Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. jergensCsquad

    jergensCsquad Active Member

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    I just got into med school and want to buy a pair of nice shoes as a present to my self. I'm looking at a pair of C&J Hallams in brown. Would these be an appropriate shoe to wear when I'm in the clinic?

    Should I look for something more casual? a wingtip or a punch cap maybe?
     


  2. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    You sir, are a footwear identifying machine and don't think for a minute that your skills are not appreciated.

    Many thanks!

    Now, since I am obviously unfamiliar with footwear of this type, I'd like to inquire as to their purpose. Foul weather gear? Or perhaps there's a fashion aspect to them of which I am currently unaware. All advice and assistance in this matter is greatly appreciated.

    BTW, is the Dainite preferable to the Goodyear?


    Foul weather gear is a good use for danite soles, though they're not at all limited to such. The purpose of that type of sole is to have a sole that can deal with the elements better than leather but still maintains a fairly low profile (ie, no giant commando lugs).

    Also, those are still goodyear welted, just with the danite sole rather than a leather one. The goodyear welting refers to the method of attachment, not the type of sole. You could have those resoled in either leather or danite when they wear out.
     


  3. Digmenow

    Digmenow Senior member

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    Foul weather gear is a good use for danite soles, though they're not at all limited to such. The purpose of that type of sole is to have a sole that can deal with the elements better than leather but still maintains a fairly low profile (ie, no giant commando lugs). Also, those are still goodyear welted, just with the danite sole rather than a leather one. The goodyear welting refers to the method of attachment, not the type of sole. You could have those resoled in either leather or danite when they wear out.
    Thanks! Good to know about the resoling. Somewhere, in the dim recesses of my rapidly fading memory, I once knew that fact about the goodyear welting. I must have suffered a ... hey, is that a bunny with a pancake on its head?
     


  4. totenhosen

    totenhosen Active Member

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    Hi guys, I went to try on some jackets the other day and found the Modern Amusement Peacoat ... I tried it on and really liked it but at the back where there is a split it seems the stitching was done so the left side always sticks out. It's almost like they've left slack in the left hand side and stitched it on purpose so where the split occurs, the two sides aren't even (imagine stitching two fabrics together and introducing a "pinch" of slack into one side and stitching over it.. you'd get a bubble/wave effect and if you picked up your fabric the side with the slack would stand to attention).. Anyway I wanted to know if this was normal/desirable/fashionable? The pics are here. You will need to click on the ones that show the split at the bottom of the back. http://kaeho.com.au/product/modern-a.../pea-coat/764/ http://www.incuclothing.com/shop/pro...at%20-%20Black http://www.incuclothing.com/shop/pro...eacoat - Black I've attached the gap in case it's not obvious. In the pics here it's not that pronounced.. on me it is.. and even worse the bit above it seems to develop undulations as side-effect. I've marked these with white arrows of my attachment.. again in real life it's more noticeable.. On a business suit or sports coat I would consider this a defect. But after confirming all the other sizes at the store had it. The pics have it and so I emailing Incu and they either don't get what I'm talking about, or they think it's normal. They said they checked out the same model at their office, and that with the head designer and production manager there none of them picked up on anything that would be a quality issue... So my question is - what the ?? am I missing something? Do we want a tail? Do we want to have creases because the material is uneven? Should I buy it and have a tailor fix it? The rest of the jacket I really like... though not sure it's worth $300.. So if anyone has an opinion on this or could offer an alternative viewpoint I'd really appreciate it.
    [​IMG]
     


  5. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    [​IMG] Vs .[​IMG] (The D line on the jacket)

    The big difference between a coat's sleeve measurement and a shirt's is because the coat's sleeves are measured to the end of the shoulder, as you have illustrated above, whereas a shirt's sleeves are measured across to the center back. I have no idea why.
     


  6. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    So my question is - what the ?? am I missing something? Do we want a tail? Do we want to have creases because the material is uneven? Should I buy it and have a tailor fix it? The rest of the jacket I really like... though not sure it's worth $300..

    So if anyone has an opinion on this or could offer an alternative viewpoint I'd really appreciate it.


    I think it just doesn't fit the model very well, tightness over the hips is causing the vent to gape.
     


  7. sauldanielrodgers

    sauldanielrodgers Member

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    Can anyone recommend a reasonable tailor who will make a nice suit for me in London, and ball park figure
     


  8. TeeKay

    TeeKay Senior member

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    Best sub-$200 pair of Cords to pair with Alden Indys?
     


  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  10. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    I just got into med school and want to buy a pair of nice shoes as a present to my self. I'm looking at a pair of C&J Hallams in brown. Would these be an appropriate shoe to wear when I'm in the clinic?

    Should I look for something more casual? a wingtip or a punch cap maybe?


    If I really had to think about it, a balmoral is likely unnecessarily dressy for a clinic. That said, unless you are wearing something very fancy, people are unlikely to notice. The C&J Hallam model is a pretty standard cap-toe and if you like it, you will likely be fine with it. I would not recommend a wingtips or brogue due to the fact that the layman thinks they are very fancy shoes (rather than casual) and the "rich doctor" archetype is a bad image to have at work. The safest option is likely the C&J Ashdown in dark brown.
     


  11. JamesX

    JamesX Senior member

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    So after reading every post I could find about shoe trees, I am...still uncertain. A great deal of people seem to like the woodlore epics, but there have been some complains of poor fit or stretching. I am a TTS 11.5 or 11 in barrie last and need to buy shoe trees for the new shoes. As alden and C&J (for polo) do not offer lasted trees and I am stuck with the RTW options. My concern is that the shoe trees will cause poor fit of the shoe over time and would like to get the shoe trees right the first time around (I know a lot to ask). I have basically narrowed it down to the following as the size cut-off points put an 11.5 around the middle of the sizing, which seemed the most logical. I am was particularly trying to stay away from being on the low (i.e. shoe tree being slightly too big).

    This:

    http://www.cedarvillestore.com/p-14-...shoe-tree.aspx

    or this:

    http://www.bexley.com/Bexley/shoe-Em...Referrer=12141

    or even:

    http://www.shoeandfootcare.com/pc/10...-p102-001.html

    The bexleys are likely a pain to order, but they offer actual sizes. Am I over thinking this?

    My favorite shoe tree is Rochester's Delux Split Toe trees.
    http://www.onecedarlane.com/detail.p...&catid=2&sort=
     


  12. ggtk

    ggtk Active Member

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    Can someone offer a quick critique of the fit of this suit? Specifically the shoulder area. I have an athletic build so I'm getting those notches at the top of my shoulder. I'll get a chance to post up better pics over the weekend..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  13. cromulated

    cromulated Senior member

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    Has anyone come across a last from the likes of Barker, Allen-Edmonds et al that fits like the Edward Green 202, but at a significantly lower price point ($300ish or so)?
     


  14. zerostyle

    zerostyle Senior member

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    Looking for a shoe suggestion. Most common wear will be in the office. Business casual (button-down shirt, no tie or suit). I almost always wear medium-gray slacks, and am looking for a versatile brown shoe. I currently have: - Black cap-toes (Florsheim Imperial Canfield) [​IMG] - Burgundy punch cap-toes (quarter broguing) (Johnston & Murphy Aldrich II) [​IMG] Again, I already own those 2 shoes above. What other brown color is the most versatile for primarily grey pants, with the occasional navy? More of a tan color? Or go with dark brown instead? For some reason I like the burgundy shoes better with navy or suits, but feel awkward to me with grey pants. Also, for style - go with another cap-toe? Or something else? For some reason wingtips/broguing feel kind of old-man ish to me. The only thing I'm definitely ruling out is loafers. So undecided...
     


  15. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    Does anyone know of a cobbler in NYC that can resole a pair of Alden's and apply an Antique Edge Trim + re-dye similar to the shoe in the link below?

    I have a pair of Alden Modified Last Split Toe in Brown (549) - thinking about changing the color to burnished Walnut and adjusting the edge trim as part of a re-sole.

    http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-men..._cordovan.html

    Not sure whether to send it back to Alden for a Refurb (how long is the wait time these days) or take it back to Moulded Shoe or another place in the city. The shoes have been resolved twice already.

    Any advice / input would be greatly appreciated. Mike147
     


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