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Assembly New York spring/summer 2013 at Capsule NY

shoreman1782

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Assembly New York spring/summer 2013

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Words and photos by Pete Anderson

I love a 60/40 jacket as much as any cubicle-farmer pining for the outdoors, but the distinctive odor of cotton/nylon retro-cute outdoors was overwhelming at times in the menswear showrooms and shows of spring/summer 2013. On the sprawling floor of Basketball City, where this season's Capsule show was held, it was hard for new (or even established) brands to stand out among the camp caps and charmingly outdated performance fabrics. Lines like Assembly New York, which didn't fit cleanly into easy categorization, were that much easier to pick out.

With a shop and manufacturing on Ludlow street in Manhattan, Assembly focuses on androgynous basics in natural colors. The clothes are designed by owner Greg Armas, and hit a lot of the marks that people look for in designer clothing—nontraditional shapes, treated fabrics, and original thought—at a more accessible price. For those who care less about perfect fits and what their grandfather wore and more about silhouette and ease of wear, Assembly is a, um, perfect fit.

Spring/Summer 2013 sees linens and gauzy cotton in shapes that pay only token attention to traditional tailoring. A light linen cardigan, closed with one button and finished with a drawstring hem, looked comfortable over a tshirt printed with the image of Sinead O'Connor looking quite dada. A sportcoat of sorts in wrinkled cotton has lapels that would make the MC crowd pop out their monocles. Matched with cinch-hem trousers in the same fabric, it's the most relaxed suit this side of 80s Armani.

Some pieces are splattered with paint, and past seasons have included fabrics with bleach, reinforcing the theme of not babying your clothes, and hinting at the arts audience Assembly courts. Accessories range from a mud-block print backpack (print also seen on tshirts) to a straw hat from Assembly's ongoing collaboration with Japanese maker Rawmuber Plus.

Assembly New York is available at Assembly's NY shop as well as Revolve, Opening Ceremony, Standup Comedy, Totokaelo (Seattle), Frances May, Hunting and Collecting, and others.

Assembly New York
170 Ludlow Street
New York, NY 10002
212 253 5393

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