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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    Does anyone know what happened to WillPower?
     
  2. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    I think it's all personal preference. I wear my lighter brown shoes on sunny days, and darker brown shoes when it's overcast or in the winter.
     
  3. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    I had my tailor put darts on my OCBD shirts and this has improved the fit of the shirts but I am considering having the "middle pleat" on the back of the shirt sown as well.

    What do you guys think?

    Is this common?

    If I wear them untucked, how long would you guys suggest the shirts be? They currently go past my crotch or right where it ends, I think its too long but I am not sure if this is the proper length and altering the length would make the shirt look weird.
     
  4. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    kind of contradictory directions here... if the shirt has a middle back pleat (which is there for extra room thru the shoulders) and you're wanting to dart the shirt, and possibly sew the pleat then the shirt is already too big. You should just start over, have shirts made to your measurements without a back pleat and shorter to your specifications. I have all my proper dress shirts made without a back pleat... and there are some that I wear properly tucked and some that occasionally are untucked, but for the most part those are different shirts with different cuts. Having a shirt that is able to be worn untucked will perhaps make it too short to wear in a tucked fit (the tucked/untucked thing has recently been discussed around here somewhere)...
     
  5. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior member

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    How is the quality of Gap's khakis or clothes in general?
     
  6. tom10167

    tom10167 Active Member

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  7. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    How do you tell the difference between Zegna tiers? For instance a pair of Ermenegildo Zegna label wool trousers for $400, but then a pair of cotton /cashmere chinos for $700. How can you tell the difference from regular Zegna and Couture?
     
  8. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    I'd like to know this as well. Saw a Z Zegna casual SC at Nordy Rack today that was pretty cool. Only thing tho' is it was originally $1K (wtf?) and was "on sale" for five hundred something, blended fabric of some sort (not 100% wool or cashmere or anything).... AND it was made in Mexico! Realistically I wouldn't pay more than 2 bills for that sucka.
     
  9. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    I found a great blazer in size 40r and I have 36, could it be tailored, or it's to big to get fixed?
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2012
  10. Gibonius

    Gibonius Senior member

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    Not likely to come out right and it would probably cost so much that you'd be better off just getting one in the right size to start.
     
  11. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    I see, thanks! Will skip it then :)
     
  12. zero neck

    zero neck Well-Known Member

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    2 questions:
    Is $35 to let the sleeves out on a suit a lot?
    Am I supposed to tip a tailor for this?
     
  13. legorogel

    legorogel Senior member

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    How do I differentiate between a good tie and a not so good tie (silk ofc)?
     
  14. Sir F

    Sir F Senior member

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    That's a good price, I pay like $55
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Essential

    Essential Senior member

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    I never bought a suit from BB before. I was looking at this: http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCat...&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=36 Short#

    I'm used to also being asked the pants size (I think the suit comes with pants?). I'm planning on getting 36S; if it does come with pants, what size would it be?

    Edit: Is the answer in the Alterations tab? It costs an extra $12 but allows you to input inseam/taking in the waist/hemming. I find it weird cause it asks you before you try the suit on to see where you need to take it in/hem.
     
  16. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    It looks like I'll answer my own question, the sewn stars on the inside waistband of the chinos means they are Couture label, so the SA said. Well It's nice to see that I wasn't missing something.
     
  17. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Yes, a suit includes pants. That's one of the fundamental characteristics of a suit - it includes both a jacket and a matching pair of trousers. (It may also include a vest, or a second pair of trousers. But basically, if there's either no jacket or no pants, it's not a suit. And let's not confuse the issue by bringing in talk of skirts, kilts, or one-piece "jumpsuits.")

    If it's a suit, it'll come with pants. (See above.)

    The size of the pants is based on the size of the jacket. If the jacket's a 36, the pants will usually have a waist measurement of around 30". Sometimes the drop from jacket to pants is 7" (or even a little more, in a few instances), other times it can be as little as 4" (say, in some "portly" sizes), but usually it's 6". I don't know, offhand, that the suit in question has a 6" drop; you might want to look into this, perhaps by emailing Brooks Bros. But if I were a betting man, I'd probably bet on 6".

    Usually this is about right, at least for a fair percentage of men. Since a 30" waist can often be let out an inch or two without too many problems, or be taken in by that amount without running into serious complications. (More than 2", and you often face tailoring issues which can be tricky to adequately address. This is why a man who wears, say, needs a 42R, but who has a 31" waist, can have a hard time with most suits, and may have to buy suit separates or made-to-measure suits. Same deal for an overweight man who wears a 44R, but who has a 42" waist.)

    Some alterations are routine and inexpensive - shortening the sleeves a little (particularly if there are no working button holes), or taking in the waist by half an inch. Other alterations are major, and expensive, and almost never worth considering - for example, changing the jacket's length, or significantly changing the fit across the shoulders or chest. If you receive the suit, and major alterations are needed, it's often smarter to return the suit, than to try to fix it.

    Well, if you purchased the identical suit last month, but just in a different color/pattern, I suppose you might know exactly what needs to be altered, and by how much. But maybe I'm overly cautious, in that I'd never have a tailor alter my suit, unless I was in the suit and he was sticking pins in it and/or making chalk marks on it, indicating exactly what he needed to do.

    In fairness, I do sometimes order chinos altered to a specific length. Sometimes. But there's a difference between telling Lands End that I want my chinos hemmed to 31.5", and getting a suit altered for optimal fit.
    --
    Michael
     
  18. Slopho

    Slopho Senior member

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    I was over at Neiman Marcus Last Call today and ran into some Neiman Marcus brand dress pants on sale. Anyone have an idea of the quality?? I did a brief examination and they looked lined to the knee, any help would be appreciated.
     
  19. Monsieur Ed

    Monsieur Ed Member

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    Anyone have an idea where I might be able to buy an OTR Cobalt suit? I've looked around but can't seem to find anything. If OTR isn't an option any suggestions for where to start?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
     
  20. Cordwinder

    Cordwinder Senior member

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    Japan
    Im going to Bangkok end of this week.
    I really need some business shoes. Any recommendations for mid ranged shoes I can find in 30cm?

    Quick web search, I found Findig and Udom Agg in MBK and in Central World Plaza Ragazze and Geox.
    Anywhere else I should look?
     

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