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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. onix

    onix Senior member

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    I did, 2 years ago.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2011
  2. HerkFE

    HerkFE New Member

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    How much shoulder rise is acceptable in a suit?

    My only suit purchases have been custom Tailored suits done for me while stationed in Korea.

    Those suits have reached their end of life and I am now exploring OTR suits. I find that any moderate elevation in arm height leads to me looking like a Zombie in Michael Jacksons thriller video.

    Is this normal with all OTR suits? Is my body type just awkward and I require a custom tailored suit to keep normal arm mobility??
     
  3. VLSI

    VLSI Senior member

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    What's the secret to fastening the anchor button? The one on my peacoat faces inward and there doesn't seem to be any easy way to button it up.
     
  4. mlg321

    mlg321 Well-Known Member

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    About to buy them, should I size down with Sperrys? I wear an 11 in sneakers and my Clark's desert boots are a 10 and they fit nice.
     
  5. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    I believe Mason just makes shirting fabric. I've had Pink shirts and they are not worth the monet. Turnbull and Asser is said to make a very good shirt. I have some Jay Kos shirts made at the same factory and they are quite nice. They're very pricey.
     
  6. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    Too much padding in the shoulders, but that can't be changed. It doesn't look terrible, but it doesn't look sharp, either.
     
  7. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    Psyco Bunny makes good scarves. So does Pantherella.

    Check out ParkandBond.com. They have a good selection of stuff.

    You could also go to a department store like Saks, Bloomingdales, or Nordstrom, to be able to feel and handle the scarves before purchasing.
     
  8. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    If you'd like to look trendy, go with a navy peacoat or a slim, single-breasted camel coat.
     
  9. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    I have a jacket that is too big in the shoulders, and my tailor said he could make the shoulders smaller (although I didn't take him up on the offer due to price considerations). I've seen some pretty amazing things come out of a good tailor's shop, so if your tailor is reputable and experienced he just might be able to accomplish a complete downsize. Keep in mind, though, that no outcome can be guaranteed, even by the tailor.
     
  10. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    If raising your arms just a small distance causes the shoulders of the jacket to raise also, then the arm holes are too big. This is a problem you will find with almost all OTR suits. They are made so that even very large men can wear them, because that means more profit potential for the manufacturer. No, your body is normal-you aren't fat.

    I don't believe that a tailor can alter the size of the arm hole. Check out Ralph Lauren Black Label, as those suits have higher arm holes than most. Also, I'd highly reccomend going to a high-end department store (Saks, Bloomingdales) to try on suits, because that's the only way to ensure that the suit you buy will actually fit.

    If you go with OTR suits, you'll have to be content with a little "shoulder rise." Just try to keep the rise under 2 inches with your arms at 45 degrees.
     
  11. onix

    onix Senior member

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    He has small shoulders, natural would look even more sloppy.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2011
  12. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    That helps, thank you. I'll look into Turnbull & Asser. I also read Harvey & Hudson, and Hilditch & Key make a good dress shirt. I will probably look into all 3 of them then.
     
  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  14. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Hilditch and Key has an on-line sale right now, I believe.
     
  15. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    The best advice I can give you is to go to a store in person and try on blazers. If you order online, you can't be sure of getting a blazer that fits you perfectly, and the fit is pretty much the most important aspect of a jacket (or any other item of clothing, for that matter). There are a lot of good labels out there, but I won't mention any because I don't really have the first-hand experience to be making specific reccomendations.

    Go to Saks, Bloomingdales, Nordstrom, Barneys, or other high-end department stores, and you'll be sure to find a blazer or two that fits well and hits under the $700 mark. Stay away from low-end department stores like Macys and J.C. Penny, as those typically do not carry respected clothing labels.

    Oh, and unless this blazer is for very casual occasions, you should get a canvassed, not fused, wool blazer. If you don't know the difference between "canvassed" and "fused," do a quick search. Also, search for "pinch test."
     
  16. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    Canvassed versus fused has nothing to do with formality, just build quality. And fused stuff is better than it used to be.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2011
  17. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    What I meant was that he should get a wool blazer, not a casual unstructured cotton or polyester blazer, as wool is the most "formal" and can be used in both casual and dressy situations. Then, in the same sentence, I exhorted him to go with a canvassed blazer, not a fused blazer, as drycleaning causes puckering in fused jackets.

    Sorry for the ambiguous sentence. [​IMG]
     
  18. shiftyc

    shiftyc New Member

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    I'm new here but sorry if this get asked alot. I'm going to a wedding overseas.. and I'm going to be wearing a light blue dress shirt and black dress pants. Whaat is a good matching tie? Solid colors? Patterns? I read and searched that a navy tie would be a good option.

    Thanks.
     
  19. ethanm

    ethanm Senior member

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    People are going to tell you not to wear a tie without a jacket. Fair warning.
     
  20. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    I won't pester you about wearing at least a jacket, but since you mention it as an important detail, what country is the wedding taking place? Might help to establish the level of formality needed. To answer your question, a solid navy tie will be fine, texture or with a pattern but no added colors. It's more formal.
     

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