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Shoenut

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Good afternoon,
I have a dress moccasin shoe with a simple Blake stitch sole. One row of stitching that can be seen inside the shoe. For as thin as this sole is, it has worn quite well. To be honest the plug is lizard and I will only wear with no chance of rain. I was wondering if I could have a midsole added on my next resole. This shoe has quite a low profile but I think having more sole material would make this shoe a bit more comfortable overall. For a $495 shoe, I cannot get over the leather covered cup foam insole. Is there a way to make the same shape half insole with all leather components? I want to make these changes but just a little worried that adding a thicker sole would ruin the profile of the shoe. Does anyone have thoughts about this change. The shoe is also a Mezlan if that helps at all.
 

Nick V.

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Good afternoon,
I have a dress moccasin shoe with a simple Blake stitch sole. One row of stitching that can be seen inside the shoe. For as thin as this sole is, it has worn quite well. To be honest the plug is lizard and I will only wear with no chance of rain. I was wondering if I could have a midsole added on my next resole. This shoe has quite a low profile but I think having more sole material would make this shoe a bit more comfortable overall. For a $495 shoe, I cannot get over the leather covered cup foam insole. Is there a way to make the same shape half insole with all leather components? I want to make these changes but just a little worried that adding a thicker sole would ruin the profile of the shoe. Does anyone have thoughts about this change. The shoe is also a Mezlan if that helps at all.
Hello Sir--

Yes, you can add a "slip-sole" which is slightly thinner than a mid-sole but that would essentially convert the construction to Blake/rapid. The slip-sole would be stitched using the same Blake method that the existing sole had been stitched. However, the out sole must then be stitched to the slip-sole using an out-sole stitcher. So, looking down at the shoe you will see a row of stitching around the outside perimeter of the shoe making it look similar to a GYW shoe. That will change the appearance of the shoe significantly.

Instead of doing that, a slightly thicker sole can be used. In this case a 7/8 iron thickness would probably be fine. That sole can be Blake stitched to the upper just the way the original sole was. The sole can be trimmed with a rounded edge. This way it won't appear as thick leaving the profile still looking sleek.

I'm unclear as to what you mean by "leather covered cup foam insole". If you can see the sole stitching inside the shoe under the vamp you probably have a 3/4 heel seat. That's how most Blake stitched shoes are made. Do you mean that there is a piece of foam under the 3/4 heel seat? That's common as well. If you post a picture I can be more definitive.
 

Shoenut

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Hello Sir--

Yes, you can add a "slip-sole" which is slightly thinner than a mid-sole but that would essentially convert the construction to Blake/rapid. The slip-sole would be stitched using the same Blake method that the existing sole had been stitched. However, the out sole must then be stitched to the slip-sole using an out-sole stitcher. So, looking down at the shoe you will see a row of stitching around the outside perimeter of the shoe making it look similar to a GYW shoe. That will change the appearance of the shoe significantly.

Instead of doing that, a slightly thicker sole can be used. In this case a 7/8 iron thickness would probably be fine. That sole can be Blake stitched to the upper just the way the original sole was. The sole can be trimmed with a rounded edge. This way it won't appear as thick leaving the profile still looking sleek.

I'm unclear as to what you mean by "leather covered cup foam insole". If you can see the sole stitching inside the shoe under the vamp you probably have a 3/4 heel seat. That's how most Blake stitched shoes are made. Do you mean that there is a piece of foam under the 3/4 heel seat? That's common as well. If you post a picture I can be more definitive.
Here are some pictures so my lack of proper shoe terms does not get in the way.
Inside:
2A5BFB1B-66BC-4ADF-AF56-9B55B912D105.jpeg

31FC1AEA-8141-4942-9235-00927B8E8102.jpeg

Here is a profile.
346C0958-6FBE-4BA4-908B-563DBFDFEDDA.jpeg

Finally the only part of the shoe that I do not like. This foam or rubber molded 3/4 heel cup. Part of it is thicker for a more padded feel but it feels like I am standing on a bump in the heel of the shoe. I really like the feel of a harder insole.
5BB9D6C5-1551-479B-9421-12CC203DF212.jpeg
 

Nick V.

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Here are some pictures so my lack of proper shoe terms does not get in the way.
Inside:
View attachment 1205109
View attachment 1205110
Here is a profile.
View attachment 1205111
Finally the only part of the shoe that I do not like. This foam or rubber molded 3/4 heel cup. Part of it is thicker for a more padded feel but it feels like I am standing on a bump in the heel of the shoe. I really like the feel of a harder insole.
View attachment 1205112
Just as I thought. Very common on Blake made shoes. The foam can be removed but you will lose the cushion "feel" in the heel. If that's okay with you I would suggest replacing the 3/4 leather heel seat using thicker leather. The foam is not only mean't for comfort but it helps to smooth out the feel of the nails used to attach the heel base.
BTW, your shoes have the rounded edge on the sole trimming that I mentioned....
 

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