Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. okazaki

    okazaki Member

    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2010
    I'm ~6'1"-6'2" tall, and wear a 44 jacket. What tie width should I be shooting for, and what is the narrowest I should go? (Sorry, don't know lapel width off top of my head, but they're fairly narrow).
     


  2. dwightlathan77

    dwightlathan77 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2010
    I'm not a bodybuilder, but have always had a hard time getting into suit jackets without divots and puckering. I've been told its because the deltoids, lats stretching the armholes. In my experience it's compounded because I push my arms into my side when I stand and it flattens my biceps. I've recently purchased a M2M suit to get past it, but its still going on in a big way!

    This is the first attempt without alterations, so am not worried about the lack of waist suppression or the tight pants since thats an easy fix, but..

    How do you order a suit to eliminate the upper arm divots? Even the businesses specializing in men's suites and alterations in my area can't help me!

    [​IMG]

    This is a first ordering of an Indochino suit, so you can also use it to help determine their expected fit on the first try.

    Measurements:
    Height: 6'-2"
    Weight: 206 lbs

    Jacket
    Length: 33
    Chest: 43.5
    Stomach: 37 (ordered 40)
    Hips: 42
    Shoulder: 21
    Sleeve: 27
    Bicep: 15.25

    Pants
    Length: 42.5 (From waist)
    Waist: 37 (Natural)
    Crotch: 29
    Hips: 43
    Thigh: 26
    Knee: 18
     


  3. spencers

    spencers Senior member

    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2008
    Found this on Tumblr a week or so ago. If I may, I'd like to request deets on the jacket, as I'd love to pick one up for myself. Perhaps the person is on the forums? I envy the Filson 257, as well. Thanks! [​IMG]
     


  4. Smudge

    Smudge Senior member

    Messages:
    205
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2009
    ^^ My impression is that altering the sleeve pitch will cure the ripples that seem to exist behind your arms (@ triceps). Not sure about how to cure the divots themselves but I'm sure someone far more knowledgeable than me will comment soon.
     


  5. Newstyle

    Newstyle Senior member

    Messages:
    268
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2010
    Elbow patches on a sweater, too old man or stylish for a young guy?
     


  6. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Likes Received:
    310
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    Elbow patches on a sweater, too old man or stylish for a young guy?
    It's a classic, practical detail. That said, it does have an old man association, so you have to tread carefully. If it fits well and you carry it off, you should be fine. If it's schlumpy and you're not confident in it, you'll come across as such and people will pull out the negative associations rather than registering "hey, he looks good!". It's the same thing with tweed and cardigans. Do it right, it's style. Do it wrong, and people pull out the grandpa lines. The overriding issue is that almost any form of classic menswear apart from a standard dark business suit will remind a large number of young people of their grandfathers, since that's the last generation that wore classic menswear as regular dress rather than dress up. So all those classic options will be viewed as old people clothes when they never had that connotation before. As usual, the Boomers fucked things up.
     


  7. IronRock

    IronRock Senior member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Location:
    over there
    ^ That is exactly what I'm looking for, but that has elbow patches [​IMG] (I think my girlfriend would kill me if I bought that).

    Buy it, take it to an alterations tailor and get them unstiched. Or leave them on - I think they look ok.

    I'm not a bodybuilder, but have always had a hard time getting into suit jackets without divots and puckering. I've been told its because the deltoids, lats stretching the armholes. In my experience it's compounded because I push my arms into my side when I stand and it flattens my biceps. I've recently purchased a M2M suit to get past it, but its still going on in a big way!

    This is the first attempt without alterations, so am not worried about the lack of waist suppression or the tight pants since thats an easy fix, but..

    How do you order a suit to eliminate the upper arm divots? Even the businesses specializing in men's suites and alterations in my area can't help me!


    Ok - if that is a MTM then in my opinion it is badly measured. I think they need to make the width of the sleeve bigger and the shoulder width slightly wider. I am sure someone else will give you a better answer but from where I'm sitting it seems that if they measured you properly you would not have these problems.
     


  8. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,672
    Likes Received:
    6,127
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    Found this on Tumblr a week or so ago. If I may, I'd like to request deets on the jacket, as I'd love to pick one up for myself. Perhaps the person is on the forums?

    IST66.
     


  9. spencers

    spencers Senior member

    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2008
    IST66.

    You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
    The tumblr I found it on is in his sig. Thanks!
     


  10. RangerP

    RangerP Senior member

    Messages:
    305
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2010
    Location:
    Canada
    I have recently started wearing better shoes and I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't bought any shoe care products yet. I've only worn each pair twice just in case the leather is dry and might crack.

    I own 4 pairs, all Allen Edmonds. 2 black, 2 Walnut in color. Would this be a good start for shoe care:

    2 x Horsehair Dauber
    1 x Premium Shoe Polish in BLACK
    1 x Premium Shoe Polish in Walnut
    2 x Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth
    1 x Horsehair Shine Brush
    1 x Conditioner/Cleaner

    All these are in my cart on the AE website and I'm just waiting for a confirmation to pull the trigger.

    Is there a better or cheaper brand that I should go with? a product I'm missing?

    Also, what's the use of Shoe Cream as opposed to conditioner/cleaner and shoe polish. do I need the Shoe Cream?
     


  11. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,672
    Likes Received:
    6,127
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    You're welcome, spencers.
     


  12. wetnose

    wetnose Senior member

    Messages:
    1,013
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2009

    2 x Horsehair Dauber
    1 x Premium Shoe Polish in BLACK
    1 x Premium Shoe Polish in Walnut
    2 x Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth
    1 x Horsehair Shine Brush
    1 x Conditioner/Cleaner

    Is there a better or cheaper brand that I should go with? a product I'm missing?

    Also, what's the use of Shoe Cream as opposed to conditioner/cleaner and shoe polish. do I need the Shoe Cream?


    You do need another shine brush - since you don't want to apply black polish to your walnut shoes.

    I suggest another shoe polish in oxblood - apply occasionally to the walnut shoes so it'd give a bit of depth to the color. Won't change the base color.

    IMO, you don't need the horsehair dauber - just an old terry cloth for application is fine.

    Shoe cream is basically the same as conditioner - but I could be wrong.
     


  13. acecow

    acecow Senior member

    Messages:
    4,135
    Likes Received:
    680
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2009
    Location:
    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
    I have recently started wearing better shoes and I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't bought any shoe care products yet. I've only worn each pair twice just in case the leather is dry and might crack.

    I own 4 pairs, all Allen Edmonds. 2 black, 2 Walnut in color. Would this be a good start for shoe care:

    2 x Horsehair Dauber
    1 x Premium Shoe Polish in BLACK
    1 x Premium Shoe Polish in Walnut
    2 x Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth
    1 x Horsehair Shine Brush
    1 x Conditioner/Cleaner

    All these are in my cart on the AE website and I'm just waiting for a confirmation to pull the trigger.

    Is there a better or cheaper brand that I should go with? a product I'm missing?

    Also, what's the use of Shoe Cream as opposed to conditioner/cleaner and shoe polish. do I need the Shoe Cream?


    I'd suggest getting some neutral wax with or instead of the shoe polish cream. I'm not an authority on shoe care, but I follow the shoe polishing guide that Saint Crispin's have on their website and it worked well for me.
     


  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I have recently started wearing better shoes and I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't bought any shoe care products yet. I've only worn each pair twice just in case the leather is dry and might crack.

    I own 4 pairs, all Allen Edmonds. 2 black, 2 Walnut in color. Would this be a good start for shoe care:

    2 x Horsehair Dauber
    1 x Premium Shoe Polish in BLACK
    1 x Premium Shoe Polish in Walnut
    2 x Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth
    1 x Horsehair Shine Brush
    1 x Conditioner/Cleaner

    All these are in my cart on the AE website and I'm just waiting for a confirmation to pull the trigger.

    Is there a better or cheaper brand that I should go with? a product I'm missing?

    Also, what's the use of Shoe Cream as opposed to conditioner/cleaner and shoe polish. do I need the Shoe Cream?


    You need an old tee shirt, saphir renovateur for conditioning, a black tin of saphir wax and a medium brown tin of saphir wax, and a horsehair brush.
     


  15. JamesX

    JamesX Senior member

    Messages:
    1,031
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2010
    Location:
    Irvine, CA
    You need an old tee shirt, saphir renovateur for conditioning, a black tin of saphir wax and a medium brown tin of saphir wax, and a horsehair brush.

    To add to the above

    I tend to avoid Wax because I am too lazy to strip them every few months. Cream works fine for me.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by