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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. silylether

    silylether Member

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    Hi, new here!

    I know it's bad to buy orphaned suit pieces and try to match them because the color often won't match, but does the same hold true for tuxedo separates? Is the color harder to match for, say, midnight blue over black?
     


  2. Archivist

    Archivist Senior member

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    Hi, new here!

    I know it's bad to buy orphaned suit pieces and try to match them because the color often won't match, but does the same hold true for tuxedo separates? Is the color harder to match for, say, midnight blue over black?


    Yes. Mismatched blacks or very dark blues are just as bad as mismatched pieces in other colors.
     


  3. Archivist

    Archivist Senior member

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    So I just received a pair of shoes in the mail and I am having a hard time telling if they are to big or not? If I tie them tight they seem fine. I can't really walk in them because then I can't return them. Any ideas on how to tell? My other dress shoes are 8.5 and these ones supposedly fit true to size. There is a fair amount in the toe box because they are long and come to a point. Something about them doesn't feel right. It might be because I don't own too many dress shoes and I am comparing them to the fit of other non dress shoes I have.

    Walk around on carpet a bit.

    Dress shoes should have some room in the toe box. They should fit your foot and be neither tight nor loose. The heel should not slip, though that's a hard one to judge, because it might slip a bit the first few times you wear them until it breaks in a bit.

    You say something isn't right. Could you be a little more specific? How does it not feel right?
     


  4. Archivist

    Archivist Senior member

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    Okay I'm a beginner but I think I know the answer to this. Just need to check. A friend of mine is wearing a black suit with red threads on the shoulder line and along the cuffs. I think this looks like the jacket is unfinished and/or those threads need to be cut. He says it's intentional and part of the jacket.

    Who's right? Is this egregiously foolish?

    Thanks


    Hard to tell without pics, but that sound like basting thread, which should be removed. Unless this is some low rent "stylish" getup?
     


  5. odiv

    odiv Well-Known Member

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    I would not wear that shirt with a suit of any kind. The problems with the suit you have are that the colors and pattens are too similar. With that tie, switch to a light blue shirt.

    Yeah, after looking at it for a bit it was clear that I shouldn't be wearing them together. So much so that I'm not sure why I posted it in the first place. Thanks.

    We'll see how it goes with gray, but maybe you're right that it's too busy.
     


  6. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Okay I'm a beginner but I think I know the answer to this. Just need to check. A friend of mine is wearing a black suit with red threads on the shoulder line and along the cuffs. I think this looks like the jacket is unfinished and/or those threads need to be cut. He says it's intentional and part of the jacket.

    Who's right? Is this egregiously foolish?

    Thanks


    That's called basting and is meant to signify that the suit is brand new and unaltered. Tell him to pull it out.
     


  7. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Yeah, after looking at it for a bit it was clear that I shouldn't be wearing them together. So much so that I'm not sure why I posted it in the first place. Thanks.

    We'll see how it goes with gray, but maybe you're right that it's too busy.


    In general a dark shirt will not work with a suit. If you do it, then do it without a tie, since the tie should preferably be even darker than the shirt. However, to be on the safe side, stick to light shirts with suits. It usually looks better, so you aren't really losing anything.
     


  8. JamesX

    JamesX Senior member

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    So I just received a pair of shoes in the mail and I am having a hard time telling if they are to big or not? If I tie them tight they seem fine. I can't really walk in them because then I can't return them. Any ideas on how to tell? My other dress shoes are 8.5 and these ones supposedly fit true to size. There is a fair amount in the toe box because they are long and come to a point. Something about them doesn't feel right. It might be because I don't own too many dress shoes and I am comparing them to the fit of other non dress shoes I have.

    Walking on Carpet light steps would be fine. Carpet will not scratch the sole. Just don't bend the toe box too much, and it won't crease.

    As other have said

    The Heel should not slip

    The widest part of your feet should match around the widest part of the shoe.

    There shouldn't be a lot of pressure on the top of your feet (a lot of the more tapered shoes have this issue)

    And where the shoe bend should not be on top of your little toe. It will get painful very fast.

    The space in the toe box is not important, as long as your heel does not slip. The sharper/longer the chisel the more space you will have. That is normal.
     


  9. Jr Mouse

    Jr Mouse Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When getting pants hemmed how much excess fabric does the tailor need beyond the length you are getting it hemmed to?
     


  10. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    When getting pants hemmed how much excess fabric does the tailor need beyond the length you are getting it hemmed to?
    Not sure how to answer your question, but if it helps, here's what happened to one of my pants. They shrunk in the washer and I took them to my tailor to let them out a bit. They had just enough material for him to make them the length I wanted and, naturally, there was none left for the inside roll/cuff. However, he just used a similar fabric on the inside of the leg at the bottom to make it OK. So, the moral of the story is that a creative tailor needs very little extra material, since he can always use a similar piece of fabric inside.
     


  11. Jr Mouse

    Jr Mouse Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sure how to answer your question, but if it helps, here's what happened to one of my pants. They shrunk in the washer and I took them to my tailor to let them out a bit. They had just enough material for him to make them the length I wanted and, naturally, there was none left for the inside roll/cuff. However, he just used a similar fabric on the inside of the leg at the bottom to make it OK. So, the moral of the story is that a creative tailor needs very little extra material, since he can always use a similar piece of fabric inside.
    There would be .4 inch of fabric left to have the pants hemmed at the length I want. I had no idea a tailor could add a different fabric, but that seems like it could be a good idea.
     


  12. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    There would be .4 inch of fabric left to have the pants hemmed at the length I want. I had no idea a tailor could add a different fabric, but that seems like it could be a good idea.

    I'd guess that .4" should be enough.
     


  13. Newstyle

    Newstyle Senior member

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    Walking on Carpet light steps would be fine. Carpet will not scratch the sole. Just don't bend the toe box too much, and it won't crease.

    As other have said

    The Heel should not slip

    The widest part of your feet should match around the widest part of the shoe.

    There shouldn't be a lot of pressure on the top of your feet (a lot of the more tapered shoes have this issue)

    And where the shoe bend should not be on top of your little toe. It will get painful very fast.

    The space in the toe box is not important, as long as your heel does not slip. The sharper/longer the chisel the more space you will have. That is normal.

    Ok cool should my laces be pulled really tight? If I tie them tight it seems to be fine.
     


  14. EZETHATSME

    EZETHATSME Senior member

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    ^ Snug but they shouldn't have to be pulled super tight.

    EZ
     


  15. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    If the shoe sides don't overlap from pulling the laces too tight you are fine. However, do keep in mind that with time new shoes will probably stretch a little.
     


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