Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.
If you do, tell me as well.
Well I didn't mean the lobb's. I meant simple dark brown suede loafers.
I noticed the tendency of Americans to wear jacket that covers the shirt sleeves while Europeans tend to let the shirt sleeves pop out a bit. Is there some history behind this? Thanks.
Most Americans don't understand that you're supposed to get your jacket sleeves tailored to show your sleeves. That's about it.
I've seen this from fashionable figures, too. surely they're not that ignorant?
Purely conjecture on my part, but perhaps Americans are less familiar with the wearing of suits, and so less aware of the fact that some alterations are almost always needed to get a suit looking just right. Hence, they're less likely to take their suit to a tailor and ask for the sleeves to be shortened.
Like I say, this is pure conjecture on my part. But I have noticed that American men (especially young men) are far more likely than European men to wear dress shirts with too large a collar size for their necks. I have sometimes wondered if this isn't due to American men seldom wearing neckties (both as boys, and then later on in life). Hence, not understanding that while your collar shouldn't choke you, neither should it be oversized for your neck. If the wearing of neckties is/was more common in Europe than in the US, this would seem a reasonable explanation. If you see your father or grandfather or uncle wear a shirt and tie on a regular basis, you're less likely to grow up ignorant of how to wear them, yourself.
So many wardrobe practices which I regard as unfortunate derive, I suspect, from a lack of older male family members in one's childhood who could have served as role models of how a man should dress. I'm talking about 18 year olds who don't know how to tie a tie. 35 year old men who don't know how to polish their shoes (or even that shoes need to be polished). Men who wear their suit trousers down low, as if they were jeans. You know, that sort of thing. But I digress.
speaking about shirt collar, I can't help but buy shirts with collar that's too big for me. because I'm tall and skinny so small sized shirt fits my body but the sleeves are too short. so I have to buy medium sized shirts, hence the large collar for me. what should I do?
MTM or bespoke. It isn't as expensive as it sounds in case you wonder.
Buy properly sized dress shirts, which list a collar measurement and a sleeve measurement in inches (or in cm, in other parts of the world). Not shirts sized S-M-L-XL. That's how sport shirts may be sized, but not dress shirts.
If one's body is so unusually sized that even this isn't good enough to get proper fit, serviceable MTM dress shirts often cost little more than good quality off-the-rack dress shirts.
But since you suggest that medium sized shirts do fit your arms, you wouldn't appear to have freakishly long arms, just a somewhat skinny neck. Not an impossible combination to fit, even off-the-rack. I know that 14.5 x 34 isn't all that uncommon a size to find in stock. Is your neck really that much smaller than 14.5"? And if a medium sized shirt fits your arms, I'm guessing they don't need significantly longer than 34".
Not sure entirely what you mean by fashionable figures, but a lot of mainstream "fashion icons" are not really paragons of classical menswear knowledge. They just look good in the suits.
Too large? Seriously? One of the reasons half of them run around with the top button undone is they can't button them.
Cross posted from "In praise of brown" thread...
Brown experts... I need help pairing shoes with my dark brown trousers. The trou are flannel if that helps. I plan on pairing them with a light blue shirt and navy v-neck sweater. (casual Friday) Do i wear my burgundy wingtips? My dark brown suede derbys? My chocolate brown cap-brogues? Or my lighter brown (almost olivesh) whole cuts?
Nicola, I'll grant you that a fair number of men couldn't get their collar button fastened without mechanical help and a liposuction session. (And they not infrequently wear jackets which couldn't be brought anywhere near to being buttoned either.) But what I was talking about are young men, not overweight, wearing neckties around shirt collars a good 3 or 4 sizes too large for their necks.
Oh well, it's less disturbing to me than saggin'. You know, that practice whereby a young man wears ridiculously oversized jeans down below his waist, so his underwear may be displayed to everyone. And, of course, I find it far less appalling than much of what Thom Browne thinks looks good. But that's damning it with faint praise, indeed.
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