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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. BK Pogue

    BK Pogue Member

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    Sorry, should have been more clear. "Thanks in advance for any information you can provide", should be read to suggest I'm broadly fishing for any info those more knowledgeable than I might deem relevant or interesting about the shoe. I'd specifically like to know the last, but if you have any other information that you think may be of interest, by all means, throw it out there. Thanks.

    Also, what is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow?
     


  2. Britalian

    Britalian Distinguished Member

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    Anyone have an idea what is average price for a bespoke suit from Naples (exc. Rubinacci, maybe)?
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2012


  3. Kk1606

    Kk1606 New Member

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    Hi all. I'm having a bespoke suit made and it's only my second (and first 3-piece) so I'm fumbling along. I believe my tailor knows that I'm not really good at this so he's trying to brush over some flaws. Here are some of the pictures from my recent fitting. I really would appreciate some comments on what needs to be fixed!

    So far, I've got the following:
    1. Button stance on the jacket should be lowered by an inch
    2. Sleeves need to be further shortened
    3. My dropped right shoulder is pretty obvious. I'm guessing more padding required to the right shoulder?
    4. It's too tight around the waist
    5. Back is not clean around shoulder blades area (what needs to be done here?
    6. Pants drape at the rear needs to be removed

    Can I have some comments on the vest too please? I've never had one done before and don't know what to look out for. In the photo it looks a little unbalanced because the tailor pinned up one side - he's going to shorten it. What else have I missed? Thanks!


    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  4. Kk1606

    Kk1606 New Member

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    Hi all,

    I'm having a bespoke suit made and it's only my 2nd (and first 3-piece) so I'm fumbling along. I think my tailor has picked up that I'm new to this and is trying to gloss over some of the flaws. I'm attaching some photos from the recent fitting below, hoping to get some comments from you as to what needs to be fixed.

    So far, I've got the following:
    1. Jacket button stance should be lowered by an inch. Currently looks a tad disproportionate
    2. My right dropped shoulder is still pretty apparent. Im guessing more padding required for the right shoulder?
    3. Sleeves need to be further shortened
    4. It's a little too waisted
    5. The back is not clean especially aroound the shoulder blades (what should be done here?)
    6. Pants drape at the rear to be removed

    I really don't know about the vest. A couple of people have told me it seems a little odd somehow but can't articulate why. It looks a tad unbalanced in the photos because the tailor pinned up one side - he's going to shorten the vest.

    Anyway, please do drop some comments on whether I've missed anything. I appreciate the time. Thanks.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  5. TimeCollector

    TimeCollector Member

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    I am starting my career later in life than most. I am 31 years old. I joined the Army out of highschool because I had nobody in my family to help me pay for college. I studied for the CCNP and am now job hunting. I eventually want to get in banking and the stock market, so my clothing selection is with those ambitions in mind.

    I have a $500 gift card from Nordstrom and $1500 cash to spend.

    My plan is to buy 5 french cuff dress shirts @ $100 each at Nordstrom, 3 dress pants @ $150 each, 1 pair of black dress shoes @ $400, and a blazer @ $600.

    Is that a good start?

    In 6 months I will be comfortable spending another $1000.
     


  6. Gdot

    Gdot Distinguished Member

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    You sound like a man with a plan! I admire that.

    Have you a proper suit for interviews?
     


  7. Essential

    Essential Senior Member

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    Make sure you allocate some money towards tailoring!
     


  8. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Distinguished Member

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    Tough to say, since you haven't really said what job you're going for, where (geographically) you're looking for a job, what the dress norms are at the places where you'll be trying for a job, etc. That having been said...

    Many men (and I'm among them) don't favor wearing french cuffs without also wearing a suit or a jacket. If you're buying 5 french cuff shirts, it suggests that you plan on wearing french cuffs quite often. But you only talk about buying one blazer, and no suit. So I see a possible disconnect there.

    Next, your budget really isn't all that huge. Given this, I think you might be overspending. A decent dress shirt can often be had for about half the $100 you mention. (Brooks Brothers is having a 30% off sale on... I think this coming Wednesday.) (And don't limit yourself to french cuffs; barrel cuffs do have their place, too.) A perfectly satisfactory pair of black Allen Edmonds shoes can often be had for under $400. (The AE Park Avenue is something of a standard. It's practically "McBlackDressShoe." But it's by no means the only acceptable choice.) And $600 on a blazer is downright extravagant.

    More sensible might be to buy a $200 blazer (Anderson-Little offers a serviceable one for $179, with free shipping), and save yourself $400. Save another couple of hundred on shirts and shoes. Then take those savings and use them on a suit, a few neckties, and alterations. (Alterations are key. A man in a $400 suit that's been expertly tailored will usually look better than a man in a $1400 suit that's off by half an inch here, and three quarters of an inch there. He'll typically feel more comfortable and more confident wearing the suit, too.) Okay, this may wind up exceeding your budget slightly, but I trust you get the idea.

    Since you're operating on a budget, consider buying most of your ties from The Tie Bar. While I'd agree that they're not necessarily the nicest ties money can buy, they are about equivalent to the typical $40-45 department store tie, and they cost $15. I suspect they would meet your needs quite nicely

    In another 6 months, spend that additional $1000 on another suit (or jacket). A second pair of shoes (very worthwhile purchase - it's generally not a great idea to wear the same shoes, every day). Maybe a sweater or winter coat, if you're living in a climate that experiences chilly winter weather.

    But again, without knowing where you're going to be working, or what your job will be, or what the prevailing manner of dress is there, it's very difficult to tell you whether your plans are good, great, or awful.
    --
    Michael
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2012


  9. PantsCrotchGuy

    PantsCrotchGuy New Member

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    Ok, so I have a question, I'll try to keep it brief, this may seem like a weird question but hear me out, and anyone tell me if you have had similar experiences to this:


    Alright, so I have really thick, muscular thighs--my inner thighs actually rub together when I walk--and this causes my entire crotch-region (I'll try not to be too explicit) to get pushed up and out. The result is that if I'm wearing any normal, reasonably tight-fitting pants or shorts--then at its worst--it looks like I'm walking around with half of an erection. My crotch-region just bulges out more than what is typically normal.


    Again, without being too explicit, I'm assuming that with most guys, their twig-and-berries just hang straight down between their legs; mine rests almost completely horizontal, and therefore jut out.


    I've tried all sorts of different pants and shorts to correct this, to little or no avail. I typically just wear pants that are far too big for me to give that "rumpled" look so you can't tell, but this is very uncomfortable and obviously just looks unprofessional or weird if you're always wearing pants or shorts that are two or three sizes too big. It's therefore impossible for me to wear any kind of tight-fitting gym shorts or professional-looking slacks.


    I know this is a weird question but I am being totally legit, and would really appreciate any answers. I am normal sized down there, and I am of a medium build, so I'm not fat or anything else that would cause this, my thighs are just very thick. Thanks in advance for your responses.
     


  10. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Distinguished Member

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  11. Essential

    Essential Senior Member

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    Does anyone know if there's a picture that shows most tie widths? People post up pictures with a suit and tie and I can never tell what the tie width is.

    And what's the difference between silk, wool, and cotton ties?
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2012


  12. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior Member

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    Really nooby question: If I'm a 19" shoulder, 40" chest, with long arms and torso, does that mean I have to buy size 42L and get the chest taken in? Or canI still fit into some size 40L sport coats? Most of the ones I see are around an 18.5" shoulder, but the size 42 jackets are usually around 22" in the chest.

    Thanks!
     


  13. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Distinguished Member

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    What US size equivalent would JL's made in England 11 E have?
     


  14. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Distinguished Member

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    Last edited: May 19, 2012


  15. cptjeff

    cptjeff Distinguished Member

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    What tie width will be best for you depends on your frame. If you're a smaller guy, you may want something like a 3". If you're a larger guy, 3.75". Or just buy something within that range and don't obsess- it doesn't matter that much anyway, as long as it's not a huge mismatch with your jacket lapel or frame.

    As for the difference between silk, wool and cotton, they're made out of different things. Silk is typically smoother and more formal, and is an all season choice, cotton is lighter, wears a little cooler and has a more casual texture with less sheen. Wool is rougher, has no sheen, and is again a more casual alternative. Wears warmer, obviously.
     


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