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Astor & Black

Rebel_5

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Can anyone comment on Astor & Black tailors? How do the compare to RTW lines? Canali, PRL, or maybe more like JAB or Brooks?
 

HelloMrFancyPants

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If you search for A&B you'll find that not many people have experience with them. I ordered a suit. For the price the construction was good, but the fit was horrendous (I'm talking things like the button holes were too low, the jacket too long, collar gap). I'm not a difficult person to fit, either. What good is being able to select Scabal fabric if the tailoring makes it look like someone stuffed a potato in an envelope?

For only slightly more money Mr. Ned for suits and jackets and Carl at CEGO for shirts provide much better service with much better end results.
 

bill_bain

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What was the upshot of the transaction?

Would it be too forward of me to ask what the price was? With a RTW Samuelsohn at H. Stockton here in Atlanta approxiamtely $1000, I'm thinking that MTM or something more custom might make sense.
 

Jaygatsby28

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I am actually in the process of using them right now. I will be starting work in NYC in July so I wanted to build up a great wardrobe.

I am taking it slow with them. Ordering the clothing one piece at a time to make sure the fit is perfect before ordering a larger quantity. Obviously since I am still a student, I have the luxury of time so that I can do this.

I ordered a pair of trousers first. I was extremely pleased with the construction and the fit. I have received numerous comments on how great the pants fit, especially in how they fall on the legs. The fabric is absolute top quality, in my case it was from the Zegna mills.

I placed an order for a shirt with them and will actually be receiving it tomorrow, so I will comment on it when I get it.

I think that tomorrow I will place my first order for the suit jacket that complements the trousers I already received from them.

I really like the company. One of their representatives comes to your home, measures you, goes though a number of fabric books with you, and helps you select your clothing. You can specialize your clothing to your liking. For instance, you specify your collar, cuff, button and pocket styles on your shirts. For suits, you can request hand stitching around the lapels, you can have a ticket pocket added to the jacket, jacket lining is personalized, surgeon cuffs if you desire, and you can select button styles. I love how everything can be customized.

All the clothing is made by tailors in Hong Kong. It usually takes 4-6 weeks to receive the cloths. My representative has come over each time, had me try on the clothing and will fix any problems. Luckily, for the trousers I ordered, there was no need for further adjustments. He did a great job measuring. Greatest part is they guarantee all their work, so if something is horribly disfigured as HelloMrFancyPants above mentioned, they will remake the suit.

HelloMrFancyPants, did you get your suit remade? I find it odd that the fit would have been that bad. Hopefully your rep fixed that for you.
 

Rebel_5

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Thanks for the replies. I've searched here and AAAC, and there's not much availible on A&B. Jaygatsby's response is the most information I've seen. I'd love to know the results when you recieve your jacket Jay. HelloMrFancyPants, I'd love to try Mr Ned, but I'm in the Boston area. Could you suggest someone comparable in this area?
 

Shirtmaven

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Jay do you work for astor and black, or just right their copy?

carl
 

Bergdorf Goodwill

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I have two Astor & Black suits that are the same size in very nice fabrics that I intend to sell here whenever I stop being such a lazy shit.
 

Jaygatsby28

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Upon reading my post it does sound a little like I work for them! Nope I'm still in university finishing up my last year come this May.

I decided to post some more info about A&B because, to be honest, I couldn't find a lot out there aside from their website. I'd love to hear from others that have purchased suits/shirts from them. It would just be nice to get some feedback on what to expect before I dive in and order 4 or 5 suits for work.

I'll post some pictures when I get a chance.

Carl, can't afford your shirts yet, but hopefully someday in the near future!

-Jay
 

Shirtmaven

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I have read a little about the company.
I have not seen any garments, but the qaulity should be standand well made HK sewing.
the key is how well trained is the person taking your measurements.
My thoughts are that it takes a good six months befor you gain real confidence in your ability to measure. and years to learn how to spot various posture issues that need to be accounted for to avoid costly alterations.

Jay do you want to write for my site? we can trade for shirts!!!

Carl
 

HelloMrFancyPants

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From A&B I ordered a 3-pc suit for $800, a pair trousers for $200 and ten shirts for ~$100/each just to try them out. My saleswoman, Jessica, had been with the firm for about a year at the time, but seemed to have only a fairly rudimentary knowledge of tailoring and measuring. A good example is when I asked if they could put lapels on the vest, she looked at me funny saying "Really? I've NEVER seen that!". Now, I understand that the request might be a bit arcane, but that should be a good part of the reason to go MTM.

Since I lived in Providence before moving to NYC where I relied on the indomitable Briggs Doherty for all matters Sartorial (before he sold the company to Barbara Streisand's cousin), this was my first stab at finding decent MTM in Manhattan, and a large part of the reason I have resolved to not buy clothes without fittings any longer. I'm almost a perfect 42 OTR, but prefer things like single-button jackets and peak lapels, so I can't imagine how difficult it would be to measure me- I think I should be pretty darn close to an on-hand pattern.

If it just so happens that by some confluence of planetary and zodiacal fortune your A&B clothes fit properly, it would be a very compelling reason to buy from them. Perhaps a more traditional HK tailor like Chan or A Man or someone might be better at it, but I think I'll stick to the domestic types for the sake of building a relationship with someone who understands my perspective on suiting up.

The shirts were an exception, but still I'd say it might be worth paying the premium for someone like Carl or the guys at Paris or even Ascot Chang for the way they know their way around the swatches and some of the finer points of the actual construction.
 

Jaygatsby28

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I decided to post a few pictures of the pair of pants and the shirt I ordered from A&B. Pants were $165 and shirt was $100. Upon receiving the shirt the other day I ordered 10 for $650 (one of their deals). I am very pleased with the shirt and have never had one fit me so well. I can't wait until I can afford the true bespoke shirts someday, they must fit like a dream. This is not to down play the shirt I just got, I really love it. The material is very good, strong collar and cuffs. Buttons are made of a mother of pearl appearing material. The seams of the shirt appear to be very well sown. The pants I received a while ago. I really like the material they are made out of (same as high end Zegna). They fit very well and I am impressed with the extra features (reinforced crotch and rubber around waist to keep shirt tucked in firmly).

I am very pleased with these items. In addition to the 10 shirts, I also went ahead and ordered the jacket that goes with the pants ($400) which is fully canvassed. This will be the real test. My sales rep, David, has gone 2 for 2 so far, I hope the jacket turns out just as great.

I am sorry to hear about the poor measuring Jessica did. As my sales rep was explaining to me, you really need to gain experience in measuring to do a half decent job. Luckily for me, he has been doing this for a few years and measures a decent client list here in Montreal. I really am pleased with the results. As a guy about to enter the work force, I feel it was a great investment.

So take a look at the pics and let me know what you think. Please ignore my messy apartment in the background.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

PS. Carl...deal!
 

Shirtmaven

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Jay

I hope you did not order 10 shirts that fit like that. did your salesman see this shirt on you?

The workmanship is fine on the garments.

Carl
 

taxgenius

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Tarmac

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the construction has some nice features but this pattern matching is terrible. I am of the belief that you should reserve all your solid colors for the lesser shirtmakers and go all out on patterns, because I hate mismatched patterns.
 

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