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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    NE PA
    Alright I'm an idiot. Any answers though? So far answers are less plentiful here than comments telling guys how wrong they are. I hopefully someday I will be in the cool club...
    I think what you're referring to is a phenomenon that occurs when the pants are too tight below the waist in your hip area. The tailor has two options. 1. Let out the pants, which is usually not an option unless there's additional material to do so. 2. Rebuild the pocket with a different opening angle, which also may not be possible if there is not enough material. Try going up a size, then having the tailor take in the waist so it fits properly on your hips. Also consider pleats for future purchases as pleated pants generally have more room in the hip area.
    Can a tailor do anything to keep sleeves from raising half way up my arms when I stretch out to conduct?
    Sleeves of shirt or coat? If it's a coat then you need higher armholes; this can be an alteration on certain RTW items but the cost can vary dramatically. It it's a shirt then you need longer sleeves.
    I was thinking of getting a made to measure jacket in linen. But what do people think about this 'grape' sort of color? I Like it but I'm not sure it will be suitable for wearing to work (where a sportcoat & tie are the dress code). What do the SF people think? [​IMG]
    Definitely not grape to my mind, but the colour works, especially in hot weather when you'll be wearing linen. To reduce the costumey effect pair it with subdued pants and a simple tie.
    Can anyone help me identify the two main materials on this jacket (both the lining and navy exterior)? It's by a swiss company called Strellson. The contrast collar is corduroy. I'd like to ID the other materials because I like them and hope to find other outwear made from the same stuff. The navy seems like canvas but with a softer hand.
    It's impossible to say without physical examination, but I'd bet the exterior is a cotton canvas and the lining looks synthetic.
     
  2. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    NE PA
    What is the quality/price ratio on this Brooks Brothers summer sportcoat?

    It's imported, half canvas, silk/linen/cotton blend.

    $400


    Looks nice, and even the imported BB sport coats are usually pretty serviceable. Only hesitation I would have is I don't see the %s of each for the blend. This could indicate BB doesn't know, in which case I would question their oversight and quality control.

    The cleaners shrunk my linen jacket. What can be done? When I took the jacket to my tailor, he suggested I go back to the cleaner and ask them to use vapor to try and stretch out the sleeves, which is where I notice the shrinking. Is this pointless? Can linen/cotton "restretch"?

    I've never heard of being able to "restretch" linen, and to be able to "restretch" it in exactly the correct proportions sounds nigh impossible. What were the care instructions on the tag? Does it appear the cleaners disregarded the instructions?
     
  3. CHECKstar

    CHECKstar Senior member

    Messages:
    667
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    Mar 29, 2010
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Staying in London for a week for work and am looking to buy a pair of Loake Burford's. Any ideas where I can pick them up? If it helps I am staying on Liverpool St.
     
  4. SartorialConductor

    SartorialConductor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 2, 2011
    Location:
    Ohio
    I think what you're referring to is a phenomenon that occurs when the pants are too tight below the waist in your hip area. The tailor has two options. 1. Let out the pants, which is usually not an option unless there's additional material to do so. 2. Rebuild the pocket with a different opening angle, which also may not be possible if there is not enough material. Try going up a size, then having the tailor take in the waist so it fits properly on your hips. Also consider pleats for future purchases as pleated pants generally have more room in the hip area. Sleeves of shirt or coat? If it's a coat then you need higher armholes; this can be an alteration on certain RTW items but the cost can vary dramatically. It it's a shirt then you need longer sleeves. Definitely not grape to my mind, but the colour works, especially in hot weather when you'll be wearing linen. To reduce the costumey effect pair it with subdued pants and a simple tie. It's impossible to say without physical examination, but I'd bet the exterior is a cotton canvas and the lining looks synthetic.
    Great advice. I think I will just head to a tailor and ask. New town so hopefully I can find a nice,reasonable tailor. And yes it's a coat. Oh and I've tried pleats and looks I'm smuggling a melon. Haha not a good look.
     
  5. easy_golfing

    easy_golfing Senior member

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    798
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    Jan 30, 2011
  6. inq89

    inq89 Senior member

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    Mar 23, 2009
    I am nearing a 42 chest due to weightlifting but am lean and stay around a 32 waist. Since suit makers don't have drop 10 suits, do I have to resort to buying suit separates? I'd like to buy my first legit suit (1818 fitzgerald) but it seems BB 42 suits are only available in 36 pants. Can a tailor take in 36 pants to a 32 without drastically re-cutting it?
     
  7. SartorialConductor

    SartorialConductor Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Ohio
    Any suit brands that usually have higher cut armholes? I'm hoping that'll stop my shoulders from rising to my ears when I bring my arms up.
     
  8. LanceW

    LanceW Senior member

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    Jan 23, 2010
    Location:
    Little Rock, AR
    Any high end trench coats or Loro Piana storm system to fit a 52L?
     
  9. Dan e gee

    Dan e gee Senior member

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    Oct 15, 2009
    Location:
    North London UK
    I noticed a great Isaia, and a nice Boglioli suit without buttons on the sleeves, just basting.
    This kinda put me off buying them. What is the general consensus regarding buttonless sleeves on jackets?
     
  10. Mac

    Mac Senior member

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    Dec 13, 2010
    Location:
    Glasgow, Scotland
    The "buttonless sleeves on jackets" are there so your tailor can get the correct sleeve length for you, just like unhemmed trousers. The respective Isaia and Boglioli suits should come with buttons for the sleeves.
     
  11. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    Location:
    NE PA
    what shoes are these

    [​IMG]


    Nice set. I'd bet money those are Aldens.

    I am nearing a 42 chest due to weightlifting but am lean and stay around a 32 waist. Since suit makers don't have drop 10 suits, do I have to resort to buying suit separates? I'd like to buy my first legit suit (1818 fitzgerald) but it seems BB 42 suits are only available in 36 pants. Can a tailor take in 36 pants to a 32 without drastically re-cutting it?

    Yes. But consider the Regent model, which to my understanding has a 7" inch drop to the Fitz's 6".
     
  12. porcelain monkey

    porcelain monkey Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jul 13, 2008
    Location:
    Boston
    I am nearing a 42 chest due to weightlifting but am lean and stay around a 32 waist. Since suit makers don't have drop 10 suits, do I have to resort to buying suit separates? I'd like to buy my first legit suit (1818 fitzgerald) but it seems BB 42 suits are only available in 36 pants. Can a tailor take in 36 pants to a 32 without drastically re-cutting it?

    That's the outer limit, but it can be done.
     
  13. Dan e gee

    Dan e gee Senior member

    Messages:
    177
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2009
    Location:
    North London UK
    The "buttonless sleeves on jackets" are there so your tailor can get the correct sleeve length for you, just like unhemmed trousers. The respective Isaia and Boglioli suits should come with buttons for the sleeves.


    Thanks for the reply. Thing is I hope the buttons are with the suit when t's sent. I'm going for the Isaia
     
  14. Hotel Guy

    Hotel Guy Senior member

    Messages:
    116
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    Feb 3, 2011
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Found a great pair of oliver peoples sunglasses the other day at the mall (Maceo - smoke). Does anyone have a reputable recommendation for a good place online where I might be able to save a few bucks?
    Ive looked around but oliver peoples dont seem to be sold through too many retailers. Thanks
     
  15. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
    4,536
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    I am nearing a 42 chest due to weightlifting but am lean and stay around a 32 waist. Since suit makers don't have drop 10 suits, do I have to resort to buying suit separates? I'd like to buy my first legit suit (1818 fitzgerald) but it seems BB 42 suits are only available in 36 pants. Can a tailor take in 36 pants to a 32 without drastically re-cutting it?

    No, that would almost certainly require a re-cut. Same for almost any other major change in waist size.

    There is another option. Look for an athletic cut suit. Try searching the forum for threads with lists of them.
     
  16. JamesX

    JamesX Senior member

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    Irvine, CA
  17. zanderman

    zanderman Well-Known Member

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    Jan 17, 2011
    What (affordable) brands make a larger shirt collar? I want something with 3.25-3.75 inch points, ideally.
     
  18. easy_golfing

    easy_golfing Senior member

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  19. JamesX

    JamesX Senior member

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    Irvine, CA
    the suede in the picture looks to be lighter. or is it the same?
    I think they are different colors. Linked the site because it tells you the last, maker, and a rough price range. My favorite color for that shoe is actually blue [​IMG]
     
  20. refinery

    refinery Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
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    Oct 6, 2009
    Location:
    us
    Hi, I have a question about the fit of Aquascutum slim fits.

    Comparable to Express/UC of Benetton/Hugo Boss Black or other mall brands, how does the Aquascutum slim fits squeeze in between those brands and etc.?
     

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