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Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll get what this is all about.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Foxhound, Feb 10, 2016.

  1. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Last edited: Oct 9, 2016
  2. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    :laugh:

    And knobweed.
     
  3. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Hadn't given that question any real consideration, but I do always ensure my ocelot and my synchrotron are at opposite sides of the colour wheel.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2016
  4. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

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    I only own their casual stuff but I've tried on their dress shirts, and yeah, the sleeves are pretty short IIRC.
     
  5. sliq

    sliq Senior member

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    I remember a time when Brioni were very exclusive and highly revered. Their mistake was making them appeal to the mass market and being more accessible.
     
  6. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    There's utterly no doubt that fewer men, as an overall percentage of the population, wear a suit and/or tailored clothing when compared to 40-50 years ago.

    However, to base the demise of the suit on the decline of one brand is very poor journalism. Brioni was failing before O'Shea, because they were selling a very expensive product but their target market was retiring and they had failed to attract a younger market. I can't be sure, but I very strongly suspect that many people under the age of, say, 50 thought that Brioni was a) too expensive and b) not cool. If you're going to spend thousands on a suit, then why not spend that money on a more fashionable brand, not on a brand that primarily made structured suits with padded shoulders worn by older men?

    I suspect that Brioni largely realised that a large percentage of the male working population either did not know about it, or thought that it was irrelevant, and so they decided to reinvent themselves. O'Shea probably sounded like a good choice - good social media following, known by younger followers of fashion, and with plenty of "street cred", so that he could develop a profile amongst younger people and remake the brand so that they would buy Brioni products.

    It appears that he failed in that, although he certainly didn't get much time to prove himself. I think that he tried to do too much, too quickly. Going by the fashion show photos, he totally abandoned Brioni's former core market and went all pimp-tastic, but people weren't buying it - not because suits are in decline, but because Brioni's new products simply didn't hold much appeal.
     
    3 people like this.
  7. LonerMatt

    LonerMatt Senior member

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    I know that this is quite ignorant of me, but who is O'Shea - a menswear blogger? - what is his role outside of Brioni?
     
  8. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    He spent some years as the "buying director" for European luxury clothing retailer/website MyTheresa and, while there, built up a large social media following. He was often seen in the front row at various fashion shows and rubbed shoulders with Anna Wintour (of Vogue), Kanye West and other (for better or worse) figures in the fashion industry.
     
  9. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    I think O'Shea is Australian and started off here?
     
  10. SydBased

    SydBased New Member

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    Hi guys I was eyeing off some Loakes on herring before I realised they can't deliver to Australia. The Loakes Australia site is way more expensive (500 vs 300). Is there anywhere else to order them from?
     
  11. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

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    This is correct.

    JM summed him up well.
     
  12. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Kamakura (and their parent brand, Maker's Shirt) are like Brooks Brothers in that they sell different configurations of fit, collar size and sleeve length. So for a given fit (e.g. "Tokyo Slim") and collar size, you can select from about three different sleeve lengths.

    This can make online ordering a little tricky. Various SF forumners have advised against the Tokyo Slim fit, but when I visited Kamakura's NY store (on 5th Ave), I was able to try various shirts on and found that Tokyo Slim worked for me. However, I needed the longest sleeve length, and it turned out that they had precisely one shirt in the entire store in my precise configuration.

    Same deal when I visited the Maker's Shirt store in Osaka last January. They had one or two shirts in my exact size, which I snapped up. Knowing I would be back in Osaka in six weeks, I asked if they could order three pale blue poplin business shirts for me, which they did - without asking for a deposit. Sure enough, six weeks later, the shirts were there, waiting for me in the back storeroom. Big smiles all 'round, especially at A$67 each.

    I would advise that you do your research carefully and make a "best guess" as to sizing, then order just the one shirt first-up. I'm not sure about their return policy (if any), but I guess if the shirt arrives and doesn't fit, you could return it at your own shipping expense. Be aware that company policy is now for all online ordering to be made via the NY store; their prices are substantially dearer than what's listed on the Japanese website. However, oddly enough, I believe you can still order through the Japanese site, although it's tricky...

    One final word of caution: business shirts tend to shrink a little. It's best to err on the side of longer sleeves. In any case, if the sleeves are still a little too long after a couple of washes, you can always have them shortened.

    Yes. He grew up in rural Northern Queensland. Somewhere near Mt Isa I believe.
     
  13. Gerry Nelson

    Gerry Nelson Senior member

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    I'd also never heard of him till he was fired.

    You might enjoy this:
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Petepan

    Petepan Senior member

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    Some of the Herring branded shoes are made by Loakes. Just check the last specifications. You can also just contact Herring directly to get the full details.

    If you are dead set on Loakes, then use an overseas shipping proxy. Loakes has prohibited all its overseas distributors from shipping directly to Australia, I presume to protect the local Loake distributors. Enrico Santi on Pitt Street in Sydney sells Loakes, often at reasonable markdowns (but still dearer than importing directly).
     
  15. crappbag

    crappbag Senior member

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    Pray tell?
     
  16. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    You used to be able to order via the Japanese Maker's Shirt site and I did a bit of a write-up on how to do it in the Kamakura Shirts thread some time back.

    However, I'm pretty sure that the option for international shipping was removed a while later, and now all international orders are routed through the US-based, Kamakura Shirts website. It's a pity, as the Japanese Maker's Shirt site usually has a considerably larger selection than does the Kamakura Shirts site.

    Edited to add: I'm pretty sure that I read somewhere that all international orders are shipped from Japan which makes the decision to only use the Kamakura Shirts website for international orders rather odd, but there's presumably some sort of business rationale behind it...
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2016
  17. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    The shops themselves are interesting. They look similar to the cheap to mid range menswear ships we have hear, and I suppose that's where they fit into in Japan. This one here is in a hallway underneath Tokyo station.

    I noticed that people, in this case dressed classically on average quite well and considerably better than Australians. After spending a month walking around and looking at all kinds of shops, I concluded that even the cheapest of stores sell nice clothes. The Japanese equivalents of Politix and RDX have well styled items, and whilst I'm sure the quality isn't great, it looked quite nice and would receive warm praise if shown off on here.

    I went into a few nondescript mid range shops selling suits from $400-$800 AUD, in house models that blew away anything MJB and Herringbone had to offer interns of style, features, and quality.

    As for Kamakura shirts, I cannot recommend them enough. If I was more sensible and less obsessed with fit, I would buy all my shirts from them.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2016
    2 people like this.
  18. Nolvadex

    Nolvadex Senior member

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    Anyone have issues receiving parcels recently? I have one that arrived in Australia almost two weeks ago and another one that arrived on Friday and have yet to receive either
     
  19. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Well, fit is king.

    However, as with pretty much everything, it's a matter of striking a balance.
    If you can get a well-made shirt that meets all of your other criteria but is a bit wide in the shoulders or a bit long in the sleeves, but costs $90, then you're probably better off getting four of those than paying $400 for a shirt that fits absolutely all of your criteria (unless, of course, you're fabulously wealthy).

    Japan certainly does have a lot of great clothing stores. Places like The Suit Company x Universal Language or Suit Select will sell you fantastic suits for $400-$500 and stores like Beams will sell you a suit by one of their house brands for $600-$800. I've heard that some of Beams' suits are made by Ring Jacket, but those ones cost a bit more but are still fantastic value.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2016
  20. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

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    Yeah waiting on five leather jackets, guess taking time in processing.
     
    2 people like this.

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