Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    1. "Too high quality" a suit is, in the real world, not a problem. Particularly as you indicate you won't be wearing suits that often, which suggests that they're likely to be worn mostly on special occasions. Even if there's some credence to the notion of an "everyday" suit being too high quality, you don't appear to be shopping for "wear everyday" suits. If you're going to wear your suits mostly to things like weddings, funerals, presentations to the Board, professional interviews, the opera, etc., I can assure you few people will have a problem with them being of too high a quality level.

    Even for those of us who do wear suits on nearly an everyday basis, the problem with extremely high quality suits isn't that they make us look like trust fund kids (an utterly meaningless criticism, in this context), but that very high quality suits are often made of fabrics which are arguably less durable than their more moderate quality alternatives. A 150 fabric might be nicer than a 110, but if the 110 is "harder wearing," it may be the better choice for a suit that will be worn frequently. But such considerations are irrelevant to your situation, where the suits will be worn infrequently.

    2. Bear in mind that most suits are abandoned in less than many years not because they were of insufficiently high quality, but because most men are unable to maintain the same size body for many years. Few men have precisely the same measurements at age 30 as they did when they were 18. Fewer still have the same body at at 58 as they did at 33. Yes, a few do. But not many. Because even if you watch your weight and try to exercise regularly, our bodies do change over time.

    So, while it's perfectly fine to want a suit that you hope will last you many years, don't simply assume that it will.

    And, of course, those 4 bespoke shirts you're talking about aren't likely to last for many years, either.

    3. If you really want suits that you can wear for many years, consider that some styles are far more ephemeral than others. Currently, slim fitting, highly fitted suits are fashionable, at least in some circles. Buy a couple of such suits today, and even if they fit you perfectly in a dozen years, will you want to wear them? Maybe not. In 1976, leisure suits were all the rage. Far less than a dozen years later, you wouldn't want to have been caught dead wearing a leisure suit. An extreme example, I grant you, but the principle is valid - if you want a suit you can wear for many years, eschew all but the more timeless (which for men's suits are often the more conservative and traditional) styles. And consider that even those styles do evolve over time.

    4. I note that you're in Princeton, NJ. That's only about an hour's travel time from NYC. If you really want a couple of MTM suits and shirts, you might want to consider going into NYC, where there are likely to be far more expert tailors able to meet your needs, likely in a greater range of styles and price ranges.
    --
    Michael
     


  2. ethanm

    ethanm Senior member

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    ^ Great post, thank you. My thing with spending too much is I would like to avoid looking presumptuous in an interview. I have definitely considered going to the city but I figured I would see what people think of Hilton since he's right around the corner from me. I will check out his store next month and in the mean time research options in the city.
     


  3. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    An expertly tailored suit, made of top quality wool, will not leave you looking presumptuous in an interview, or anywhere else. Very few people are going to think, "Hmmm... his suit lapels exhibited subtle and understated pick stitching... I think I'll hire someone who was dressed less presumptuously."

    No. The thing about a high quality suit is that it doesn't shout out "Hey, look at me! I'm an expensive suit!" Rather, it attracts little notice, specifically because there's nothing wrong or flashy to attract attention. At most, your interviewer will remember that you were conservatively and appropriately dressed.

    (Well, okay, there are high quality suits that are vulgar and flashy and simply horrible. Suits intended to grab a person's attention by the throat and not let go. I'm sure we've all seen such monstrosities on the likes of the occasional pimp, Hollywood celebrity, professional athlete, rap artist, etc. They are high quality in the sense that they are made of excellent fabric, put together by a tailor of great technical competence, and they may cost a fortune. But they're not what we're talking about here.)

    The basic rule is, if you're going on an interview where wearing a suit is appropriate, wearing a high quality suit that fits you well will virtually never prove to be a mistake.

    But in fairness, if you're going on an interview where wearing a suit is appropriate, wearing even a very moderate quality and inexpensive suit is almost always perfectly fine, so long as it's neat and clean and fits you perfectly. In fact, better to wear the $250 suit that fits you properly, than a $2500 suit that's slightly too snug, or whose sleeves really should be shortened a little.

    Of course, as important as how the suit looks, is how you wear it. If you're wearing the greatest suit in the world, but you just aren't comfortable (psychologically, that is) wearing a suit, you probably won't look as good as the next guy, who is wearing a more moderate quality suit, but who wears suits often, and who is comfortable and unselfconscious in a suit and tie. If you're not at ease wearing your suit, it shows.

    And if you think the suit you're wearing will make you come off as presumptuous - even if that's nonsense - you won't be comfortable wearing it to your interview.
    --
    Michael
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2011


  4. Beav

    Beav Senior member

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    Blazer and sportcoat buttons -- can anyone recommend somewhere online that I can order nice front and sleeve buttons? I did a google search that didn't really come up with anything useful. If someone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.
     


  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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  6. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    The first class option is Benson & Clegg - http://www.bensonandclegg.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21

    Other possibilities include:

    http://www.britexfabrics.com/buttons/blazer.html
    http://www.ascuteasabutton.com/traditional_suit.html
    http://www.richardjamesweldon.com/
    http://www.mjtrim.com/Catalog/Category/9.aspx

    The steerage class option is to find some blazer on eBay that's being auctioned off dirt cheap due to it being a weird size or stained or torn or whatever, buy it, and loot it for its buttons.
    --
    Michael
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2011


  7. Beav

    Beav Senior member

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    guys, thanks for the button links! :)
     


  8. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

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    Hugo Boss Orange Label sportcoat for $200 worth it considering its my first sportcoat and I dont want to spend too much?
     


  9. anginaprinzmetal

    anginaprinzmetal Senior member

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    If it fits, I suppose it's alright... Have you checked the B and S threads... Steve Smith (Megathread Brooks Brothers) sells at really good prices. I got a couple of Brooks Brothers 1818 NWT sport coats for 170 each.
     


  10. zzdocxx

    zzdocxx Member

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    Easy questions:

    When I see something offered eg. on ebay in size eg. "48ML", or "46T", what does the M in ML mean, and what is T ? ? ?

    Thanks!

    (first post!)

    [​IMG]
     


  11. iroh

    iroh Senior member

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    i have seen this logo on many shoes, what does it mean?

    [​IMG]
     


  12. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    The "T" probably means "Tall", although usually it's "L" for "long". Not sure what ML stands for. Maybe "medium long?"


    What logo? Are you referring to the design on the toe of the shoe? That's not a logo, those are decorative perforations otherwise known as broguing.
     


  13. vafan13

    vafan13 Active Member

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    How legit are the "big" ebay resellers of "new" merchandise? In particular I had been looking at a number of overcoats from "specialplace". Seems fairly legit, ~27,500 feedback with 99.9% (looks to actually be closer to 99.99%) but when I look at the tag and it says (for example) $995 and jr is asking $460 I have to wonder.


    Thanks
     


  14. ameyers6

    ameyers6 Well-Known Member

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    Are the new ray ban 2140's 54mm the same as the old style tom cruise wore in risky business if not whats the difference
     


  15. iroh

    iroh Senior member

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    yeah, the design on the toe of the shoe, they all seem to have the same shape and design though, what is the significance of that design? it couldn't be a coincidence that all brogued shoes have such a similar pattern of holes.
     


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