1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,555
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2008
    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    It matters, and is dependent on a variety of factors - the type of tie in question, the lapel width of your jacket, your build, etc.

    If you wear an XL shirt, I'm guessing that you're probably not a particularly petite fellow (hey, if I'm wrong, I'm sorry). Such being the case, and given the lapels on the blazer I suggested, you could probably wear a regular width tie. This isn't a hard and fast rule - I'm a big fellow, myself, and some of my ties are skinny, although the majority are not. But without seeing you or knowing more, that'd be my advice to you. And if the skinny tie would've had you looking more young and hip, well, you're talking about wearing this to a business-related dinner, and not to some club in search of female companionship.

    Not something I've ever wanted to do, but whatever makes you happy, my friend.
     
  2. lostinfashion

    lostinfashion Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2013
    I'm more wide than fat but definitely not petite. I'll check out the wide ties. Thanks again for your help - I'll be back if things get crazy.
     
  3. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,555
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2008
    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    You could - a navy tie with a navy blazer can be a very good look. But you don't have to, and may find that bringing in another color makes things more interesting.

    For example, you might opt for something like a blue and [insert other color HERE] stripe tie.
     
  4. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2012
    The tie bar has one of those in wool that I really want.
     
  5. azumi

    azumi Senior member

    Messages:
    302
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Since I'm a small guy (5'8", 130Ibs) and I want to wear a single breasted mid - length coat, which color is most suitable to me, navy or honey?
    Thank you.
     
  6. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

    Messages:
    2,952
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    

    I'm assuming overcoat and not jacket.

    Purpose? Other coats?

    Blue will fill more needs. I'd get this one first. Or charcoal.
     
  7. azumi

    azumi Senior member

    Messages:
    302
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    In particular, I want to buy a new single breasted trench coat (blend cotton, garbadine etc) I want to know that whether a mid-lenght honey trench coat make me looks smaller than a navy ones?
    I think the navy is more versatile than the honey but I still don't own any kind of honey color coat.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  8. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    

    I think a blue blazer is a great way to start your wardrobe since it is so versatile. I personally would save the khaki pants for less dressy days- I think of them as equal to jeans- but better used when boating, golfing, etc. Not wedding or funerals- khakis are sport clothes.
    The advise you have received so far is great. I'd only add that you could get into a nice pair of stone, khaki or charcoal slacks for a decent price and really bring the outfit together much better than with khakis. Unless you are aged 15-28, in that case khakis/blazer/striped tie is a great preppy look. Hard to pull off when you get older. Older guys do better with charcoal/grey wool slacks or stone colored dress pants.
    Also- it is impossible to overstate the importance of wearing nice shoes. The best outfit can be instantly destroyed by bad shoes. If you want to know if a man has style, look at his shoes. Simple, conservative black leather shoes will be enough to keep you safe- no tread or rubber bumpers.

    Where are you located? Perhaps some members of SF might be able to suggest some local places to get into some good pieces on a budget?
    Best of luck with you outfit choices!

    __
    Edit: sorry- My iPad didn't quite get my reply right.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,005
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    What is the purpose of working buttonholes on a jacket? Costs me an extra forty dollars to have the sleeves adjusted. I know their historical purpose...do they have any anymore?
     
  10. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

    Messages:
    2,952
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    

    Well a trench coat is double breasted so you aren't looking for a trench.

    The general rule is lighter colours make you look bigger. Darker smaller.
     
  11. azumi

    azumi Senior member

    Messages:
    302
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Well, I think you are referring to a classic trench coat. I personally think that a modern trench coat can be single breasted. I know a lighter color makes me look bigger but somebody said that a small guy (shorter than 6') shouldn't wear a double breasted trench coat (especially a light color double breasted trench coat). So, I'm wondering that should I wear a light color trench coat (single breasted) since I'm only 5'8" :(
     
  12. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

    Messages:
    2,139
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    
    To show everyone else that you have expensive/custom-made clothing. Of course, to do this, you have to leave the last one unbuttoned.
     
  13. mkarim

    mkarim Senior member

    Messages:
    4,645
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2008
    


    ...and you can leave the last one unbuttoned to show your Rolex...
     
  14. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    I've always thought of them as a "nice touch" rather than a useful thing. Dressing well is about the details and we don't really have many places in which to add some tasteful flair. Working/surgeon's cuffs just shows (to anyone who knows to look) that you have spent some attention and money on your suit. Some folks wear the last button undone for a little bit of flash. I think it might be a bit gauche.. but I admit I have done it.

    When I had my first suit made with surgeons cuffs I read about their history and from what I recall surgeons asked to have them on their suits to keep their cuffs clean in surgery. This effectually separated them from the lower-classes and was a sign of stature.

    I think that last bit is where they still have a purpose, if any.
     
  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,005
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    I think I'll get more "Clags, youre missing some buttons" than anything else if I leave them unbuttoned. Perhaps I'll leave my shirt cuffs unbuttoned and try to pass it off as steez

    Also, if I suddenly crack and go Patrick Bateman on someone, I'll be able to keep the sleeves clean, so there's that, too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  16. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

    Messages:
    2,952
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    

    You can call a duck a cat but it's still a duck. A trench is double breasted. It has a belt plus a few other features.

    5'8 is pretty much average.


    [​IMG]

    Okay it's not a trench but he's basically your height and wearing a light coloured coat.
     
  17. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

    Messages:
    2,139
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    I'm not really sure there is a good argument for getting working button holes to keep one's cuffs from getting messy. It takes 20x as long to unbutton all of the buttons (less if you leave the last one undone) than it does to simply remove the jacket.
     
  18. AndrewST

    AndrewST Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    78
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2012
    Location:
    Los Angeles / New York
    I'm in a bit of a pinch - how do you advise packing suits into a large duffle bag? Same goes for shirts.
     
  19. Rumpelstiltskin

    Rumpelstiltskin Senior member

    Messages:
    3,041
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    [​IMG]
     
  20. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,624
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    :lol:

    Seriously though, please don't do this. It's a very gauche look.

    Really, they are just a "nice touch"--if you've got buttons there, they should work, right? Definitely avoid anything that comes new with working buttonholes as you won't be able to easily alter the sleeve length. I do have buttonholes put on most of my jackets just because it drives me crazy to have the non-working buttons, but yeah, they have no practical use.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by