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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    It can be done, and I don't think it's too difficult. I would go for it, personally. Have them taken down to a nice classic size that will look good regardless of trend. 70's stuff may be coming back in, but I still think lapels that make you look like you should be calling air traffic control are rather ugly.

    And it shouldn't require any other alterations to the jacket.

    It's a substantial alteration.
     
  2. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Can anyone recommend and Upper East Side NYC tailor? Need to have a pair of suit pants taken in and potentially slimmed down? Don't want to brake the bank either... Thanks in advance!
    Do a search for the "Hopefully definitive thread on NYC tailors". It has tons of info on NYC alterations tailors.
     
  3. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    BTW I did do a forum search on this and only got threads from Streetware and Denim. (They're not as nice over there.....)[​IMG]
    Unfortunately, they're the ones with denim expertise.
     
  4. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    So I mostly hear about british shoemakers, Edward Green, John Lobb, Crockett and Jones, Cleverley, and I also hear about american shoemakers, Allen Edmonds and Alden. I will rarely hear about france's Corthay but not really any other "foreign" shoe makers. The comprehensive list is a bit *too* comprehensive. My question is, what are the best shoemakers outside of the US and the UK?
    Vass gets lots of attention as do a variety of Italian makers such as Ferragamo Tramezza and Santoni. There are several "shoe hierarchy" threads in the MC forum. Do a search for them if you want more details.
     
  5. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    So I mostly hear about british shoemakers, Edward Green, John Lobb, Crockett and Jones, Cleverley, and I also hear about american shoemakers, Allen Edmonds and Alden. I will rarely hear about france's Corthay but not really any other "foreign" shoe makers. The comprehensive list is a bit *too* comprehensive. My question is, what are the best shoemakers outside of the US and the UK?


    i have a pair of zegna couture loafers they are excellent i have heard they are made by ferragamo but they are far better than any ferragamos ive ever had
     
  6. phila_suit

    phila_suit New Member

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    Dec 20, 2010
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    Philadelphia
    I just got measure for my first custom suit over the weekend. Getting it for my wedding next year. My question is if anyone knows where I can find interesting Bemberg lining for the suit coat and vest back. I live in the Philly area, so someone around here would be great, but willing to look in NJ/NY
     
  7. Zach

    Zach Well-Known Member

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    Aug 23, 2010
    Does anyone have any experience with Allen Edmonds shoes in the "Brown Burnished Calf" Color? I picked up a pair of Fifth Avenues in that color last week and I'm not sure what color polish to buy. I contacted AE and they suggested their Dark Brown Polish, but I am a bit worried it may take the shoes to a bit darker tone than I want to see them at.

    I don't mind using a polish that may add a bit of burgundy tint, or picking up a bottle of Saphir cream polish - but again, not sure what colors may work.
     
  8. chasingred

    chasingred Senior member

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    Someone once posted a link here to an article written sometime in the 50s or 60s about Beau Brummel. It was a fantastic read, but I can't seem to find it. I believe it's a fairly classic article. Does anyone by chance know the title, publication, or link?
     
  9. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    It's a substantial alteration.
    Not that substantial. You're only talking about cutting open the lapel, cutting it down, and resewing it. Possibly redoing some padstitching. Back in the 60's, it was advertised at many dry cleaners, along with tie narrowing (BTW- 40's bold look suits look really, really bad with narrow lapels). I wouldn't try that at a dry cleaner today, but a competent tailor shouldn't have an issue with it. Substantial alterations involve stuff like changing sleeve angles, changing the shoulders in about any way, stuff that involves messing with major structural elements. It's more substantial than hemming pants or taking up a sleeve, yes, but I would not put it anywhere close to the plane of messing with major structural elements.
     
  10. RyanAnderson

    RyanAnderson Senior member

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    Mar 31, 2009
    Was just at Macy's and saw a gray Lauren by Ralph Lauren silver label sport coat. I don't have one in gray and was thinking it could work to fill out my wardrobe at a good price (with multiple discounts, it'll be around $175).

    I've seen minimal references to the brand on the site, but apparently it's not owned by RL anymore and people think the clothes are crap.

    can someone give me a reason why the clothes are crap quality and explain why I shouldn't go for it at such a low price?
     
  11. Thomas

    Thomas Senior member

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    Someone once posted a link here to an article written sometime in the 50s or 60s about Beau Brummel. It was a fantastic read, but I can't seem to find it. I believe it's a fairly classic article. Does anyone by chance know the title, publication, or link?
    Hmmm, is that the essay on the art of wearing clothes, which also included comments on A.J Drexel Biddle, among others? try this: http://www.thematerialist.net/artofwearingclothes.html
     
  12. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Not that substantial. You're only talking about cutting open the lapel, cutting it down, and resewing it. Possibly redoing some padstitching. Back in the 60's, it was advertised at many dry cleaners, along with tie narrowing (BTW- 40's bold look suits look really, really bad with narrow lapels). I wouldn't try that at a dry cleaner today, but a competent tailor shouldn't have an issue with it.

    Substantial alterations involve stuff like changing sleeve angles, changing the shoulders in about any way, stuff that involves messing with major structural elements. It's more substantial than hemming pants or taking up a sleeve, yes, but I would not put it anywhere close to the plane of messing with major structural elements.

    Substantial in that it is labor-intensive and therefore expensive. Also, if there is an open button hole on the left lapel, you cannot narrow the lapels without throwing off the placement of the button hole.
     
  13. kumizi

    kumizi Senior member

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    I have a question about buying a Belstaff leather jacket. I want the Gangster in antique black and the only place I can find it is through a British retailer. http://www.lineafashion.com/store/pr...ducts_id=11020 Anyone ordered from there before? I've never ordered from an international source and wanted to make sure the product wouldn't get held up in customs, etc.
     
  14. michaelscheiderfield

    michaelscheiderfield New Member

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    Do we need to make our upper outfit same color with the lower?
     
  15. chasingred

    chasingred Senior member

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    Hmmm, is that the essay on the art of wearing clothes, which also included comments on A.J Drexel Biddle, among others?

    try this:

    http://www.thematerialist.net/artofwearingclothes.html


    That's exactly it. SF never ceases to surprise me with the amount of collective knowledge on here. I ask a vague question about some random article I read a long time ago, and someone knows exactly what I read.

    Thanks for the link.
     
  16. Rankiz

    Rankiz Senior member

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    Nov 26, 2010
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    Norway
    Do you think this fit nice togheter?
    Ralph Lauren academy coat, in navy tho.
    [​IMG]
    Knomo bungo
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Rugger

    Rugger Senior member

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    How far below waist should a suit jacket hang? Or what is the definitive measurement to determine proper BOC length?
     
  18. binge

    binge Senior member

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    San Francisco
    What do you guys think of the Saks Fifth Avenue house brand. I saw a Saks topcoat (in black) that had an MSRP of 1000, but was on sale for 200. It seemed like a solid topcoat but I was curious what you fellows thought of the brand. I don't plan on spending more than 350 for a top coat, so it seemed like a pretty good deal.

    Do you like the coat? Does it fit your budget? Does it fit well?

    If yes, yes, and yes; then yes.

    How far below waist should a suit jacket hang? Or what is the definitive measurement to determine proper BOC length?

    There is no definitive measurement. Covering your butt is a pretty good rule. Some prefer jackets longer or shorter than others. Like hemlines, the fashionable length changes over time.
     
  19. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Senior member

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    Los Angeles
  20. deadly7

    deadly7 Senior member

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    http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop...1_10050_101627

    $9 for solid color silk pocket square
    how are these ps's at jos a banks?
    i am thinking about getting some basic color pocket squares to start my collection
    yay or nay?


    Unless you have a big hang up about the silk used for your PS', $9 is a good deal.
     

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