Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.
yeah pitti is great id highly recommend going. We went in January hence found some great craftsmen!
Found this on voxsartoria.com.
The close community of the journeyman tailor was forged through generations of hardship, of long hours, miserable pay and discrimination of all kinds. Taking refuge among themselves, the tailors developed a private language almost incomprehensible to outsiders. Some of their expressions have survive in the daily dialogue of the tailor and his guv’nor.
— Richard Walker, The Savile Row Story: An Illustrated History
Balloon…having a balloon - a week without work or pay.
Bodger - Crude worker. Common to other trades.
Boot - loan until payday. Can you spare the boot? - can you give me a loan? Dates from crossed-leg days, when a tailor recorded the loan by chalking it on the sole of his boot.
Bunce - a trade perk, like mungo and a crib (see below).
Bushelman - Journeyman who alters or repairs.
Cat’s face - a small shop opened by a cutter starting out on his own.
Chuck a dummy - to faint. Allusion is to a tailor’s dummy tumbling over.
Clapham Junction - a paper design draft with numerous alterations or additions.
Codger - Tailor who does up old suits.
Cork - the boss.
Crib - large scrap of cloth left over from a job, usually enough to make a pair of trousers or a skirt.
Crushed beetles - badly made button holes.
Cutting turf - clumsy, unskilled working.
Doctor - alteration tailor.
Drag…in the drag - working behind time.
Drummer - trouser-maker.
Have you been on the board? - are you experienced?
Hip stay - old-time name for wife.
Jeff - a small master: one who cuts out his garments and also makes them up.
Kicking - looking for another job.
Kicking your heels - no work to do.
Kill - a spoiled job that has to be thrown away.
Kipper - A tailoress. So called because they sought work in pairs to avoid unwelcome advances.
Log…on the log - piecework: the traditional and complex system of paying out-workers.
Mungo - cloth cuttings, which by custom the tailor used to retain to sell to a rag merchant for a little extra income.
On the cod - gone drinking.
Pig - an unclaimed garment.
Pigged - a lapel which turns up after some wear.
Pinked…pink a job - making with extra care.
Skiffle - a job needed in a hurry.
Skipping it - making the stitches too big
Small seams - warning call when someone being discussed enters workroom.
Soft sew - an easily worked cloth.
Tab - fussy, difficult customer.
Trotter - fetcher and carrier: messenger.
Tweed merchant - Tailor who does the easy work: a poor workman.
Whipping the cat - Travelling round and working in private houses: common practice in old days when a tailor would be given board and lodging while he made clothes for a family
I'm thinking perhaps now we will have a couple of Aussie vendors on board that it' time to look at organising an official SF get together in Sydney or Melbourne, that us affiliates could co-ordinate a kind of a trunk show with. Not sure what CK is planning as far as affiliate status when he launches but 2 of us is a good start (if Rob is keen to obviously).
I know that SF will help pay for venues etc for official SF events, so I might send an email off in the next few days to them and see what they say, if there is a possibility of it happening $$ wise I'll let everyone know then start to gauge some interest off you guys.
Maybe someone on here knows a venue where they'd give us a space for free to check out the merch and we could all buy some beers while standing around preening.
Just ordered the parts, will post pics & update when they arrive. As someone else said, can get the natural leather blanks a fair bit cheaper from http://www.leffleronline.com.au/webstore/index.wsp.
Don't they sell full grain belts for $20 from Vic Market anyway? But then again it's fun making your own stuff.
That's the main reason I'm doing it
wow that's cool - the article belt looks just like one of my il bisonte belts .. id leave it natural and build the patina!
Lots of function rooms in Melbourne will give you the space free, just have a minimum purchase charge that goes along with it for catering, probably starting around $1k for small spaces.
Or just squat on someones CBD balcony.
Looking through some CAE short courses. Shoe making course sounds interesting. $470 for beginners class.
Ill be curious to see how yours turns out
regarding the website how did you choose your belt? I dont see any pics in the belt section.
I ordered mine from the website listed in the article (tandy leather or something?) before I found Leffler's. Just search for natural belt's and they will come up. Afaik they are all the same colour, just come in different widths/lengths, and you can purchase die to colour it.
I've got a pair of lightly used brown Loake Blackfriars (http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/5003.php) in UK9 that I'm selling for my brother. Let's say $150 ish plus shipping.
PM me if interested and I'll send pics.
Sorry for the spam!
so sad. if this was size 8 UK i'd be all over it :'(
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