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RGLZ

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Thanks all, this has been hugely helpful. I also cross-posted to the cashmere thread, and did some digging online too.

The conclusion I drew is that what I got was sub-standard, either because of short fibres and/or possibly being washed too hot or for too long in the finishing stages.

Happily, I emailed the company (Alex Mill instead of Mr Porter), they said that this was unusual (likely bullshit) but offered me a return label and store credit which suits me fine as I live in their tshirts for summer.

Knitwear has always been a pain for me because my build is such that the smallest size of many traditional labels are too big for me. I’ve had luck with Smedley in the past, although they can be a bit fragile, and with Drake’s, which cost a packet. My best buys, by far, have been house label made in Japan knits from United Arrows, which are coming up on 10 years with few signs of wear.

I have gotten my hands on on of these, which feels promising: https://clothbase.com/items/3ef7b172_l-e-j-cashmere-mock-neck-sweater-blue_l-e-j

I had never heard of the label, but it’s made in Scotland, and the guy that runs it is ex-Drake’s, so hopefully using one of their makers. Will report back.

Cheers again for the input!
We should talk, I manage Gran Sasso knitwear across Australia and New Zealand which I think is up there with the best. Value is hard to beat.
 

Scuppers

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We should talk, I manage Gran Sasso knitwear across Australia and New Zealand which I think is up there with the best. Value is hard to beat.
I just picked up a Gran Sasso knit from Henry Bucks, wool/cashmere blend. Was quite chuffed with it. Having previous only bought polo tops for summer (which GS is my favourite brand for polos).
So, lets talk discounts! ;)
 

The False Prophet

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We should talk, I manage Gran Sasso knitwear across Australia and New Zealand which I think is up there with the best. Value is hard to beat.

We definitely should talk...I've liked everything I've seen although my size isn't in stores much.

I just picked up a Gran Sasso knit from Henry Bucks, wool/cashmere blend. Was quite chuffed with it. Having previous only bought polo tops for summer (which GS is my favourite brand for polos).
So, lets talk discounts! ;)

I just can't do Buck's anymore. The pushy staff are now seemingly in the majority, and I really can't get them to back off without being quite confrontational so I've stopped going there. Shame, really.
 

Scuppers

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I just can't do Buck's anymore. The pushy staff are now seemingly in the majority, and I really can't get them to back off without being quite confrontational so I've stopped going there. Shame, really.
There is one nice sale person, think his name is Peter/Paul?, silver haired, seldom there. But quite agree, no longer an enjoyable shopping experience -Ari years aside. Also, they have polluted the store with the Henry/Henry Satorial lines.
 

The False Prophet

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I had a flash of inspiration this morning apropos my dilemma about cuffing chinos. If I can get button cuffs added, this will suit loafers, but then they can be unbuttoned and rolled up more loosely for sneakers.

Which brings me to my question: does anyone have a tailor that does button cuffs? I can't imagine they're hard, but I'd prefer to use someone who's done it before.
 

storm_will_pass

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Hey all
Are there any recommendations for a tailor and cobbler in the Melbourne region who are trusted to work on more high end pieces?
 

The False Prophet

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Hey all
Are there any recommendations for a tailor and cobbler in the Melbourne region who are trusted to work on more high end pieces?

Evans Leather in the city are good, but expensive. Manfred's Shoe Lounge in North Melbourne gets a great rap although I've never used them.

In terms of tailors, I've always used Mila at Magik Alterations. She is no longer in the conservative business dress but apparently works from home. If you search this thread, I think you should be able to find contact details.
 

sensuki

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I have Mila's contact details if you need them

There's also Jose Zarpan as well, in the Nicholas building
 

ColdEyedPugilist

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We should talk, I manage Gran Sasso knitwear across Australia and New Zealand which I think is up there with the best. Value is hard to beat.
Love Gran Sasso! I have a few knits from them!
 

ColdEyedPugilist

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I had a flash of inspiration this morning apropos my dilemma about cuffing chinos. If I can get button cuffs added, this will suit loafers, but then they can be unbuttoned and rolled up more loosely for sneakers.

Which brings me to my question: does anyone have a tailor that does button cuffs? I can't imagine they're hard, but I'd prefer to use someone who's done it before.
Might not be what you’re looking for, but button cuffs is - surprisingly - an option on SuitSupply custom trousers. No extra charge.

For future reference.
 

ColdEyedPugilist

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Pulled out a cashmere draw, rather mixed bunch as it turned out. From Theory to BC, interestingly RLPL is a star and a shame. The RJPL cable is one of the worst pilers I own. yet, the roll neck of some 20 years is flawless. Theory is rubbish, no redemption. Cream Polo RL (15 years old, I think) holds up far better than contemporary Polo. Medium blue sweater by Brioni, not a piler, but the worst fluff bucket of the lot. Navy sweater by Rubinacci holds up rather well, little piling and a little fluffy. BC sweaters, not sure how old these 2 are, but only the most minor piling under he arms, similar story across BC. Last but by no means least, Dior hooded sweater of which i wear near daily while walking, near zero piling in stress points. An actual stand out.
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Anyway, to the question: it is a case of thread length, the shorter the thread the greater the piling and the shorter the garment life, I believe.
Modern RL wool cashmere pils like crazy! Even if you don’t move. Or breathe.
 

Scuppers

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Modern RL wool cashmere pils like crazy! Even if you don’t move. Or breathe.
Last season I bought some cashmere and some lambs wool sweaters there, this experience has put an end to my RL relationship. The piling on the cashmere is as you say, but the horror was how much the lambs wool piles, too.
 

Scuppers

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Evans Leather in the city are good, but expensive. Manfred's Shoe Lounge in North Melbourne gets a great rap although I've never used them.
Thanks for the Evans mention. Have an appointment to take in a couple of pairs of Lobbs that need attention. Will see how they do.
Manfreds have done good work - would recommend, but North Melbourne just isn’t as convenient as Royal Arcade.
 

The False Prophet

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Might not be what you’re looking for, but button cuffs is - surprisingly - an option on SuitSupply custom trousers. No extra charge.

I have been thinking about getting some cotton trousers made that are on the dressier side - could be a winner.

Thanks for the Evans mention. Have an appointment to take in a couple of pairs of Lobbs that need attention. Will see how they do.
Manfreds have done good work - would recommend, but North Melbourne just isn’t as convenient as Royal Arcade.

Manfred is the guy for resoling, as far as I can tell. But Evans do beautiful sole guards: they use a high quality Topy-like product from Vibram and bevel the edges so it's not as obvious. Countersunk toe plates too (although I've had nails pop out sometimes).

I am looking at Edward Green for my next dress shoes, and rather than the factory leather-atop-rubber sole option, I think that I might get full leather and then have Evans add the Vibram layer. Easier and quicker to have replaced without sending overseas.
 

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