1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,051
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Wear them around the house and walk around on carpet for a few days to see if they loosen up a little bit.
     
  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Some people discuss how a collar should balance with ones face, but honestly I think a collar just needs balance in itself. Some degree of a spread collar will always look better than a point collar.

    You are going to have a tough time finding a read to wear linen suit for $3-400 let alone MTM. Linen is a very expensive fabric even if the labor is cheap. I would look for used stuff.
     
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    It will most likely soften. New shoes frequently give me aches and pains that go away after a handful of wears.



    Sorry, didn't know when your bedtime was. Were you wearing your shoes to bed? :confused:
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  4. hoth

    hoth Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
    When buying a suit, are the measurements given the measurements of the fabric or what the man should be?

    For example, a Benjamin 36R has the measurements of:

    Chest: 39"
    Shoulders: 17.15"
    Sleeve length: 25.5"
    Length from bottom of collar: 28.8"

    I believe my measurements are:

    Chest: 35.5"
    Shoulders: 16"
    Sleeve length: 24"

    Does this mean the suit is too big for me?
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Suits are measured by their chest in terms of labelled size, but measuring your chest and that of a suit and it being the same or close will never gaurantee a good fit. It is about proportion of fabric, where it is added, or lacks to come up with the measurement. These measurement guides online stores give are rough guidelines. However, 3.5" larger than your chest seems a bit big. Also, I dought your shoulders are 6" wide.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  6. hoth

    hoth Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
    Thank you for the help!

    Yes, I forgot the 1. My shoulders are 16" wide. So, it does seem the suit is a little big for me in all respects. Would a tailor be able to adjust all of those measurements?

    Also, a 36S has the same measurements with the exception of:

    Sleeve length: 24.5"
    Length from bottom of collar: 28.4"

    It sounds like that would be the better choice amusing a tailor fan help with the large chest.

    If it helps, these are the two suits I am looking at:
    http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-13035/Benjamin-Sartorial-Suit-cln--36R/Detail
    http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-4853/Benjamin-Sartorial-Suit-cln--36S/Detail

    (The only place that sells suits within 100 miles of me is MW, so I likely will have to purchase a suit online)
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Chests can only be altered with desireable results of about an inch or so. It might be ok, but I don't know. Best case try on some models in person somewhere and then buy online. Move out of the sticks, boy! :)

    It sounds like you are a small guy, so I would go with the short. But you would know better than me. How tall are you?
     
  8. hoth

    hoth Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
    Yes, I live in a very casual beach town in central California. Once I get my BS, I'll likely move to a larger town, maybe Portland...

    Anyways, back on topic.

    I am 5' 11" 145lbs.

    For a point of reference, here are two pictures of me. The first in a Benjamin 38R and the second in a J Crew Ludlow. I like the Ludlow's fit; however, it is cheap and made of cotton, not something I plan to keep.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    They both don't fit well at all. Look at all of the space around the collar. The gaping. Also the lapels look to be billowing out rather than falling straight down. I think you may have to try a different cut.
     
  10. D.B.Cooper

    D.B.Cooper Senior member

    Messages:
    105
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2011
    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Nasty collar gap on both.
     
  11. hoth

    hoth Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
    That is dissapointing to hear. A smaller size (36S instead of 38R) wouldn't make the difference? I will likely need to be a difference cut?

    Well, I don't have time to make a trip to Santa Barbera any time soon. Can you give me any suggestions of what I sould do next in my search? (budget 500 - 750)

    I don't need a suit right away, but I would like to get one. With my only option being bridal shops and MW nearby, I don't really want to keep buying online then returning them. How do I find the right suit for me?
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    It might make a difference a little bit, but looking at that giant collar gap and just how the chest is shaped I am leaning towards you needing a different cut. Remember what I said about straight across measurements? This is exactly what I am saying. A tailor cannot alter these issues you are having here.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  13. hoth

    hoth Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
    Alright, so, can you think of any suits that may better fit me? Or, am I going to have to just wait, and take a trip to try suits on?
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    You're going to have to bite the bullet, I am afraid.
     
  15. hoth

    hoth Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
    Alright, thanks again for the help. Looks like I'm going to have to learn what is the correct fit so I will know what to look for when the time comes.
     
  16. vonklark

    vonklark Senior member

    Messages:
    123
    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
    Is 35 % wool, 65 % viscosa, 120's suit good quality?
     
  17. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    

    Huh? H&M has linen suits right now for less than $100. The fit is pretty crappy, but they're pure linen. Old navy is selling linen and linen-cotton blend khakis again this year, I have a couple pairs of last years model and they're actually nice casual pants.

    The fabric is not that expensive. Nice linens perhaps, but the basic grades seem to be only a bit more expensive than cotton.
     
  18. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    

    Absolutely not. At the very least, you want pure wool, not a wool blend.
     
  19. vonklark

    vonklark Senior member

    Messages:
    123
    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
    Figured that, thanks. Then 55 % cashmerewool, 45 % polyester must be shit aswell?
     
  20. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    

    If it contains polyester, yes. Though the cashmere throws me- are you saying you've seen something that's a cashmere-poly blend? Because apart from some socks, I've never seen that. Cashmere is a much more expensive fiber, and since the primary objective of using polyester in suits is to make the fabric much cheaper, blending the poly with cashmere defeats the point.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by