics like some high super counts are a pain in the ass for this. On the other hand smaller widths can have the same affect, because again they can't fall over the shoe properly. Stiffer and heavier fabrics, mohairs and fresco for example don't tend to side bulge but of course they still need to be fitted properly. Either way, it's only natural that the front of the trouser will break the most, because it has the vamp of the shoe in the way to stop it falling straight like the back, so a slight angle can help. But as I said, not a hard and fast rule and not widely done anymore.

    At FJ's we had the contract to do the army dress/formal uniforms (mess kits etc) and some of the higher ranking guys would be absolute sticklers for a bit of angle, so they could have only the slightest or no break at the front, but the back still touched the shoe I.e avoiding the pee wee Herman look.

    Of course all of this is completely pedantic and 99.9% of the population wouldn't even notice it outside of Styleforum. But being pedantic was a trait drilled in to us at Fletcher Jones, you couldn't even fit trousers by yourself without being shadowed for a year by a senior fitter, coats 2 years.

    P.s sorry for the FXH length post (no offense FXH ha ha)
     
  5. Spinning

    Spinning Active Member

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    Do you guys have any reccs for a shoe cleaning kit?
    Or do you buy items individually?

    In any case suggestions of what and wear to buy are greatly appreciated! For black and brown leather.
     
  6. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Wow! Now that is big. I'd much rather watch an hour about that than the excriciating point-scoring on Q&A right now.
     
  7. Nolvadex

    Nolvadex Senior member

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    i cant say specifically, but its with the australian public service. kinda felt like the odd one out, since there was only 1 other guy in a suit out of 50 people
     
  8. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Regrettably, this is par for the course in the APS nowadays.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013
  9. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    Everyone knows you have to have a bit of angle on the hem! Not just the the 00.1%
     
  10. Prof. B. Bear

    Prof. B. Bear Senior member

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    All custom linen. RLPL tie.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    Nice tie P. Bear. Nice everything.

    You sure do like a low button stance.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013
  12. Prof. B. Bear

    Prof. B. Bear Senior member

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    Gotta be at the natural waist line. Being 6'1 with a long torso doesn't help.
     
  13. nabilmust

    nabilmust Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  14. nabilmust

    nabilmust Senior member

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    True that - you have an allowance of going 1 or 2 cm (0.5 - 1") above the belly button.

    Alternatively, with a long torso, you could try a 3-roll-2. Just that the roll has to be very well.. rolled.
     
  15. Geoffrey Firmin

    Geoffrey Firmin Senior member

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    Oreos?
     
  16. Romp

    Romp Senior member

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    Depends on the last that you get - take a look at the pictures of the meermin lasts

    thats ok- I have no training here, although i dont disagree with you - i just cbf writing as much as you did [​IMG]

    my original point was length and width in the hem to get the right break/no break/length.

    my second point was the hem line slope may be used to manage side bulge .. after of course reaching the correct length because you want to maintain a certain break/no break (i wouldnt assume you can achieve this at any length!!) i.e. a guy in the army may want the pants to just break the crease at the front but cover the leather of his boot at the back without a massive break causing the side to flare (especially on narrower pants) or equally have pants that look too short (especially on a wide opening)

    Either way if we are being technical arent these pants cuffed in which case I had always assumed these were to be cut straight (not to mention just being a botch job in the first place lol)
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013
  17. Romp

    Romp Senior member

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    Ive got this exact tie - in the reverse colours [​IMG]
     
  18. Manuhiri

    Manuhiri Well-Known Member

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    Melbourne
    Here's everything I reckon you need:

    Saphir gold medal line products:
    1 Renovator
    1 black wax polish
    1 black cream polish
    1 appropriate brown wax polish
    1 appropriate brown cream polish

    2 cloths or chamois. One to apply the renovator/polish with, One to buff the toe cap. (You can use a brush to apply the polish but I prefer using a cloth and working it into the leather in small circles.
    2 horsehair brushes to brush the polish off once it is dry. Use one for black and one for brown.

    1 wooden box to keep it all in.

    Very simple method that I use is:

    • brush dust and dirt off shoe
    • apply Renovator over the complete shoe. Wait five or ten minutes. Brush it off.
    • apply cream polish all over the shoe including toe cap. Wait five or ten minutes. Brush it off.
    • apply wax polish to the toe cap. Wait five or ten minutes. Brush it off. (Repeat this step as many times as you like depending on how deep a shine you are after).
    • buff toe cap with fresh cloth.

    If you want a mirror shine you can then wet a cloth and work it in small circles on the toe cap then finish it off with a buffing from a pair of nylon stockings.
     
    1 person likes this.
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