Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Foxhound, Feb 10, 2016.
chasing a new card holder as a daily driver, what's everyone using at the moment?
Sam has a shop in the NAB building opposite the Anz campus on Collins, served by tram from Southern Cross.
Think Katrinas has moved. I liked Sam as he didn't argue about the length I wanted, the staff at Katrinas wanted me to leave my sleeve longer than I'd have liked....
Maybe a little short on the sleeves? I'd send it back for a quick alteration, you'll have it back in time for AW19.
It's all good, probably fine, if anything short on the length...but as I've said before all this alteration advice is often bizarre on this forum. Go to the mainstream classic forum and there are people with great looking jackets which fit and wear fine, looking great is better than a perfect fit whatever that is.
Then an expert comes along and says that there is a pile of fabric here, a tuck required here, a stance problem there. Everyone it seems has a dropped shoulder (it's awfully borderline occasionally!) I can make my jackets fit better just by sucking in my stomach and raising my chin...and when you had that jacket altered, did you adopt robo pose or not! Remember to adopt robo pose when walking down the street... ;-)
Riders are short so you can sit down with them on.
I use a La Portegna cardholder i got from nomanwalksalone. Fits a fair few cards with a central note pocket - it's stretched out with use and developed a patina (sweat stains)
I had a similar experience at Katrina's, I was game enough to ask the bloke to see what he thought should be done - he pinned my jacket just about everywhere and made me look like a pig in blanket. Had to insist I wanted to be able to move. Thanks for the suggestion, will give Sam in Docklands a go. As an aside, has anyone used "Sam the Tailor"?
I'd prefer my leather jackets to be a touch short as you have, FH.. maybe a touch longer in sleeve length on your jacket (knowing you have long long arms). the only accessory you're missing is a cafe racer.
Agree with Pete's point in that its easy to nit pick a fit to death, that said sleeve length in the pic looks a tad short, although prob a solid length to show some cuff if you rock a long sleeve shirt.
As a fully paid up iGent I like cuff to show and have to wrestle with alterers to get enough to show. My experience was that sleeves seem to come back longer (did the seamstress automatically add 1/4 inch from pinned length to safe guard against customer disappointment and disaster?!) I've had 1 jacket go back 3 times, twice to Katrinas. The first attempt was when I just left an alterer do it his way: result was way too long. So my problem with Katrinas was the opposite. With Sam he did actually shrug and say too short but did agree to do it my way. Result was about right...
I always use a favoured shirt for reference but I could agonise about that too. I've settled with the conclusion that we worry about it too much, really a fraction needs to show on average, depending on our current stance....How many of us fiddle with cuffs just so before taking a fit picture just so that we can revel in fit glory?!!!
I'm pretty happy with katrinas, as mentioned above the suggested lengths weren't to my liking but they happily made them as requested.
Nailed the trouser alterations first time but had to send the jacket back. Quick turn around, didn't debate the bits I wasn't happy with.
Cost wise though for suit alterations were on the high side. Individual pieces seem fairly priced.
I've never used Katrina's but I know many here who have and a few women who originally put me on to them. The "original" Katrina's was Kim & her husband, forget his name, up off Bourke St in a lane just around from American Tailors. They sold it at one stage. But reports were still ok. Its now (well the name) shifted to Flinders Lane between Elizabeth & Queen. Its also called/associated with Berenson Tailors which offers MTM suits etc. I don't know the full story but I can get the good oil tomorrow from one of the women. I have used Sam @docklands. Sam is a proper tailor, possibly the youngest proper tailor in Melbourne. He knows his tailoring - men's & women's . He's not the cheapest but he does do hemming only for $15 I think. (Footscray, Dandenong, Springvale you can get good hemming for $12) Proper alterations at Sam's cost proper money. I'm not sure I'd take style advice from him. So its the same as ever, how to get what you want from a tailor without micro managing and pissing off the craftsman. Knowing when to listen to advice and when to push or pull back a bit.
Much obliged @eightace - more intrigued by his status as an agent for footwear manufacturers in Japan.
Does anybody have details about that side of his operation? Personal buyer's experience?
I've only used Katrinas on Bourke when they were close to American Tailors.
When people get a sleeve length back, (too long), are Katrinas or anyone charging for the correction, on the basis you're paying for the alteration 'as pinned'?
Both Sam and Katrinas have a back room with machinists I'd be more interested in their skills than front of house...
Pretty sure that @Petepan , @ColdEyedPugilist , @wurger and one or two others have purchased made-to-order shoes through Kazuna.
I think that Kazuna's shoes are made by Miyagi Kogyo:
Separate names with a comma.