Ask your shoe repair questions here:

[RoseGardener]

I think and was told that it's too far gone, but thought I could use an expert opinion. Will the so call leather glue and used dryer sheet method help these very cracked monks?

 

[Nick V.]

I think and was told that it's too far gone, but thought I could use an expert opinion. Will the so call leather glue and used dryer sheet method help these very cracked monks?

I think and was told that it's too far gone, but thought I could use an expert opinion. Will the so call leather glue and used dryer sheet method help these very cracked monks?

 

[Nick V.]

My comments would be the same as my reply to suitforcourt (post # 104) except that it appears the shoes pictured
are in worse condition than his. Cement won't help filling in the cracks. The only time it would help is if the upper liner separated from the lining leather, (I can't tell if that's the case from the pics.) Those two pieces can be joined back together with cement.
I'm unfamiliar with the used dryer sheet method but, I'm curious if you care to share it with me...

 

[RoseGardener]

My comments would be the same as my reply to suitforcourt (post # 104) except that it appears the shoes pictured
are in worse condition than his. Cement won't help filling in the cracks. The only time it would help is if the upper liner separated from the lining leather, (I can't tell if that's the case from the pics.) Those two pieces can be joined back together with cement.
I'm unfamiliar with the used dryer sheet method but, I'm curious if you care to share it with me...

I got this online, I don't have hands on experience:

How to Fix Deeper Cuts and Cracks
The first step to fix cracked leather is to clean its surface using a drybrush.. Then, you can use a shoe dauber and saddle soap to clean the leather thoroughly and make it as flexible as possible. Afterwards, you must allow the leather to dry.

Next, you need to smooth the cracks in the leather to make sure you can fix it properly. A little mink oil can help with this task, as it has the effect of making leather more flexible. In the case of shoes, you also need to stuff them, so they maintain their proper shape.

To repair the crack, you can employ a used dryer sheet. Use a spatula to apply leather glue inside and around the crack and then spread the dryer sheet against the glue and press the leather together. Finally, let it dry for 24 hours and smooth once more with mink oil.

The market offers many great leather-conditioning products. Renapur is one of the top brands when it comes to leather balsams and leather care products. Antiquax leather soap is a great product for both cleaning and preserving leather. If you are looking for mink oil, Red Wing is one of the most reliable and popular brands around.
​

http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Repair-Split-Leather-/10000000178372137/g.html

Then there is this colourlock leather glue, against i haven't used them:


And this guy used some kind of filler:


This guy used a 3M filler:

 

[gyasih]

@Nick V.

Hi Nick, quick question

I have several shoes whose heels have worn down unevenly, but only slightly. Does it make sense to have the heels evened out and then adding rear taps? And so you replace just Dainite heels?

 

[Nick V.]

I got this online, I don't have hands on experience:

How to Fix Deeper Cuts and Cracks
The first step to fix cracked leather is to clean its surface using a drybrush.. Then, you can use a shoe dauber and saddle soap to clean the leather thoroughly and make it as flexible as possible. Afterwards, you must allow the leather to dry.

Next, you need to smooth the cracks in the leather to make sure you can fix it properly. A little mink oil can help with this task, as it has the effect of making leather more flexible. In the case of shoes, you also need to stuff them, so they maintain their proper shape.

To repair the crack, you can employ a used dryer sheet. Use a spatula to apply leather glue inside and around the crack and then spread the dryer sheet against the glue and press the leather together. Finally, let it dry for 24 hours and smooth once more with mink oil.

The market offers many great leather-conditioning products. Renapur is one of the top brands when it comes to leather balsams and leather care products. Antiquax leather soap is a great product for both cleaning and preserving leather. If you are looking for mink oil, Red Wing is one of the most reliable and popular brands around.
​

http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Repair-Split-Leather-/10000000178372137/g.html

Then there is this colourlock leather glue, against i haven't used them:


And this guy used some kind of filler:


This guy used a 3M filler:

Thanks for sharing Sir.
A few things though....
First, I'm not a fan of using Mink Oil on any dress footwear. My reasoning is, mink oil is heavily oil based. Once you apply it, it's extremely difficult to remove the oily residue from the surface of the leather. That will result in 2 negative factors. 1. it will dull the leather cheapening it's appearance. 2. The residue will act as a magnet attracting dirt, dust and, grime.

I do however recommend mink oil where cosmetics is not as much of a concern as it is with dress wear.
For instance, hiking, hunting boots when you know that from time to time your footwear will be subject to more severe weather conditions then your dress-wear footwear typically will.

Regarding the videos. I've seen similar products advertised on TV. Interesting but I'm skeptical for a few reasons. I see these videos mostly repairing upholstery. I haven't seen any demos on footwear using those products. Further, upholstery leather is different than most leathers used in the footwear industry. And last 2 things are 1. the longevity of the fix, 2. being much thinner leather and subject to much more constant flexing I question the effectiveness of those products on footwear.

 

[RoseGardener]

Thanks for sharing Sir.
A few things though....
First, I'm not a fan of using Mink Oil on any dress footwear. My reasoning is, mink oil is heavily oil based. Once you apply it, it's extremely difficult to remove the oily residue from the surface of the leather. That will result in 2 negative factors. 1. it will dull the leather cheapening it's appearance. 2. The residue will act as a magnet attracting dirt, dust and, grime.

I do however recommend mink oil where cosmetics is not as much of a concern as it is with dress wear.
For instance, hiking, hunting boots when you know that from time to time your footwear will be subject to more severe weather conditions then your dress-wear footwear typically will.

Regarding the videos. I've seen similar products advertised on TV. Interesting but I'm skeptical for a few reasons. I see these videos mostly repairing upholstery. I haven't seen any demos on footwear using those products. Further, upholstery leather is different than most leathers used in the footwear industry. And last 2 things are 1. the longevity of the fix, 2. being much thinner leather and subject to much more constant flexing I question the effectiveness of those products on footwear.

Thanks Nicks for sharing your invaluable experience and knowledge. I am debating if I should try this one out. It's an eBay Santoni Monk for $25 or so, not sure if cheap enough to experiment or waste time to fix. On the other hand, longevity doesn't really come into play in my case: Being an retiree with many shoes, this Monk at most get 2 to 3 days a month in rotation, if that. And I don't walk much, much less in harsh environments. Of course I don't want to walk into a nice restaurant with cracked shoes.

On the subject of longevity, I suspect most members on this forum owns 10+ pairs of shoes? Most may also be office dwellers staying out of elements most of the time?? AND, most knows how to take care of their shoes. I would think shoes in these conditions ought to last til we are tired of looking at them?

 

[Nick V.]

@Nick V.

Hi Nick, quick question

I have several shoes whose heels have worn down unevenly, but only slightly. Does it make sense to have the heels evened out and then adding rear taps? And so you replace just Dainite heels?

Heels wearing unevenly is the norm. Building them up and adding the heel plates is not the correct way of going about this.
At this point I would suggest that you continue wearing your shoes until the rubber part of the top-lift wears down to about the thickness of a quarter. At that point, have the top-lifts replaced and try the rubber heel taps. Doing it this way will ensure that you won't do any unnecessary damage to the heel stack and you will get full use out the existing heels. Then, start all over except this time with the heel protectors.
Yes, Dainite heels (only) can be replaced.

 

[gyasih]

Heels wearing unevenly is the norm. Building them up and adding the heel plates is not the correct way of going about this.
At this point I would suggest that you continue wearing your shoes until the rubber part of the top-lift wears down to about the thickness of a quarter. At that point, have the top-lifts replaced and try the rubber heel taps. Doing it this way will ensure that you won't do any unnecessary damage to the heel stack and you will get full use out the existing heels. Then, start all over except this time with the heel protectors.
Yes, Dainite heels (only) can be replaced.

Thank you

 

[thuhoan]

Im sorry if this question has already been asked or answered.

When resoling, what are main the differences in terms of functionality and flexibility between a half sole and a full resole?

The reason I am asking this is because:
1) A half sole can be goodyear stitched just like a full sole (you can even use JR for half sole);
2) In the case of a full resole, the sole gets glued to the cork any way just like a half sole;
3) Putting on a Topy needs glue as well (though sanding just a bit of the outsole).

In all cases there is the use of adhesive. But resoling using adhesive as the only construction on a pair of goodyears (or blake for that matter) makes no sense, so one could opt for restitch. But, you still need glue.

 

[Nick V.]

Im sorry if this question has already been asked or answered.

When resoling, what are main the differences in terms of functionality and flexibility between a half sole and a full resole?

The reason I am asking this is because:
1) A half sole can be goodyear stitched just like a full sole (you can even use JR for half sole);
2) In the case of a full resole, the sole gets glued to the cork any way just like a half sole;
3) Putting on a Topy needs glue as well (though sanding just a bit of the outsole).

In all cases there is the use of adhesive. But resoling using adhesive as the only construction on a pair of goodyears (or blake for that matter) makes no sense, so one could opt for restitch. But, you still need glue.

This in part was a post I wrote a while back:

Personally, I don't like 1/2 soles. I wouldn't put them on my own shoes (nor would most shoe repair shop workers/owners) so, why would I put them on a customer's? Fact is that the profit MARGIN is higher on 1/2 soles than full soles. This is due to time and materials. That's why most shops prefer doing 1/2 soles over full. 1/2 soles are spliced/skived together. IMO that joint disrupts and weakens the integrity of the shoe. The cork foot-bed is also pieced together. I many cases, the 1/2 sole is nailed across the arch area. The nails are metal and crimped through the insole. When moisture occurs the nails will eventually rust. When that happens the rust will eat away at the leather insole rotting it to a point where it no longer has any structural integrity. At that point, the shoe is shot. So, it's entirely possible that you get the life of one pair of 1/2 soles and the shoes are done/VS several pairs of full soles extending the life of a high-grade shoe that you have invested in for many more years.

The flexibility is not really a concern as the splice is in area at the bottom of the sole that doesn't flex much.
JR doe's make 1/2 soles. I never bought a pair though.
2) In the case of a full resole, the sole gets glued to the cork any way just like a half sole;
Correct but two things though #1. There is always a chance the 1/2 sole can separate at the seam where it is joined to the original sole. #2. If they are stitched on, the stitching will overlap on the welt where the two soles join. Not only is that unsightly but, double stitching will weaken the welt.
3) Putting on a Topy needs glue as well (though sanding just a bit of the outsole).
I'm not clear on your point and/or concern. Yes, in either cases cement is used.

 

[ran23]

I picked up some Florsheim Imperials V-clips off of the bay. Picture didn't show how worn the heels are. I am new to this city and shops are quoting $50 to repair. I didn't think to ask, I imagine that is per shoe. Quote about right for this? I saw repairs kits offered, but not up to trying it.

 

[Nick V.]

I picked up some Florsheim Imperials V-clips off of the bay. Picture didn't show how worn the heels are. I am new to this city and shops are quoting $50 to repair. I didn't think to ask, I imagine that is per shoe. Quote about right for this? I saw repairs kits offered, but not up to trying it.

Normally prices quoted are per pair. However, were they going to do a double row of nails and a "V" plate? Is that what you want? If so, make sure that, that is clear to them. Most shops don't offer "V" plates. If not, ask to see the heel they intend to use. Make sure it's not a thick rubber heel. If it is, chances are the shop is going to remove the leather base and use it on another customers shoes and then charge that customer for a new leather base.

 

[suitforcourt]

I picked up some Florsheim Imperials V-clips off of the bay. Picture didn't show how worn the heels are. I am new to this city and shops are quoting $50 to repair. I didn't think to ask, I imagine that is per shoe. Quote about right for this? I saw repairs kits offered, but not up to trying it.

I wouldn't try to do it. Leave it to the experts.

 

[thuhoan]

Hi Nick V,

My big toes are wearing out the leather lining on all of my dress shoes. They are pointing upwards so I can imagine the toe nails cause these holes. But there are holes in my socks..

Luckily there is the toe cap stiffener, which still prevents it from wearing it through the outer leather. Some shoes I have had for two years now. Holes aren't different from shoes I have a year now. Im afraid the toe cap stiffener will give up some time. Makes no sense to buy gyw shoes for resole reasons if there upper leathers give out first.


Please help me out. Thanks!