Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[ThomGault]

I just purchased a solid black 2-button herringbone Isaia suit. Would surgeons cuffs be inappropriate due to formality? If not, and due to the permanence of working buttons, what cuff length would be appropriate please?

I'm not sure what surgeon's cuffs have to do with formality or cuff length. Get it tailored to the normal proper length.
ETA: you're not suggesting adding working button holes to a pre-existing suit, are you?
ETA 2: I wouldn't pick a black herringbone suit anyway. Choose eithere solid black or patterned colors, but not patterned black.

 

[sterlingindigo]

I'm not sure what surgeon's cuffs have to do with formality or cuff length. Get it tailored to the normal proper length.
ETA: you're not suggesting adding working button holes to a pre-existing suit, are you?

Thanks yeah so it’s a new suit, untailored cuffs. Considering working buttons but wasn’t sure if that’s kosher for a black suit. Tailors are slim pickings here in mid Michigan and was offered 4 sleeve length options saying that shorter was more formal? I think I need to move out of here... Anyway, that’s my quandary. Thanks for your kindness.

 

[happyriverz]

Where can I find RTW suits that have a more traditional, straight leg trousers? For reference, most of my tailored trousers are from O'Connells, which have anywhere between a 8.5 to 9 inch trouser hem opening, which is what I prefer.

I have tried looking at both mall brands (JCrew, Club Monaco, SuitSupply) and more traditional menswear retailers (Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Nordstrom), and the problem is this: (1) most suits with straight leg cuts are usually categorized under the "traditional" or "classic" fits at most contemporary stores, and most of them have single vents, but I want side vents and (2) even where I can find both the trouser cut and side vents, my options are only limited to your standard work house smooth 120s worsted in navy or gray.

 

[BlairW]

Which are you asking about? Makers of grenadine ties, or the types of ties from those two makers? Or ties in general?

I think he's looking for a Grenadine tie and would like to know if we would go with Kent Wang or Berg & Berg or if there is another maker he should buy a Grenadine tie from.

I'd throw Drake's in there.

Churchill is on the money with what I was meaning - I'm looking for a brown grenadine tie, and both Berg & Berg and Kent Wang are at similar price points so I was wondering if anybody could advise which might be better and why?

 

[ThomGault]

Churchill is on the money with what I was meaning - I'm looking for a brown grenadine tie, and both Berg & Berg and Kent Wang are at similar price points so I was wondering if anybody could advise which might be better and why?

I've no experience with those two brands, but the standard recommended grenadine companies are Chipp Neckwear (http://www.chippneckwear.com/) or Sam Hober (https://www.samhober.com/). Honestly, with the customization of Hober and the experience of Chipp, I wouldn't consult any other company.

 

[BlairW]

Cheers @ThomGault I had forgotten about Hober and not heard of Chipp at all - will check out!

 

[papado]

Where can I find RTW suits that have a more traditional, straight leg trousers? For reference, most of my tailored trousers are from O'Connells, which have anywhere between a 8.5 to 9 inch trouser hem opening, which is what I prefer.

I have tried looking at both mall brands (JCrew, Club Monaco, SuitSupply) and more traditional menswear retailers (Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Nordstrom), and the problem is this: (1) most suits with straight leg cuts are usually categorized under the "traditional" or "classic" fits at most contemporary stores, and most of them have single vents, but I want side vents and (2) even where I can find both the trouser cut and side vents, my options are only limited to your standard work house smooth 120s worsted in navy or gray.

I would try Paul Stuart--even their 'modern' fit model suits don't have much of a taper and are fairly classic.

 

[maxalex]

I need some help with my shirt tailoring.

I have extremely slim arm compared with my weight. so when a shirt fits well on the body the sleeves are always too big/roomy, a headache always... I was not caring that much until today. I am considering to take all my shirts to a tailor to slim down the sleeves...

Any gentlemen here share the same problems? would that be worth a trip to town? how much would it cost per shirt?

Thanks in advance

Although others say they’ve done it with success and at reasonable expense, I don’t consider that an easy fix as OTR shirts have big armholes; narrowing the sleeve means altering the whole sleeve pitch.

To me, shirts don’t last long enough to be worth the investment in major alterations. Give it a try if you find a good local tailor, but as you replace your old shirts, consider switching to a good MTM outfit like Proper Cloth—assuming you don’t want to go full bespoke.

 

[Veremund]

Kent Wang or Berg and Berg grenadine tie?

Or other suggestions?

Shibumi Firenze ties from @Braddock are wonderful. I highly recommend.

https://shibumi-firenze.com/ties/grenadine-plain/
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...e-tailoring-official-affiliate-thread.628789/

 

[Ich_Dien]

Thanks yeah so it’s a new suit, untailored cuffs. Considering working buttons but wasn’t sure if that’s kosher for a black suit. Tailors are slim pickings here in mid Michigan and was offered 4 sleeve length options saying that shorter was more formal? I think I need to move out of here... Anyway, that’s my quandary. Thanks for your kindness.

Hopefully your shirts fit you well in the sleeve. If so, then tailor the sleeves of your jacket to show roughly 1cm of shirt cuff whilst wearing the jacket. Anything more looks ostentatious and anything less is too long.

 

[Joffrey]

Does any one have any recommendations on where to have MTM shirts (business and casual) made in Mexico City? I will be in the city (Cuahtemoc area) soon for about a week. Also my price range is $100 a shirt.

 

[justridiculous]

Does any one have any recommendations on where to have MTM shirts (business and casual) made in Mexico City? I will be in the city (Cuahtemoc area) soon for about a week. Also my price range is $100 a shirt.

@Betelgeuse

 

[Betelgeuse]

@Betelgeuse

Thanks!

Does any one have any recommendations on where to have MTM shirts (business and casual) made in Mexico City? I will be in the city (Cuahtemoc area) soon for about a week. Also my price range is $100 a shirt.

I don't know where you can get a nice MTM and the ones I tried, hasn't convinced me at all. Very limited collar types, you can't change them a lot and you can't change the stiffness of the collar. If you don't have problema with that, look for a Liverpool store, the have MTM for around $100 USD.

My best bet would be, go to Casimires Santana. This guy, Miguel Santana, is one of the best bespoke makers in Mexico. Now, don't panic pricewise because I wrote bespoke, it's Mexico. So from what I have asked, his shirts starts at around $100 USD. The only problem I see, it's the turnaround time. Send me a DM if you want.

 

[Kelvin0683]

What are some good places to buy a quality silver tie clip? The Tie Bar ones don't hold up that well in my opinion and I was looking at the one Kent Wang http://www.kentwang.com/cuff-links/tie-clip-silver.html offered, but it's currently out of stock.

 

[Veremund]

What are some good places to buy a quality silver tie clip? The Tie Bar ones don't hold up that well in my opinion and I was looking at the one Kent Wang http://www.kentwang.com/cuff-links/tie-clip-silver.html offered, but it's currently out of stock.

For the record, I love my KW tie bar. It’s my all-time fave and can highly recommend waiting for them to restock.

Edit: the gold one is still in stock. Grab one!