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Atelier Musella Dembech - Master Tailor in Milano, Italy - official affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Musella, Jul 5, 2012.

  1. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    Thank you. The Milanese shoulder is completely different from the spalla a camicia, that is neapolitan and always without any underconstruction.
    The construction of the shoulder in our own style is highly complexed because changes by the wearer, by the anatomy of the person. We study and design a pattern for every shoulder, the pressure and depression of the shoulder line like what happens inside a bespoke shoe.
    Our philosophy is "you can't use the same shoulder on all the persons because we are all different and we got different shoulders anatomy".
     
  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The sleeve head is still sewn in with the seam allowance pressed to the shoulder side, as in the spalla camicia, yes?
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Also it looks like even though there is some construction in the shoulder the chest is fairly soft with some drape, is that right?
     
  4. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    the spalla camicia is very different, also how the sleeve head is sewn. To better understand these things you should have one of our jacket onto your shoulders :)
    The shoulder is soft and with a little construction allowing the chest and the shoulder to drape and highlight the natural movement of the body.
     
  5. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    The trousers look beautiful. I appreciate the closure with the four buttons.

    The shoulder on the sport coat is very striking, as well. And the pattern matching is great. Do you ever do a sports coat without darts when there is a particularly obvious plaid?
     
  6. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    Thank you. No, actually we always use our pences, but the fabric patterns (also on plaid) match as well.
     
  7. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

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    What's that white fringe/frill on the edge of the placket on the shirt you're wearing below? I've never seen anything like that before.

    Edit: Hmmm... Darn it, quote doesn't seem to work. I'm referrring to post #78 above
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2013
  8. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    That it is not my shirt but the one of my customer so I can't help you, sorry.
     
  9. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    I had the opportunity of visiting Musella's atelier last week and all i can say is the pictures don't do justice to the quality of his work. That being said he's making milanese style suit and not soft napolitain suit. The canvas in Musella's suits is more thick/hard than napolitain suits that i have so no matter the construction or padding he's using his suits are more structured than napolitain suits.
    The spalla camicia "effect" seen in this photo comes from wearers shoulders in my opinion and not construction (area where the sleeves meet shoulder is really straight). Regarding drape, Musella's suits are not that drapey (less than napolitain suits) but it has this structure at the chest (which gives imo a very masculine effect). Actually it's very similar to one suit that i have from Naples but as his suits are more structured , the effects are more pronounced. I will have more to say about after first fitting which is in 3 weeks. But the jacket above is really fantastic, the roll of lapel is just wonderful
     
    2 people like this.
  10. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    Dear all,
    For those who may be interested we are planning to come to Switzerland and south Germany area: Zurich, and possibly also to Munich or Frankfurt during the first weeks of March.
    As many of You already know, our own style is based on the old Milanese and Caraceni Milanese, being my father one of the old and last masters of this method characterised by a very soft and lightweight but still structured style.
    You can check some of our works on our website: www.muselladembechmilano.com
    To sign up and to place an appointment, you should contact me by phone at (+39) 340 8520357 or email me at muselladembech@gmail.com

    Gianfrancesco
     
  11. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    Our own style, doppio 4 buttons and patched pockets
     
    4 people like this.
  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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  14. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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  15. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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  16. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    Here is a jacket made by Musella for me. Style is a personal issue however i can easily say that this is one of the best fit coat that i got from tailors in Italy. I have also suits made by three different tailors in Naples but communication is really hard with them. Language is not only issue, Solito doesn't speak english but he's easy to communicate, he's telling you what he's doing(i really like the DB he did for me), you may want it or don't want it you can discuss. Some tailors just fit for you and didn't say anything at all you really don't know what you are getting. (i definitely won't return to other two)
    In any case if you like milanese style, it worth to give a try to Musella. His work is of highest quality, personal and real bespoke. If you need further info just send me a pm.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Looks very nice, like the checks matched. Is that a keyhole buttonhole on the lapel?
     
  18. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Great looking jacket, lovely lapel roll! Are there any significant differences between this jackets and the Napoli counter parts in your opinion ?
     
  19. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    Yes it's a keyhole buttonhole... All details on the jacket are just amazing.. very very nice finish.
     
  20. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    Napoli jackets are completely different than this jacket. You can read hundred of posts about difference between two jackets but you really can not understand without trying both (i am skipping details like shoulders shape, open quarters etc. which is written everywhere)... Napoli jackets are worn very close to the body. They are light when you wear it in the sense that it covers your body, however they are not light in weight, the canvas used in napoli suits seems to me soft but not thin. In milanese jacket it's more hard but not that heavy. Milanese jacket is light weight but as canvas is more harder the jacket has more SHAPE. Milanese jacket has really a nice shape.
    Construction is different as well, Musella will give better details for sure but least i can say is during fitting, napoli jackets are basted everywhere, in milanese jacket canvas is sewn only in some places (where there are darts etc).
    Again you really need to wear them to feel the difference. it's really not shoulders or open quarters that make difference, it's the inner construction and the way of construction that make difference.
     
    1 person likes this.

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