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Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll get what this is all about.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Foxhound, Feb 10, 2016.

  1. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Distinguished Member

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    Interested and slightly alarmed to read comments above, on the apparently poor quality of St Crispin's shoe leathers. I don't know much about the brand, other than that they are expensive - even more expensive than Edward Green, it seems.

    How could it be that a brand with such steep pricing could be having problems with its leathers?

    For what it's worth, I read through quite a few pages of the StC thread and couldn't find any disparaging comments.
     


  2. Article 26

    Article 26 Senior Member

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    Would like to make it clear, I don’t hate the brand just don’t respect the product. I considered StC commissions before being talked out of it by DM.

    Reason for the pricing: they are practically a bespoke operator that offer a very labour intensive product at Eastern European pricing - shoes would otherwise be 4-5k. Apparently (and this all paraphrased conversations), they have a lot of rejected product. Actually, one of the staff at DM owns a pair of loafers in Parisan calf which tore slightly (had to argue for repairs).
    Reason for the leather quality is that they are simply not a large enough operation to secure access to the top tanneries or have purchase dominence.

    I’m sure most people that buy StC aren’t as fussy as me and will love them.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018


  3. Terminator

    Terminator Senior Member

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    I’m also reading all this with a lot of interest as one of my friends here in Zurich is in the middle of making arrangements to see Philip Carr in Vienna to get a personal last made. I was going to join him, as I’m a big fan of their aesthetic, and having my own last made is attractive as I have quite hard to fit feet (narrow heel, flat foot, splayed toes). I also haven’t seen too many negative comments in the St C thread, which I follow. However, I might need to dig a bit deeper. Thanks for bringing this up.
     


  4. The J

    The J Senior Member

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    I went about 100 pages back in the thread, there are a few complains here and there but more on their russian calf which requires more care and attention. Which leather were you thinking to get made up?
     


  5. Terminator

    Terminator Senior Member

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    @The J Russian calf! Just had coffee with said friend, mentioned this debate and he did say that he’d heard complaints about the Russian calf (which were countered by Skoak), but that’s about it. He also said that he mentioned this to Ethan when he was in Bryceland’s a couple of months ago, but Ethan spoke very highly of the product (as you would expect), and pointed him in the direction of Mr Carr.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018


  6. Terminator

    Terminator Senior Member

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    If I do go the St C route, I’ll probably end up buying a pair a year for a few years. Not all will be Russian calf, but I think a split toe derby in RC would be my first pair.
     


  7. Ting

    Ting New Member

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    Hi all, I'm new to classic menswear and have been reading a fair bit on styleforum in the past 6 months. I am looking to buy a pair of suede dress shoes and was wondering whether there are differences in suede quality used in main/benchgrade vs quality/handgrade lines of the same shoemaker.

    For example, will a Crockett and Jones handgrade Lonsdale use better suede than a benchgrade Hallam? I understand that handgrade calf leather shoes use a better/younger calf leather and more layers of antique, both of which I assume does not benefit suede.

    What about other shoemakers? Does the quality of suede vary between their shoe lines, or are they typically the same?

    Cheers
     


  8. Terminator

    Terminator Senior Member

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    Hi, and welcome! I’m certainly no expert but I’ve previously read that the quality of suede doesn’t change as much as the quality of calf leather. You could always email someone like C&J or Double Monk (or both) and ask?
     


  9. Terminator

    Terminator Senior Member

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    Does anyone have experience with the B&Tailor safari jackets? The measurements on Chad Prom seem large to size, which is counter intuitive to all my previous experience with Asian brands. Is there a Melbourne stockist?
     


  10. wurger

    wurger Distinguished Member

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    as for C&J suedes, they will be very similar in quality.
     


  11. Ting

    Ting New Member

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    Thanks for the help
     


  12. Article 26

    Article 26 Senior Member

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    There does exist a gap in quality, however, visually most wouldn’t notice. When you handle the suede you become able to grade it.
    This is a selection of suede I own, each from a different British maker, other than recognising the shoe I doubt people could visually grade it bar one of the pairs (to me, stands out as rough).
    47D09B78-F2CB-4465-8C6B-76681D686D38.jpeg
     


  13. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Distinguished Member

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    If you are looking to get your first good quality pair of shoes (or suede shoes) please, please do not get hung up on this. Any C&J (or Carmina etc) will be very good quality from what you are looking it.

    Maybe after a few pairs you can talk about St Crispin's Reindeer Calf...but for now, just enjoy some good shoes.

    PS Very surprised by the comments on StC given the reports from Permanent Style, Armoury, Ethan at Brycelands and more. I have my hesitances on Double Monk. Chris always struck me as a very nice guy but the rest I found to be a bit...stand offish might be the right word...and I also feel the business could be some much more than the "elite members club exclusive" vibe it has sometimes...
     


  14. The J

    The J Senior Member

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    Agreeable in regards to DM.
     


  15. Journeyman

    Journeyman Distinguished Member

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    I've never held or worn a pair of St Crispin's, so I can't comment on quality.

    However, having owned and worn pairs by John Lobb Paris, Berluti, Edward Green, Vass, Santoni FAM and some other high-end makers, I've decided that the additional cost over makers such as C&J and Carmina is not worth it.

    That, of course, is a purely subjective judgement on my part. Certainly, the shoes are lovely, but I've decided that I'm content with C&J, Carmina and similar.

    It's the same with watches. I have a friend who has a PP Nautilus and a few other, similarly priced watches and they are very nice - but I simply can't justify the opportunity cost. I'd rather put my money towards mortgage, superannuation, travel with family, children's education and so on.
     


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