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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. DVS75

    DVS75 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2010
    The chest measures at 43.7 inches (111 centimeters) with both a shirt and undershirt put on.
    Please tell me which suit size of the jacket (suit) I should choose then: 44 or 46?

    Thank you very much.
     
  2. Ivystyle

    Ivystyle Senior member

    Messages:
    161
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2010
  3. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

    Messages:
    27,420
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2009
    Location:
    NE PA
    The chest measures at 43.7 inches (111 centimeters) with both a shirt and undershirt put on.
    Please tell me which suit size of the jacket (suit) I should choose then: 44 or 46?

    Thank you very much.


    You should really try the suit on in person, especially if it's from a line you've never worn before. A 44 from Brooks is not necessarily the same fit as a 44 from an Italian or English line.
     
  4. noob in 89

    noob in 89 Senior member

    Messages:
    7,659
    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2010
    Are old Florsheim oxford-ish type shoes always going to be pretty nice? Or has their quality varied over the years? It's just that I see them every single time I hit a thrift store, but never in my size. Wondering if maybe I should start snapping them up to use in the trading thread. Same goes for AE Park Avenues with creases up top and pretty worn-looking soles, I guess.
     
  5. Surreal

    Surreal Senior member

    Messages:
    138
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Soviet Region
    I tried on this black slim fit jacket and it seems to fit really well, which is a huge rarity for my body proportions (very wide shoulders, slim waist).

    The hand length is good (at last) and the waist is narrow. The shoulders are broader than on most jackets so they fit my build although you can see a bit of shoulder muscle protruding at the side. I tried jackets with smaller shoulders and they are very uncomfortable when I want to move my arms and looks like they are too small on me. Besides, I might gain some muscle soon, so I think even this is on the boarder.

    It's about 180 bucks for the jacket and so far I haven't found anything better and I have been to A LOT of shops. I'm not sure if this jacket goes with pants (suit), but I would buy the set if it does and if the pants are good.

    It's cotton.

    What do you think? Could I wear this with jeans and in casual settings as well as a suit?

    PS: Sorry for the low quality pictures, I couldn't get anything better at the shop. My phone camera is not very good.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. wetnose

    wetnose Senior member

    Messages:
    1,013
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2009
    I tried on this black slim fit jacket and it seems to fit really well, which is a huge rarity for my body proportions (very wide shoulders, slim waist).

    The hand length is good (at last) and the waist is narrow. The shoulders are broader than on most jackets so they fit my build although you can see a bit of shoulder muscle protruding at the side. I tried jackets with smaller shoulders and they are very uncomfortable when I want to move my arms and looks like they are too small on me. Besides, I might gain some muscle soon, so I think even this is on the boarder.

    It's about 180 bucks for the jacket and so far I haven't found anything better and I have been to A LOT of shops. I'm not sure if this jacket goes with pants (suit), but I would buy the set if it does and if the pants are good.

    It's cotton.

    What do you think? Could I wear this with jeans and in casual settings as well as a suit?


    If you like to be up-to-date, then the jacket is OK. It's too short otherwise...meaning no one would wear it in 5 years. A classic fit would go to slightly above 1-2" above the tip of your thumb.

    I suggest looking for jackets in your shoulder size then getting the waist taken in. Wool is also much better as a suit jacket material - doesn't show creases as much.
     
  7. Surreal

    Surreal Senior member

    Messages:
    138
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Soviet Region
    Ok I took your advice.

    Was trying on some better suits today and here are the pics with tops.

    The hands are too short, but they say they can add a couple of cm's. They have a ready tailor.

    Otherwise I could only try the blue and gray (last pic).

    They will have a dark navy blue model next week and I will try that as well. How is the fit otherwise? Apart form hands of course.

    It's wool btw.

    Again, sorry for bad pics, couldn't get better quality ones.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    The hands are too short, but they say they can add a couple of cm's. They have a ready tailor.

    The sleeves on the striped one are definitely too short, but on all the others they look about right...
     
  9. zerostyle

    zerostyle Senior member

    Messages:
    580
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2010
    Is anyone familiar with suit brands that run narrow in the shoulders?

    I need the chest size of a 38, but these shoulders usually run 17.5-18.5". I need something more like along the lines of 17" shoulders.

    The only brand I'm aware of is Isaia, but they are a little more expensive than I want to pay for.

    (I'm hoping I can keep this < $700 or so).
     
  10. PipersSon

    PipersSon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,543
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2011
    Sweater question: I'm 45.5 inches in the chest, 19 inches arm length. What are the ideal sweater measurements for me? I read somewhere that a good fit would be by adding 4 inches to chest size. Shoe question: Should your feet measurements be as close to the insole length and width of the shoes? Example: My feet - 10 inches in length and 4 3/16 inches in width (8EE US). So the ideal shoe for me would be around 10 inches insole and 4 3/16 inches width? Thanks for your help! Edit: I did try looking for answers here/ on google first.
     
  11. Blamm

    Blamm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    62
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    Location:
    Virginia
    Question - is this sacrilege, stupid, or sound -

    - I want to add elbow patches to an older sweater of mine with worn elbows
    - I thought about leather or corduroy, but think a color compatible tweed could be fantastic
    - saw a perfect Harris Tweed sportcoat at the local thrift shop for $10 - doesn't fit, but....

    - can I cut patches from the coat for my sweater project?
    - and what if anything else can I turn out with the fabric from the coat once I butcher it for the elbow patches? Tie, bow tie, pocket square, couch pillow...???
     
  12. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    Should your feet measurements be as close to the insole length and width of the shoes? Example: My feet - 10 inches in length and 4 3/16 inches in width (8EE US). So the ideal shoe for me would be around 10 inches insole and 4 3/16 inches width?
    No. You would probably want the width to be close, though I'm not sure how close, but the total length is completely irrelevant; depending on the shape of the last there can be a considerable amount of space in-front of your toes. The only length measurement that might be relevant would be the distance between the heel and the widest part of the shoe, but again I can't say how close you would want this to be to the same measurement on your foot.
     
  13. PipersSon

    PipersSon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,543
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2011
    No. You would probably want the width to be close, though I'm not sure how close, but the total length is completely irrelevant; depending on the shape of the last there can be a considerable amount of space in-front of your toes. The only length measurement that might be relevant would be the distance between the heel and the widest part of the shoe, but again I can't say how close you would want this to be to the same measurement on your foot.
    First of all, thank you for your reply. I continue to learn new things here every day. But I confess to being confused. If total length is irrelevant then why do most sellers here provide the data? Thus for shoes sales threads one has (for example) Insole length = 11 inches, outer length = 13 inches, width = 3.5 inches etc. Obviously best would be to go buy in the 'real' world. But how would I then buy shoes online in a somewhat reliable manner? I mean I know (or think I know) I am an 8EE - so is that all the info I need or will get?
     
  14. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

    Messages:
    6,964
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    from this pic, do the dots on this tie look to be printed or woven ? [​IMG]
     
  15. BlueHorseShoe

    BlueHorseShoe Senior member

    Messages:
    523
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2008
    First of all, thank you for your reply. I continue to learn new things here every day.

    But I confess to being confused. If total length is irrelevant then why do most sellers here provide the data? Thus for shoes sales threads one has (for example) Insole length = 11 inches, outer length = 13 inches, width = 3.5 inches etc.

    Obviously best would be to go buy in the 'real' world. But how would I then buy shoes online in a somewhat reliable manner? I mean I know (or think I know) I am an 8EE - so is that all the info I need or will get?


    This is the paradox. Welcome to the matrix.

    You need to be familiar with the various manufacturer's lasts and how you fit in them. For instance, I wear a 10.5D on Alden's Barrie last, a 11D in most of the Allen Edmonds lasts, and a 11.5 in most of the Ferragamo lasts. If you don't try them on, you'll be buying blind. The brannock device can only go so far.
     
  16. PipersSon

    PipersSon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,543
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2011
    This is the paradox. Welcome to the matrix.

    You need to be familiar with the various manufacturer's lasts and how you fit in them. For instance, I wear a 10.5D on Alden's Barrie last, a 11D in most of the Allen Edmonds lasts, and a 11.5 in most of the Ferragamo lasts. If you don't try them on, you'll be buying blind. The brannock device can only go so far.


    It seems to me then that I need to try shoes in the real world before trying to buy them online. Figure out what lasts work for me; these lasts could vary across bands by the same manufacturer. Damn!

    Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.
     
  17. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    Question - is this sacrilege, stupid, or sound -

    - I want to add elbow patches to an older sweater of mine with worn elbows
    - I thought about leather or corduroy, but think a color compatible tweed could be fantastic
    - saw a perfect Harris Tweed sportcoat at the local thrift shop for $10 - doesn't fit, but....

    - can I cut patches from the coat for my sweater project?
    - and what if anything else can I turn out with the fabric from the coat once I butcher it for the elbow patches? Tie, bow tie, pocket square, couch pillow...???


    If the coat is in good condition and wearable, leave it for somebody who'll appreciate it as a coat. Please.

    First of all, thank you for your reply. I continue to learn new things here every day.

    But I confess to being confused. If total length is irrelevant then why do most sellers here provide the data? Thus for shoes sales threads one has (for example) Insole length = 11 inches, outer length = 13 inches, width = 3.5 inches etc.

    Obviously best would be to go buy in the 'real' world. But how would I then buy shoes online in a somewhat reliable manner? I mean I know (or think I know) I am an 8EE - so is that all the info I need or will get?


    Sellers provide total length so you can compare to shoes you already have- for example, if I was looking at a longwing on B&S, and it had the same overall length as a penny loafer that fits me, I would know that it was too small, even if it was the right marked size. But if the length was a little bit longer than say, a captoe that fit pretty well, it would be a good bet.

    It's not something you would want to use in comparison to your foot. You use it to compare to known shoes.
     
  18. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,666
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    Question - is this sacrilege, stupid, or sound -

    - I want to add elbow patches to an older sweater of mine with worn elbows
    - I thought about leather or corduroy, but think a color compatible tweed could be fantastic
    - saw a perfect Harris Tweed sportcoat at the local thrift shop for $10 - doesn't fit, but....

    - can I cut patches from the coat for my sweater project?


    cptjeff has a point, but I like the idea. Do it and take pictures of the process.
     
  19. kashmir

    kashmir Senior member

    Messages:
    711
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2010
    hey guys,

    tried an OTR suit jacket today and had a dillema:

    1. size L: perfect jacket length, waist, arm length, shoulder seams at the correct places, but too tight around the shoulder/ upper chest area (I'm thick at chest area but small shoulders)

    2. size XL: of course, longer and more roomy than L, but upper chest/ shoulder definitely fits.

    will getting XL and altering the suit length (!) and width be feasible? or is it too reckless? basically, the L suit jacket with a tad bigger upper torso will be perfect- is there some way that the L jacket can be enlarged through tailoring?

    thanks!
     
  20. rfranca

    rfranca Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2010
    Shoe question:
    When you polish your shoes, should you have a different brush for your brown and for your black shoes?

    - I imagine some of the black shoe polish might be retained by the brush and could stain your brown shoes.
    does that make sense or would it be OK to use the same brush?
    I only have one brush so far (used only on the black shoes), but would only buy a second if it was absolutely necessary.
    thanks
     

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