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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Liam O

    Liam O Senior member

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    Princeton, NJ
    I am shadowing a buyer for Bergdorf in NYC on Monday, and was told to show up in a relatively conservative suit (he said my ugly socks, belts and scarves would be fine since its a fashion related job), but there is a problem; it turns out since I've dropped ~60 lbs in the last year and a half, apparently all my dress shirts look like trashbags on me. I'm short on cash and time, so...

    Question: Is it ever acceptable to wear a button down oxford with a business suit?

    Suit in question is a navy blue microcheck (weave only, no other colors in it). I have a large collection of conservative oxfords, but I tend to think of them as country clothes, aka not businesswear, so I'm guessing I need to pick up a decent white dress shirt on short notice.... Right or wrong?
     
  2. harry2quinn

    harry2quinn Senior member

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    I'll go ahead and disagree with you. A navy sweater with black doesn't emphasize the contrast, but I don't see it as a wrong by a rule or necessity. It'll probably look just fine.
     
  3. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    It is almost always a perfectly fine choice.

    I am aware of the rule which says that OCBDs are not to be worn with shirts. However this rule never had anything like near universal acceptance - old photos pretty much prove this - and whatever acceptance it did once have has eroded over time to the point where it's almost meaningless today.

    If one wishes to refrain from wearing OCBDs with business suits, that's fine. But it's purely a personal choice. If one prefers wearing OCBDs with business suits, that's fine, too.

    It's akin to the rule against wearing brown in the City. Or against wearing a non-white dress shirt with a business suit. Or against wearing non-black shoes with a grey or navy suit. Rules which have been diminished in strength over the years to the point where their remaining significance is of little more than relatively limited situational importance. (For example, I might not care to wear a brown suit to an employment interview.)

    And yes, I recognize that in other parts of the world, different standards may exist. Many of these rules originated in London (the "City" in the aforementioned rule on wearing brown), and I'm led to believe that even today OCBDs with business suits are far less common there, than they are in, say, Manhattan.

    BTW, assuming your weight loss was intentional, I congratulate you. I'd also suggest that you reward yourself by maybe picking up an affordable - but perfectly serviceable - non-OCBD dress shirt, sometime soon. Particularly if it's on sale and there's some 30% coupon code floating around, a dress shirt from Lands' End might well fit the bill. It just sounds like you might be more comfortable having a non-OCBD option available to you, is all.
    --
    Michael
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012
  4. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    If you were going to shadow a lawyer or banker I might suggest against it, but doing something fashion-related I'm sure it would be fine.
     
  5. Sonny58

    Sonny58 Senior member

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    Does anyone know which model Grenson George Clooney is wearing on this month's Esquire?
     
  6. Liam O

    Liam O Senior member

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    Thanks, guys :)

    I was always a bit hazy on this rule, as my mother (who spent most of her formative years and college in the UK) never harangued me for wearing ocbd's with other suits (church, etc) but if I wear very conservative oxblood cap toes with a navy suit or grey flannels all hell breaks loose. Basically if she doesn't yell, I assume its not a hard and fast rule.

    I think I'm going to go scope out shirts, just to be safe I feel like I should wear a spread collar, because thats what I see this guy wear when he's headed to work. Ideally I'd really like to work for him if the grad school thing doesn't pan out, so I want to make sure I make a good impression if I meet his boss, etc. I'll keep it banker formal except for the heavy duty veggie tanned work belt with the liberty bell buckle and the scarlet cashmere socks ;)

    BTW I'm really proud of losing the weight, so thanks for noticing. I just stopped "grazing" in between meals, replaced breakfast with trail mix, stopped buying fat sandwiches (Rutgers thing, look them up) and replaced soda with unsweetened tea. Couldn't believe how fast I dropped back down.
     
  7. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    I'm about to buy a West End belt from Equus leather for business casual and can't decide between 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 width. I'm slim, 5'9", 150lbs, with a 30-31 waist. Anyone have a suggestion?
     
  8. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    I'd go with the narrower width, but then I'm 5'6" and 130lbs, so smaller than you are...
     
  9. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    London
    Looking for a recommendation on where to find a good pair of jeans in SOHO NYC. I'll be down there this Sunday. Looking for something selvedge in the $250 range. Must be dark, minimally branded, sturdy, at least 12.75 oz denim and fit my 34" wasteline (no slim fit). Any thoughts? Plz don't say uniqlo...
     
  10. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    anybody have any experience with WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie accessories? Been seeing them around more lately. Aside from a few articles I've read just wondering about any actual, real life accounts.
     
  11. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    How much should a black bespoke suit cost?

    I thought black would be a good color, because I attend many venues (concerts, parties, concerts) where a black suit would either be perfectly acceptable as a tux substitute, or just plain perfect. I'm considering bespoke because I want a well-made, perfectly fitting suit (I'm skinny with a drop 7-8).

    How much should it cost from a reputable tailor, and how long should it take to make it? I'll probably use Nick Lopez in Houston, if anyone is familiar with him.

    Anything else I should know before venturing into bespoken territory?
     
  12. FalconXtreme

    FalconXtreme Member

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    Aug 7, 2010
    [​IMG] I just bought these boots and i'm dying to wear them. I plan on wearing them casually maybe on an outdoor date, especially since its below freezing where i live. Only problem is I don't know what type of tops to match with the boots. ideas?
     
  13. ManCrush

    ManCrush Well-Known Member

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    The wang of America
    If you were going to London (I am in May), and wanted a bespoke suit, what tailor would you choose? I intend on getting my first bespoke suit in May, but don't have the experience that most of you have. I would like a heads-up as to where exactly to go, as my time will be limited. Thanks.
     
  14. dafein

    dafein Member

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    http://blueingreensoho.com/
     
  15. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    Boulder, CO
    

    This is not a simple, quick answer question. First of all think about charcoal, no black - it is better looking and much more versatile. As far as cost, there are many variables, starting with the cloth you want. If you know what style and features you want, go for it, but otherwise do some research here (the search function is your friend).
     
  16. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  17. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    If you don't know anything about suits, do a search here and read up. It will help if you have an idea of what you want going in. There are lots of good info on style choices, colors, fabrics as well as various tailors and their price points in addition to the overall bespoke process. If your time is limited, bespoke might not work as it can take a while and you should expect 2-3 fittings throughout the process.
     
  18. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    The same as a bespoke suit in any other colour.
     

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