Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.
How hard is it for a tailor to take in a sweater?
There's not enough fabric between the armhole and lapel. The tension there is causing the lapel to bow outward. You probably need to switch designer and/or cut.
The roll of the lapel should be much more natural, but the extra tension on the chest is causing it to bow strangely. Notice how the roll of the lapels are not forming a V to the button point, they are bowing out a bit. I bet if you button that top button the chest will be very tight. It shouldn't be, even on a 3 roll 2.5. I think if you got a size up and get it tailored it would drape better in the chest.
Question: On a suit jacket, how much allowance is usually available to be let out at the waist?
It is easy. It is alterations 101.
There is an entire thread on seam allowances in Men's Clothing: http://www.styleforum.net/t/265735/allowances-for-alterations-to-tailored-clothing/0_100[/img]
Thoughts? A lot of this may have to do with the fact that I'm slightly built up in the chest and have sort of swept back posture. Opposite of slouchy posture. (ATailor called it "erect" posture in the tailor thread)
I stand by what I said. I think you need to size up. You can even see the buckle in the roll of the far lapel. Also your vent is all messed up, I think sizing up and then going to a reputable tailor it will give them more to work with and make it look better.
Like you, I'm somewhat muscular in the chest and shoulders and saw the same bowing in the lapel on a specific jacket that seemed to fit great otherwise. Tailor told me the exact same thing - jacket was one size too small. When I went up one size (42L to a 43L) in that specific cut, the bowing disappeared.
I don't think it's as simple as "sizing up" to a 40R Isaia, though. That would throw off the fit everywhere else but the chest. Simply sizing up and having the a tailor hack down the shoulders, etc. would be very costly and wouldn't perfectly achieve the desired results.
I think it means looking for a different cut altogether, or going MTM/bespoke. But what specifically would a bespoke tailor do to compensate for the lapel issue? Increase the area in the chest while leave the shoulders the same?
For me, the 42L and the 43L both fit me the same in the shoulders. I know, you would not think so, but they did. The only difference was the absence of the bowing and a cleaner v for the lapels. The difference in the waist was also pretty negligible. YMMV.
Going up a size in a suit isn't going to affect the shoulders nearly as much as it will the chest. Suits are measured by chest size, not shoulder size. You won't have to touch the shoulders, trust me. Like I said the torso is even too small on you. I think you just might be used to wearing overly slim clothing. Many people, in attempt to wear clothes that fit end up wearing things too small.
It's a symptom of me always working down from the shoulders. Shoulder fit is key, and I hate the dreaded "divots." I guess it's a bit hard to gauge the fit in the chest and waist until you take fit pics.
I bought a new pair of Paul Stuart's tassle loafers via internet. The fit is quite comfortable, but I have kind of a heel slip when walking. The shoes don't feel big though. Are the shoes actually too big or could it also result form the shape of the heel? Can it be fixed?
Hey fine folks of MC...need your help. I have a wedding to attend in March and since it is the first such event since I've become interested in dressing correctly, I want to make sure I don't mess up.
Here is what I'm thinking, all suggestions and comments are welcomed:
- Navy suit (it is all I got so everything else will have to work around it...)
- White french cuff Brooks Brothers extra slim shirt
- AE walnut shoes
- Kent Wang grenadine burgundy slim tie
- Kent Wang white with blood red edge pocket square
- Viccel claret red socks
Open to suggestions on tie, pocket square and socks.
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