Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.
^^ True dat
I sent you a pm, but I'm planning on picking up the "Back to Work Special" from elitesuits.com (http://www.elitesuits.com/back-to-work-special-package-deal-bc-p-283.html) with the full canvas upgrade, as soon as I can scrape the cash together (stupid quarterly BAS payments). It comes with 2 suits, 2 extra pants, and 5 MTM shirts for $999.
I've got a pretty athletic build from doing weights for a few years, and I find that shirts in particular are hard to find that fit me well across the shoulders/chest and are narrow enough in the waist not to look too billowy. I've bought a few now from www.moderntailor.com, and I'll never go back to an off-the-rack shirt. I haven't tried elitesuits shirts yet, so I can't give you a personal recommendation on them, but from my discussions with the guy that runs it, it sounds pretty good.
No affiliation with either of those places whatsoever btw, just to make that clear.
So what suits and shirts are you planning to get?
I don't fault your logic, but my personal experience has been somewhat different from your timeline. When I was starting out I was all about the "brown shoe craziness" and mad wide ties and loud checks. That was my young bloke wardrobe. Experiemental. Deviant maybe. It's only in my old age I've started dressing more like an old bloke because that's what's expected... solid suits, black captoes, etc.
Scratch that, I don't own any plain suits or black captoes.
After reading this I was reminded of The Suit by Nicholas Antongiavanni
This reminds me of:
Sheryl: [to Frank] He started snorting heroin.
Frank: [to Grandpa] You started snorting heroin?
Grandpa: [in response to Frank, aimed at Dwayne] Let me tell ya, don't do that stuff. When you're young, you're crazy to do that shit.
Frank: [to Grandpa] Well what about you?
Grandpa: [to Frank] What about me? I'm old. When you're old you're crazy not to do it.
Heroin = patch pockets
Little Miss Sunshine.
What a film!
Another non-average build here (42R shoulders, 38R chest with a 30" waist and 25.5" quads from squatting); I'd give a +1 to online MTM. However if you haven't owned a suit before I'd suggest against it as you have to ensure that your measurements are VERY, VERY accurate and that little details are included. If you are tall, you'll need to lower the button stance, but by how much you wont really know. Same goes for overall length etc.
Go try on some MJ Bale suits etc. Get a feel for what you like from each suit and combine that into an MTM. (EG - do you prefer a low or high button stance, prefer peak or notch lapels? etc etc).
Nice proportions, Prof. How tall are you?
The "Beijing Collection" full-canvas in a navy and charcoal. I've got a navy suit, but it was a cheapy from my Uni days, and it's nearing the end of its lifespan I think. My only other (wearable) suit is a mid-grey. I've got another navy one, the condition isn't too bad, but the fit is terrible, beyond any hope of being tailored to look decent. I'll go for single breasted, notch lapel, slim, side vents, and the shoulders as soft as I can get.
I'm not sure whether pants should be cuffs or not, and pleats or not. Advice?
The shirts either cutaway or classic collar, button sleeves, slim fit, blue/pale blue/blue & white stripe/gingham. That's what I've got planned at the moment, anyway.
I'm in a similar position to Oli, I'm a barrister (went straight to the bar from admission) 12 months in, and I'm still building up a business wardrobe, and obviously cash flow is an issue, as well as the fact that I live in Tasmania, so it's pretty much impossible to find anything reasonable(y priced).
edit: I've suffered a lot over the year from buying UNBELIEVABLY poor fitting clothes sold to me because obviously the salesperson either had no idea, or just didn't care enough to point it out. I'm in the process of remedying my knowledge now, and SF (and this thread) has been a great help.
6'1. Need to work on the thickness of my chest and arms (only 14.75" atm)
Sounds good - I would suggest no pleats (in case they aren't done well) but cuffs are up to you. I like them but I think trousers look fine without them as well.
I'm sure others will weigh in soon with some good advice.
id sway away from pleats unless you are a solid bloke for a couple reasons 1) pleats can look good if tailored well (ambrosi pants come to mind) but make u look big in the hips/front thighs if done poorly and can make a cheap suit look less "fashionable" 2) young guys wear flat fronts and i think its good to remain relevant to the time/situation
cuffs are personal. I prefer them but i have suits without as well. If u get cuffs you perhaps want to take the opening in half an inch or so as cuffs on wider leg pants look a bit bottom heavy imo
do you wear ties? i stil think you cant go wrong with a nice plain white shirt
I've got 3 plain white shirts that fit pretty well now. Two from TM Lewin with cutaway collars and a moderntailor.com one with classic. All have french cuffs though, which I regret a bit, I'm definitely going to steer away from FC's from now on I think. The TM Lewin are "White plain 2-fold poplin windsor slim fit couble cuff" and "White luxury herringbone windsor slim fit double cuff". The modern tailor is just a plain white unpatterned cloth. I also have two buttondown collars from moderntailor.com that I love, a pale blue oxford cotton, and a white/blue vertical stripes, both with classic collars and button cuffs.
I also have 2 white shirts (and a couple of others) from Distino in Melbourne, but unfortunately the sleeves are too short and the waist is way too big.
I wear ties whenever I wear a suit basically. 6 from www.thetiebar.com, a couple of Distino's (one 7-fold), and a couple of other just random ones, including a mountain and sprackett spruce pink cotton, and a plain navy slim (that I got from moderntailor.com).
p.s. thanks for the advice, greatly appreciated
p.p.s I've browsed with great envy your shirts a number of times now. I'm trying very hard to prioritise my spending, because I'm saving for a trip to Mexico/Cuba in Feb, but one day...
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