Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.
Not a problem Gez.
Some nice building shots on your tumblr btw.
Sad day today. One of my favourite suits (and the third 'proper suit' I ever bought) bit the dust today. My flannel chalkstripe suit from Azzaro ripped in the crotch. The holes are fairly big, and I doubt it can be repaired. I put this down to
a) Me being slightly too fat when I first bought it and it needed to be let out. Even then there was quite a bit of thigh chafing. I've subsequently lost a fair bit of weight and fit around my thighs and bum is a lot better, but I suppose the damage was done.
b) The nature of the fabric. It was soft and luxurious..but evidently didn't wear well.
Oh well...thankfully that 2nd-hand Canali corduroy suit I grabbed off eBay a few months ago can fill the breach so I still have two 'winter' suits.
The shipping costs from STP seem to be ridiclous every time I've checked...
Sad story. What was the brand/cost? Hopefully being from Azzarro it wasn't too much... How many wears do you think you got out of it?
I've always thought it would be interesting to, over a period of years, track the cost of buying & altering/maintaining your purchases against days of actual wear you get out of them, with the end goal of getting an average figure of "how much your clothes cost you per day on average" or "this piece of clothing cost me $X per wear I got out of it".
I've thought about it myself and I think the end result would be quite scary...
I think we spend more than we think (e.g. cost of a suit isn't just the suit itself but tailoring, dry cleaning etc, shoes have the added cost of shipping/returns, topying, shoe care etc) and probably end up wearing things less than we had hoped (due to changes in style, weight, job, location etc.). Some costs are of course redeemed through onselling but not all.
So let's say for example you work a 48 weeks year over 2 years ie roughly 250 business days per year with what I would say would be a reasonably conservative wardrobe for an SF member of
3 x P Johnson suits $5000 (total cost)
3 x shoes $1200
8 x ties $560
8 x socks $100
10 x shirts $1000
1 x coat $500
=$8360/500 days of wear
~$16 per day over that 2 years.
The above doesn’t factor in extras like odd trousers, pocket squares, more pairs of shoes sport coats, casual friday/weekend gear etc… And I think I have been fairly circumspect on the cost of some items given what some members here can afford
Now I'm sure there are plenty of flaws with all that, and of course some of the stuff will last you much longer than two years but it's still scary stuff.
It was a Cantarelli. I bought it in early June 2010 for $650. Since then I wore it once a week for about half the year (i.e. colder months from April to September). Although I sometimes wore it in February or November if the temperature was 14 degrees!
I would have liked to have gotten a few more years out of it, but I"ll put this one down to experience (i.e. don't expect a soft flannel fabric to wear well in the crotch). If Azzaro can order a swatch in of the same fabric I'll investigate a repair job vs cost of a new suit.
Of course, the jacket is still in perfect condition. Not sure I can turn it into a sports jacket though.
Another rant. My sartorially-challenged mate who works in a hedge fund was shopping for white T-shirts at lunch time. I asked him why..and he said "to wear under my shirts in the office".
Apparently this is quite a common thing for his colleagues to wear a suit with an open-necked shirt...with a visible white T-shirt underneath. I made the comment that I stopped wearing T-shirts underneath shirts when I went to High School.
I asked my wife about this, and she said several of the younger men in her office (she's a big city Lawyer) do this as well.
The finance nerd in me does take this view when making 'big ticket' purchases. But I would amortise the costs over a period longer then 2 years, especially for items like suits and ties (and maybe even shoes if you have a pair for each day of the week).
If my C&J shoes lasted only two years I'd hit the roof!
Agreed shoes should always last longer, and probably suits too, but then there are also inevitable casualties such as the tie you get a stain on, or a shoe that gets irrevocably scuffed, the umbrella you lose, the suit that's ripped beyond repair as with PG (which by my estimation would've been about a $13 per wear purchase and that's assuming he didn't get it tailored...).
A lot of people justify buying things by saying "oh it's a lifetime purchase/will last me 10 years" but for those of you who are old enough how many items do you actually own & wear that are 4 or more years old?
I really think a lot of us are spending $20 a day or more on clothes... it just doesn't seem that was because we are making infrequent (albeit costly) purchases.
Puts into focus the need to buy clothes that will last you at least 3 years quality/fashion wise.
Country Road vint style sneakers x2 - 2007
Sportscraft merino vneck vest - 2003
Uniqlo boxer briefs x 10 - 2008
Crocodile merino scarf - 2001
Crocodile merino vneck jumper - 2001
Black leather belt x2 - 2008
White singlets x8 - 2008
Family Guy tshirt - 2007
Titoni wristwatch - 195X
Mickey Mouse bed sheets - 1999
Fair enough, I meant more in the business wear category though. None of those strike me as being particularly expensive purchases.
I have a crocodile denim shirt that was thrifted. always wondered where this brand originated from? are they still in business?
I find this hard to fathom to be honest you would think with the publicity surrounding the renaissance of mens fashion fashion these past few years, P Johnson being a case in point who has a very high public profile. He would be aiming to produce a product for a defined market segment. I just don't get it and I have to admit that for the price I don't think I have ever seen anyone wearing them in public. Strikes me as such a waste of talent or are his bespoke shoes better than the RTW? Anyone know or care to hazard an opinion?
God spare us.
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