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Assessing Leather and Suede Quality

DrewMill

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So I've been been trying to figure out lately, how, by sight and touch, to determine which leathers and suede (mostly on shoes) are of higher quality than others. I'm not talking about top grain, full grain, splits, bookbinder, etc., I mean differentiating between two different box calfs or two different suedes. All of the information I have been able to find are on different types of leather. I'm looking for advice on judging two different leathers within the same type. Does anyone have and experience of resources they could share on this? Thanks!
 

Goofy

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I’d believe it would take a long time for people to develop such a skill. No capable person is going to divulge such information to complete strangers. It would require hands on experience in the field, like an apprenticeship at a tannery to develop such skill.
 

Phileas Fogg

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Assuming we’re talking about shoes and also assuming that this is more than just some academic curiosity but that you want to know for yourself the quality of the material on the shoe prior to purchase, I agree with the above.

This is where you sort of have to know the brand and trust it. Know your shoemaker and trust that the end product will be of good quality on workmanship and material.

As for tanneries, the only one I know is Horween. Again, trust that if the leather/suede is from Horween, it’s of good quality.

If I’m off the mark, please ignore.
 

DrewMill

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I’d believe it would take a long time for people to develop such a skill. No capable person is going to divulge such information to complete strangers. It would require hands on experience in the field, like an apprenticeship at a tannery to develop such skill.
Assuming we’re talking about shoes and also assuming that this is more than just some academic curiosity but that you want to know for yourself the quality of the material on the shoe prior to purchase, I agree with the above.

This is where you sort of have to know the brand and trust it. Know your shoemaker and trust that the end product will be of good quality on workmanship and material.

As for tanneries, the only one I know is Horween. Again, trust that if the leather/suede is from Horween, it’s of good quality.

If I’m off the mark, please ignore.

What you both say makes sense. I meant solely as a shopper for myself. However, I can see how that could be threatening to people who make their livings on on this skill (shoemakers, tanners, artisans, etc.). I hadn't even thought of that. I'm just trying to buy the best I can afford. Haha!
 

Phileas Fogg

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What you both say makes sense. I meant solely as a shopper for myself. However, I can see how that could be threatening to people who make their livings on on this skill (shoemakers, tanners, artisans, etc.). I hadn't even thought of that. I'm just trying to buy the best I can afford. Haha!

nothing wrong with that at all. Also bear in mind there’s more than just the quality of the leather/suede. The construction of the shoe also matters.

Like I said, personally, I’d get to know the brands and their overall reputation and quality and infer from that the quality of the materials.

good luck.
 

TimothyF

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I understand where you are coming from, but it is unrealistic for a consumer to know at that level. The best course of action would be (as suggested above) finding a brand or maker to trust.

The same exact hide can be cut be one maker into one first-rate shoe, and by another maker into multiple third-rate shoes. There are too many variables that go into the final quality of the shoe, and the quality of the raw leather is only one of them.
 

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