Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. wizard7926

    wizard7926 Well-Known Member

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    How much should I expect to pay a competent tailor to get the torso tapered and sleeves narrowed on a dress shirt?
     


  2. StephenHero

    StephenHero Black Floridian

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    2" of waist is usually the max for a jacket before it creates poor lines and puckering from the shoulders to the outer lower back. The shirt tapering depends on the chest and armhole dimensions. You generally have to raise the armhole and slim the chest to get the arm tapered.
     


  3. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

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    What makes a collar fold and fall down just over the button.
    [​IMG]
    You can see this shirt is almost doing it, but i have some older shirts that are horrible for this.
    I need to keep a tie knot very tight and the tie up high to keep the collar from dropping.

    Anyway to fix or know what causes it?


    Do you iron by hand? I think this has to do with how the shirt is pressed, not by any wear to the shirt itself. I always have this issue with shirts that I have cleaned at our local dry cleaner, but if I iron them myself I can keep that bit of collar nice and stiff.
     


  4. officeboy

    officeboy Senior member

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    Do you iron by hand? I think this has to do with how the shirt is pressed, not by any wear to the shirt itself. I always have this issue with shirts that I have cleaned at our local dry cleaner, but if I iron them myself I can keep that bit of collar nice and stiff.

    I go back and forth, but generally end up doing my own ironing. (The cleaners are just too far for regular work like shirts) It's not that I can't press it nice and crisp, but that the interfacing or whatever makes it stiff inside has had a crease worn into it and no amount of pressing will keep it propped back up.
    I've added a line where the fold usually is, it will cause the whole top of the color to droop down on the affected side.
    [​IMG]
     


  5. BoomDiggs

    BoomDiggs Senior member

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    For a professional job interview (associate attorney position), all other things being equal, would you wear a pinstriped or solid suit?

    Solid. Good luck.
     


  6. Peter1

    Peter1 Senior member

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    Hello, I'm looking for an OCBD that fits like BB slim fit, but with a smaller (and lower) collar. Would prefer made in USA, price up to $150. Imported options welcomed too, though.

    Thanks in advance.

    Edit: should add that I'm looking to wear with tie and usually a solid color suit, if that makes a difference.
     


  7. Peter1

    Peter1 Senior member

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    I go back and forth, but generally end up doing my own ironing. (The cleaners are just too far for regular work like shirts) It's not that I can't press it nice and crisp, but that the interfacing or whatever makes it stiff inside has had a crease worn into it and no amount of pressing will keep it propped back up.
    I've added a line where the fold usually is, it will cause the whole top of the color to droop down on the affected side.


    I have had shirts that eventually developed this condition. Nothing seems to fix it, so out they go. I think it may have something to do with the neck being a bit tight, and something in the collar gets stretched out.
     


  8. Mr.P

    Mr.P Senior member

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    What causes the horizontal bunching at the chest just beyond the armpits, as seen in the shirt below?

    Also, it seems like the sleeves are rolling forward, causing the vertical folds just below the shoulder area. Many of my shirts have this problem. Would wider sleeves solve this?

    [​IMG]
     


  9. officeboy

    officeboy Senior member

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    What causes the horizontal bunching at the chest just beyond the armpits, as seen in the shirt below?

    Also, it seems like the sleeves are rolling forward, causing the vertical folds just below the shoulder area. Many of my shirts have this problem. Would wider sleeves solve this?

    [​IMG]



    Based on the pulling at the button I would guess shoulders and chest are just too tight.
     


  10. ArsenalDan

    ArsenalDan Senior member

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    Do J&M Aristocraft fit TTS?
     


  11. zerostyle

    zerostyle Senior member

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    Anyone know anything about the "Hickey" line from Hickey Freeman? They have some stuff on Gilt right now for reasonable prices ($400-$500 for suits, $300 for a blazer).

    Q1. Are they fused, half canvassed, or full canvassed?
    Q2. Does anyone have any measurements for a 38S or 38R? Mostly interested in knowing how wide the shoulders run and how long the jacket is.
     


  12. Slopho

    Slopho Senior member

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    Someone posted a pretty detailed listing of suit quality highest to lowest, I don't think it was stuck but I'd like to find it to print it out. I found it very useful.
     


  13. AE7

    AE7 Senior member

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    borrowed a picture from an old thread; the problem is not with a sportcoat, but with a shirt. [​IMG] there is an excess fabric that makes a horizontal fold/ripple on the shirt yoke. quesiton: Alter it OR return it? thanx
     


  14. Miha28

    Miha28 Active Member

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    Spotted this trench coat with couple of holes in it in a vintage shop. Is it possible to sew or somehow repair them/make them less visible?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  15. AE7

    AE7 Senior member

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    Spotted this trench coat with couple of holes in it in a vintage shop. Is it possible to sew or somehow repair them/make them less visible?


    highly dependable on the fabrics. since trenches are usually made with some non-natural fibers for waterproofness it is highly unlikely to come out nicely after repair if anyone would do it at all.
     


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