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Journeyman

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I have English wool/mohair - it's a pretty "wilful" fabric (if you catch my drift). Certainly not as wrinkle-resistant as fresco but whenever I wear it it tends to wear quite hardy whilst allowing for decent ventilation.

That said I've had trou made in linen and while they DO absorb moisture they also wear extremely cool. I've certainly never sweated buckets in them (despite usage in the midst of typhoon season here in HK).

Interesting - I've found mohair-blend suits to be the most wrinkle-resistant of all my suits. Fresco tends to wrinkle more but the wrinkles also tend to fall out reasonably well if I let the suit hang for a while.

I had a three-piece, cream linen suit while I was at university, and it got a lot of wear at dance parties and various clubs, worn with an off-white silk shirt and an embroidered silk tie in brown Japanese silk. It wasn't overly hot, although it used to get pretty sweaty when I was dancing. Having said that, though, the trousers used to wrinkle terribly and they got pretty baggy around the knees after a while.

Did you get a wicked curry rice at Chung King mansion?

How nostalgic - I stayed in Chungking Mansions the first time I visited Hong Kong!
 

Petepan

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I have lived in both SG and HK.

HK used to be the more flamboyant of the duo. Free-wheeling city of grime, rough and tumble, with the denizens' eyes alight with a gleam of being present and alive in a fast moving dynamic environment with lots of threats and opportunities galore. HK was the Fonz of Happy Days.

In comparison, SG is the dull sterile Richie Cunningham with buttoned up short sleeves, toeing the line, reading the manual and getting to the church on time.

Fast forward to present, Richie is now fully matured doing his thing, whilst the Fonz is getting old and tired with a beer belly.
 

Geoffrey Firmin

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I had a three-piece, cream linen suit while I was at university, and it got a lot of wear at dance parties and various clubs, worn with an off-white silk shirt and an embroidered silk tie in brown Japanese silk.
Was this during your Tom Wolfe phase JM.
 

Liber

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Hi guys,

I’m new here and just want to let you know that I’m selling a almost new pair of Common Projects Achille Low Grey Gummy in size 6UK - 40EU, ordered at endclothing.
Worn 3 times, they are too small for me.
I have a pair of Achille retro size 7UK (which are a biit too large) and I didn’t know that the sizing is different, so I just ordered the Achille low in 6 which was a mistake because now I can’t wear them without getting blisters...
So it’s a pain to sell them but if somebody else can get happy with them I’ll be glad .
For information my normal sizing is 42,5 with Nike, 8UK with Carmina and 7UK with the Achille low.
The price is 400AUD and I’m in Sydney so let me know if you’re interested.
Nice try @Foxhound
 

Styleternity

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Suitsupply has a new campaign for their more premium Jort RTW collection - "Revenge of the Yuppies". Not entirely sure that I feel it's in good taste - even if admittedly ironic.

Also - I asked this over at the Eidos thread but met with no comment - can anyone speak to the quality of Eidos dress shirts? Reportedly they're made in the same factory as Liverano's rtw shirting. Or have I gotten my manufacturers mixed up?
 
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melbournites

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Also - I asked this over at the Eidos thread but met with no comment - can anyone speak to the quality of Eidos dress shirts? Reportedly they're made in the same factory as Liverano's rtw shirting. Or have I gotten my manufacturers mixed up?

Dress shirts have been our most consistent and most ignored category. Sadly, this means they're basically dead in the water in the US - I don't think anyone picked them up for this fall outside of Marcus. There's a good assortment of them in the sample sale that got bounced from Barney's because we missed their delivery window. I believe they are priced at 125 each or 5 for 500.

The details on them:

They're all hand cut and produced in the Isaia factory at Casalnuovo by the same people that make Isaia's shirts (If you look at Mitch's photos, you can see how fine the single needle work is). As with everything we try to do with EIDOS, there's a focus on softness of construction which means no fusible anywhere on the shirt. Up until this season, all the collars were completely unlined but this spring's iterations have a non-fused interlining (Isaia's call, not mine). Regardless, it's a beautiful semi-spread collar. The shirt has a french placket with substantial MOP buttons sewn on with crow's foot stitching, etc. etc. (all the things you would expect from a Naples-made shirt minus most of the handwork). Regarding textiles, each season I design 75% of the fabrics we run exclusively with Grandi & Rubinelli and Canclini. The other 25% tend to be basics from Albini because I think they do classics better than anyone else. All in all, definitely worth trying, particularly if you are hitting the sale this week.


You'll be happy - the sleeves are a bit longer on our shirts with the idea that they can always be shortened, not lengthened

I have several Isaia shirts from Henry Bucks sale for $100 aud each last year. At $400-500 there are not very good value. Lovely button holes and hand shanked mop buttons. Probably a very small step down from G Inglese shirts.
 

alanm

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I'm never organised enough for Henry Bucks sale and always miss the best stuff - I'm going to have to book it in the calendar next time and just go right when they open next time!
 

meister

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Self-serious classic menswear types always decree "linen?! never in the office!"; but in all seriousness, what are the chances of anyone in an Australian office noticing if you're wearing a navy linen suit?

Your colleagues - I'd wager - are doubly likely not to give a toss if you're also reasonably good at your job.

My money is on navy Irish linen. Solbiati has a few good bunches IIRC.


Agree entirely and have worn linen for years in the office. Splashed out on a Trenery Solbiati linen/wool/silk job last week and got the extra Irish linen pants for the other type of suit (flax colour) in the deal= (worth $200). Took them to Hayel Saad in Pitt St for alterations and he commented on how nice was the Solbiati suit. I've ordered the flax colour jacket from another store. The navy blue is nice as well. Baird McNutt Irish linen. I have a couple of Landsend suits I have worn for like nearly 10 years in that material so I had chucked one flax one and am replacing with the Trenery. Half canvassed BTW for all up $600 and you get a free pair of pants ($200) from another colour or equivalent from Trenery at price of the pants. Maybe your solution if you want linen.
 

meister

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Wonder how many of the people recommending linen here actually have stuff made in linen.

I have actually drunk the linen kool aid - both light- and heavyweight Irish linen, and have come to the conclusion that linen is not a practical fabric for modern suiting. It's the fabric equivalent of a fixie bike (single speed) - charming, but completely impractical.

No one except iGents and people who haven't actually purchased any suits in (heavy) linen recommend (heavy) linen.

Linen is only cool wearing when it is lightweight and loosely woven. Lightweight and loosely woven linen bags - the elbows, knees, and crotch will will slowly stretch out. Lightweight linen creases - and does so very noticeably and unattractively.

Heavy linen "rumples" - like cordovan does vs regular leather - as opposed to creasing. You could even say this rumpling is charming. But in the heat it will cook you alive - it does not breath, all it does is wick moisture from you. In other words, it absorbs your sweat. Which is not a great thing for a suit to do - especially one in medium-heavy rotation. I am not aware of a loosely woven "fresco" type linen weave in a heavier weight.

Cotton will wear out (quick) and is not worth the premium unless you have cash to spare, or a huge suit rotation.

If you want to stay cool in summer while wearing a suit get a mohair/wool fabric in a lightweight + open weave. Wear a linen shirt by all means.

My 0.02

After wearing linen for more than 20 years I agree in part with some of this but the wicking is what keeps you cool. The heavier linens are also nicer to wear than you average wool suit and crease less than the lightweight wool like 120+ microns. Saying all that I have moved to thinking that the lighter delave type linens are a pretty good choice as well. Linen has grown and grown in popularity every year. The shops are full of it this year more than ever. The punters must know something. My tailor said the addition of silk to the linen is the best idea he maintains FWIW.
 

California Dreamer

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Just on this summer fabrics discussion, I found a sports coat today made of 100% bamboo. It's luxuriously soft and feels like it would make a great summer fabric. I won't know how it behaves with wrinkling until I wear it for a bit, but it looks and feels really good.
 

fxh

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Tonight . Neighbourhood dance, music, booze, food.
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