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Attolini Black TopCoat with a persian lamb collar-PiCs!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Soph, Aug 10, 2006.

  1. sammy

    sammy Senior member

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    Personally, I like the waist suppression. But it all depends upon whether or not it will flatter YOUR physique. I have an 8" drop between chest and waist, so the waist suppression suits me. But for others, I can see how it could be a bit much. That being said, I do love Attolini's silhouette. The DB coat is beautiful. I would just add a ticket pocket to it. Bellisima!
     
  2. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    I like Attolini's look as its very distinctive, beautiful to behold, and primarily has that 'Tailored' persona that the plebs (just joking) look upon as, "that man is well dressed"
    I own this very coat in this very color and am extremely pleased.
    I look kinda of sillly in padded shoulders, so alot has to do with your build, and I've never had anyone say I look like a
    womanhttp://styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=13720 [​IMG]
    A man should naturally have a a V-taper not a "Homer Simpson" silhouette

    [​IMG]
     
  3. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Like ladies' coats?
    They replicate the cut of the suit underneath. This is only achievable with bespoke or very good MTM.
     
  4. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    LK, it's a matter of taste. You can't automatically say the best anything is a corset.

    I can't say I like the shearling collared coat much at all. It's a little too showy, and a scarf would do the job just fine.

    Well, if we go for traditional dogma, then their version of the "best" would be with the corset camp. Considering that, men did wear corsets during the '20s up until the '40s to achieve that silhouette you tend to see in Apparel Arts.

    Unfortunately, most men don't respect themselves enough today to achieve any look even mediocre.
     
  5. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They replicate the cut of the suit underneath. This is only achievable with bespoke or very good MTM.
    I agree with LK here. One comment would be that overcoats should either be very fitted or very, very full. THe latter style is great in a British Warm style or an almost cape looking coat.
     
  6. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    I agree with LK here.

    One comment would be that overcoats should either be very fitted or very, very full. THe latter style is great in a British Warm style or an almost cape looking coat.

    A very full coat looks nice with raglan sleeves or in one of those A-Line coats you rarely see anymore.
     
  7. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Well, if we go for traditional dogma, then their version of the "best" would be with the corset camp. Considering that, men did wear corsets during the '20s up until the '40s to achieve that silhouette you tend to see in Apparel Arts.

    Unfortunately, most men don't respect themselves enough today to achieve any look even mediocre.


    --- LK, seems you've researched on the psychology of certain sectors of society's men actually finding dismay in taking care of themselves; I would be quite interested in a post on your thoughts/psychology of current US menswear and why men do or do not dress well. Is this pride in uncouth dress strictly a US subculture mentality Why has this come to play per se?
     
  8. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    --- LK, seems you've researched on the psychology of certain sectors of society's men actually finding dismay in taking care of themselves; I would be quite interested in a post on your thoughts/psychology of current US menswear and why men do or do not dress well. Is this uncouth dress strictly a US subculture mentality Why has this come to play per se?
    It seems it's strictly a question of "egalitarianism", and slouching standards. The former is a sort of inherent American attitude, which really hit its stride after the Hippy Revolution, and achieved its existence in the late '70s with feminism, and other PostModernist situations. Even with the tacky lounge suits, polyester suits, etc. of the '70s, there was still an expectation of looking suitable for occassions. The latter seems to be reflective of the American notion of being the supreme nation, and demographic so they feel they can justify anything thus slouching standards. Which is why the world tends to follow sloppiness. Also, post Stonewall, many men are afraid of being perceived as gay, which is especially apparent with being well-dressed in a sea of sloppiness that is current thought--quite the opposite of a subculture. In fact, subcultural entities usually pay much more attention to their overall look especially the retro types.
     
  9. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    I don`t think the Attolinis are wearing RTW or MTM...that is why their suits are different.

    I imagine Kiton, Attolini, etc. use machine in certain parts to save time and cost without sacrificing quality as much as much possible. Most RTW customers would not know the difference (or care that much), and for those that do know the difference would just order bespoke (Like the Attolinis themselves).
     
  10. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    Does anyone know if you can get that Persian lamb done in a different color or does Persian lamb limit your choice to black?
     
  11. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don`t think the Attolinis are wearing RTW or MTM...that is why their suits are different.

    I imagine Kiton, Attolini, etc. use machine in certain parts to save time and cost without sacrificing quality as much as much possible. Most RTW customers would not know the difference (or care that much), and for those that do know the difference would just order bespoke (Like the Attolinis themselves).

    That was actually my point exactly. I think that the super ultra high gorge on the RTW Attolinis show a certain lack of proportion and taste that the obviously bespoke one that Attolini is wearing does not.
     
  12. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Does anyone know if you can get that Persian lamb done in a different color or does Persian lamb limit your choice to black?
    I'm sure the skin can be dyed but they seem to come in black or a silver most frequently.
     
  13. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    There seems to be an array of colors via google picture search, how's that's achieved, is anyone's guess.
     
  14. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    I was trying to search for more information and came across this article from Robb Report

    Attolini's signature detail is an extremely high lapel notch that no machine can duplicate, and although all of his jackets bear this stamp, each is an expression of the man who wears it, not the tailor who made it"”an essential quality in bespoke clothing.

    Are they referring to bespoke Attolini? or are they talking about RTW and MTM garments too? or are they just talking about the attachment process?
     
  15. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    I was trying to search for more information and came across this article from Robb Report

    Attolini’s signature detail is an extremely high lapel notch that no machine can duplicate, and although all of his jackets bear this stamp, each is an expression of the man who wears it, not the tailor who made it—an essential quality in bespoke clothing.

    Are they referring to bespoke Attolini? or are they talking about RTW and MTM garments too? or are they just talking about the attachment process?


    Probably Bespoke. I believe people are saying their RTW is not but I don't know if someone has been to the shop to verify if it is or isn't, more speculation as fact? Anybody have any solid evidence?
     
  16. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    Not that this has any bearing on Attolini, but in talking to my tailor on saturday about the forthcoming price increases and that his prices were still quite reasonable compared to NYC or Savile Row, it came up that Anderson & Sheppard use machines on the insides of their jackets. Apparently he had to alter a bunch of jackets for a customer that no longer frequents A&S and was very surprised to see that in something that presumably cost 2-3k pounds sterling. He said that they were still beautiful jackets, but was surprised that they weren't entirely hand-made.

    I should also state that at first he couldn't remember the name of the Savile Row firm, but when I mentioned a couple of firms, A&S rung a bell and he was quite sure it was theirs. Take this for what it's worth, but it seems Attolini isn't the only high-end maker that's taking a couple shortcuts.
     
  17. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Probably Bespoke. I believe people are saying their RTW is not but I don't know if someone has been to the shop to verify if it is or isn't, more speculation as fact? Anybody have any solid evidence?
    Pictures on the website bear this out. Click on the construction area and look at collar. It is obviously machine padded. I have also looked inside a coat and seen that it was machine padded. AHarris said that on some fabrics he has seen that they actually fuse the lapels, but I have not seen this. Many of the SR firms use a ton of machine work.
     
  18. AlanC

    AlanC Senior member

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    A very full coat looks nice with raglan sleeves or in one of those A-Line coats you rarely see anymore.
    Vintage Oxxford (1956) A-line coat:

    [​IMG]
     

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