Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Seat meaning hips or seat meaning crotch? Sorry, I am very new to this.

    Seat meaning ass.
     


  2. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    ... in continuation of the convertible cuff:

    [​IMG]

    is there such a thing as an 'single' french cuff? -would it be terribly faux pas to convert my convertibles into 'singles' by removing the buttons?

    I'm asking since this is my first mtm shirt and it's a little off. That is, the 'normal' button position make the cuffs too big (sleeve length is a couple of cm's too long, causing them to slide down/out of jacket sleeves) and the 'tight' button position keeps things in place but make my hands look like this:

    [​IMG]


    'Single' french is just right though... -aside of course from the fact that I technically would be guilty of Costanza-ing... [​IMG]


    1. Your shirt sleeves are SUPPOSED to protrude from your jacket sleeves about half an inch. It 'frames' the jacket and in a world where rules are meant to be broken, this rules stands as close to incontrovertible as any in the sartorial world.

    2. YES, although not very popular. There are photos of Michael Caine in 'Get Carter' and JFK sporting single, i.e. not folded back cuffs with links. This is also the correct style of shirt to wear with white tie, (along with wing collar). It looks a bit unsubstantial to me but I suppose some people can pull it off.
     


  3. St. John

    St. John Member

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    Any thoughts from Canadian forum users on Coppley MTM suits. I'm looking at getting one done. the fabric is a Loro Piana Super 120. I've never really looked at Coppley in the shops before. the price tag would run to a little over 1100, with vest.

    Thanks.
     


  4. BoomDiggs

    BoomDiggs Senior member

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    I am looking for a transitional season coat (going into and coming out of the midwestern winter). Does anyone have experience with the Filson Mackinaw Cruiser? Does this fit the bill or is it too heavy?
     


  5. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Since I am told that The Tie Bar ties suck total ass... anybody have some recommendations for moderately priced solid ties, say, $30 or less? I'm wanting to add some wool ones to my collection. (Not knit ties though. Don't have any use for those.)
    It is really hard to find new, decent-quality silk ties in that price range let alone wool ties. Even a mid-range silk tie such a Brooks Brothers is still $40 or so on sale. Wool ties are generally less available at the lower end of the range. I am selling some brand new one wool ties (see my signature) but even those are more than your $30 target price.
     


  6. ArsenalDan

    ArsenalDan Senior member

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    If the vent(s) on a jacket do not like completely flat when your arms are at your side, is the jacket necessarily too small? In what dimension? Can it be an easy tailor fix?

    I kind of run into this problem a lot since I am really a 39R, which is a rare size to find at thrift stores. 40s are too big, and 38s are great aside from that issue with the vent -- no notable pulling. Thankfully, my first and greatest score, a Zegna blue blazer for $5, was a 39. [​IMG]
     


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    How did the alterations turn out on this jacket? Do the sleeves need narrowing? Before: [​IMG] After: [​IMG]
     


  8. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    How did the alterations turn out on this jacket? Do the sleeves need narrowing?
    When you posted this pic in another thread I immediately thought the sleeves needed narrowing. I didn't want to say anything, because not a lot of people want to do it. I have a couple of jackets that would benefit from sleeve narrowing, but I don't feel like I want to spend money on it right now. I still think the back is not ideal. Looks like the waist was taken in abruptly and aggressively. Overall, it looks good for a casual jacket imo.
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    When you posted this pic in another thread I immediately thought the sleeves needed narrowing. I didn't want to say anything, because not a lot of people want to do it. I have a couple of jackets that would benefit from sleeve narrowing, but I don't feel like I want to spend money on it right now. I still think the back is not ideal. Looks like the waist was taken in abruptly and aggressively. Overall, it looks good for a casual jacket imo.
    I don't think it looks terrible, but somethings sort of off. Did my tailor take the waist in too much? Keep in mind I have a pretty severe drop. (8'')
     


  10. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Honestly, it looks like you needed a 36 (I know they don't carry that size). It's not bad, but not perfect either. Forget about whatever you think is not right and wear it. It's good enough.

    Also, your tailor might not be skilled enough. Think about it...
     


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Honestly, it looks like you needed a 36 (I know they don't carry that size). It's not bad, but not perfect either.

    Definitely not. I think my tailor went overboard on the waist suppression.

    The shoulders terminate exactly where they're supposed to. If I went with a 36, I'd be wearing a shrunken jacket. It looks like there slight overhang because it's unbuttoned.

    When a tailor brings in the waist, does he trim off the unused material? I think I'd like to let out the waist slightly and narrow the sleeves (to eliminate the armpit bunching).
     


  12. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Definitely not. I think my tailor went overboard on the waist suppression.

    The shoulders terminate exactly where they're supposed to. If I went with a 36, I'd be wearing a shrunken jacket. It looks like there slight overhang because it's unbuttoned.

    When a tailor brings in the waist, does he trim off the unused material? I think I'd like to let out the waist slightly and narrow the sleeves (to eliminate the armpit bunching).


    It's also the armhole issue. From what I see it is too low. That's a limitation that you cannot get around. The tapering of the waist starts right where the armhole ends. Ideally, you would need a higher armhole and for the tapering to extend higher up your torso. I don't think you can do anything here besides letting it out a little. But then it will be too loose in the waist.
     


  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    It's also the armhole issue. From what I see it is too low. That's a limitation that you cannot get around. The tapering of the waist starts right where the armhole ends. Ideally, you would need a higher armhole and for the tapering to extend higher up your torso. I don't think you can do anything here besides letting it out a little. But then it will be too loose in the waist.

    My tailor is usually pretty well regarded. He's turned up in a bunch of SF threads on DC tailors. He's no William Field, but pretty competent. Still, I can't pinpoint why it looks so mediocre.

    Paging Despos...
     


  14. Franky

    Franky Active Member

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  15. Mudhiker

    Mudhiker Senior member

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    Which AE Penny Loafer is a better value at the price? Also what is better a 270 or a 360 welt? The Randolph http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...ategory=120552 or The Westchester http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...ategory=120552
    The main difference (other than the welt) is that the Randolph has a moc toe. I personally prefer the look of the Westchester, though the Chili Grain Calf of the Randolph is kind of nice. How do you plan to wear it (and which color do you like?) If you are just getting black or dark brown, I think they will be equal quality, but the Westchester is a bit more appropriate if you are going to wear it with a suit. (It's kind of a dated look but still common.)
     


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