• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Philip_85

Active Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2020
Messages
27
Reaction score
4
Will shell cordovan shoes stretch at all or not?
say I buy a pair of penny loafers and it's tight around the mid foot. Heal and toe box feel comfortable but they feel moderately tight with respect to the width across the penny-retaining strap.
Some salespeople say that shell is like iron and will never stretch. Others say if you're patient they will break-in to feel like a pair of slippers.
 

Churchill W

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2013
Messages
3,665
Reaction score
1,635
Will shell cordovan shoes stretch at all or not?
say I buy a pair of penny loafers and it's tight around the mid foot. Heal and toe box feel comfortable but they feel moderately tight with respect to the width across the penny-retaining strap.
Some salespeople say that shell is like iron and will never stretch. Others say if you're patient they will break-in to feel like a pair of slippers.
In my experience they will stretch a little, but not as much as other leathers.
 

nzahir

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
104
Reaction score
15
Anyone own any BB Button Down Collar Shirts?

Just got one today in a Regent fit and the collar is very odd, not sure how to describe it, but the collar doesn't go out as much as I thought, it seems to end up more in the center of my body than the sides

Not sure if I did a good job of explaining or I need to post a photo later
 

BPL Esq

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Messages
287
Reaction score
339
Anyone own any BB Button Down Collar Shirts?

Just got one today in a Regent fit and the collar is very odd, not sure how to describe it, but the collar doesn't go out as much as I thought, it seems to end up more in the center of my body than the sides

Not sure if I did a good job of explaining or I need to post a photo later

I have a bunch of them in that same fit but am not sure what you mean. Do you mean the collar doesn't flare out away from your neck much as you'd like? With a button down collar, I think the idea is to get a nice roll in the collar but not for the collar to flare substantially away from your neck.
 

Encathol Epistemia

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2019
Messages
260
Reaction score
464
I recently watched Casque D'or, which is a French film that was made in 1952 and is set in La Belle Époque, thus some time between 1880 and 1914. In it, several of the men wear some kind of wide cloth waist covering. Does anybody know what it is and if it had a particular function?

Below are a few pictures of Serge Reggiani as Georges Manda, the film's protagonist, that show the waist covering that intrigued me:

Casque D;or Waist Covering A.jpg


(The waist covering obscures this, but I found it striking just how high the waist on his trousers was, as suggested by the visibility of the loops on the suspenders in this image)

Casque D;or Waist Covering B.png


(This is the closest, clearest image showing the waist covering that I could find readily. Unrelated: It stands out to me that the man on the right has buttoned on the third button of his three-button jacket)

Casque D;or Waist Covering C.png


(I might only have included this picture because I love the hat that the man on the left is wearing, not that there's anything wrong with the bowler that the man on the right is wearing. It also illustrates that four-button jackets are quite common among the male cast in the film.)

The analogue that came to my mind was, unimaginatively, a cummerbund, but all of the characters who wear it are working class and in informal settings. (There are a few scenes of men in black tie, replete with silk plush top hats, but I didn't notice what they wore around their waists) I don't know how accurate the clothes in this film were; I would like to assume that they portrayed the era correctly, especially given some of distinctive details, but I am ignorant of the sartorial history of the milieu.
 

LookOutSpices

Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2020
Messages
21
Reaction score
4
Dark brown suede oxfords: okay to wear with a navy suit? I'm an attorney, for oxfords I also have burgundy and black calf, would use with a navy suit potentially (for court, client meetings, depos, etc.), along with dress trousers and sport coats for more regular work wear once we return to the office.

Thinking of this Carmina model:

 

BPL Esq

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Messages
287
Reaction score
339
Dark brown suede oxfords: okay to wear with a navy suit? I'm an attorney, for oxfords I also have burgundy and black calf, would use with a navy suit potentially (for court, client meetings, depos, etc.), along with dress trousers and sport coats for more regular work wear once we return to the office.

Thinking of this Carmina model:

Fellow attorney here. I think of suede as inherently much more casual than calf. Although probably OK for client meetings and most depositions (which tend to be relatively more laid-back in my experience), I would hesitate to ever wear suede in court for the same reason I wouldn't wear tweed or a knit tie.
 

dirtbag-delux

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2021
Messages
21
Reaction score
30
I have a cheep dark blue ebay jacket. An old wool Stafford. Three buttons, no vents: as Italian as you can get at JC Penny's. I like it -- it fits great. Probably a suit orphan. I bought some light horn buttons to replace the existing blue/black ones and I will wear it as a sport coat.

I have changed buttons before by sewing through the sleeve lining.... Any advice on how to do it right?
 

BPL Esq

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Messages
287
Reaction score
339
I have a cheep dark blue ebay jacket. An old wool Stafford. Three buttons, no vents: as Italian as you can get at JC Penny's. I like it -- it fits great. Probably a suit orphan. I bought some light horn buttons to replace the existing blue/black ones and I will wear it as a sport coat.

I have changed buttons before by sewing through the sleeve lining.... Any advice on how to do it right?
Unfortunately, I don't have advice on this, but I have a related question for the group.

I just picked up a medium blue sportcoat on ebay. It's a subtle plaid with flap pockets. I got a good deal on it, despite it being nearly new, because a couple of the dark MOP buttons are broken and must be replaced. I think this calls for simply replacing all the buttons, but correct me if you think that's misguided. Any recommendations as far as color, material, and where to get them would be much appreciated. Happy to provide a picture of the jacket if that will help.

Edit: adding picture to make it easier.
Screenshot_20210426-192922_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited:

BespokeBrooklyn

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Messages
638
Reaction score
236
You can waterproof suede with inexpensive sprays that work very well against “plain” water. But slushy melted snow, or any water that has oil, ice melter, or some other type of chemical in it will badly ruin suede.

Oh, here's another:

I saw a Seinfeld the other day where Jerry's new suede jacket was destroyed by snow. I've never owned suede anything before, but was hoping to get some suede shoes - is it true that even a modest amount of moisture will make them spotty? If not, where does the idea come from that it will?
 

BespokeBrooklyn

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Messages
638
Reaction score
236
I am an attorney and often wear my dark brown suede oxfords with navy suits. I find that they also look good with tan suits in the summertime.
Dark brown suede oxfords: okay to wear with a navy suit? I'm an attorney, for oxfords I also have burgundy and black calf, would use with a navy suit potentially (for court, client meetings, depos, etc.), along with dress trousers and sport coats for more regular work wear once we return to the office.

Thinking of this Carmina model:

 
Last edited:

breakaway01

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
2,398
Reaction score
1,385
Unfortunately, I don't have advice on this, but I have a related question for the group.

I just picked up a medium blue sportcoat on ebay. It's a subtle plaid with flap pockets. I got a good deal on it, despite it being nearly new, because a couple of the dark MOP buttons are broken and must be replaced. I think this calls for simply replacing all the buttons, but correct me if you think that's misguided. Any recommendations as far as color, material, and where to get them would be much appreciated. Happy to provide a picture of the jacket if that will help.

Edit: adding picture to make it easier.
I have purchased smoked MOP buttons from YW Button https://www.ywbutton.com/
They are legit and prices are fair.

For that jacket I would go with smoked MOP if you want to stay with the original look or else brown horn.

Thin MOP buttons are easily cracked by the heavy steam presses at dry cleaners. Talk to them about pressing by hand (if they know how to do this).
 

BPL Esq

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Messages
287
Reaction score
339
I have purchased smoked MOP buttons from YW Button https://www.ywbutton.com/
They are legit and prices are fair.

For that jacket I would go with smoked MOP if you want to stay with the original look or else brown horn.

Thin MOP buttons are easily cracked by the heavy steam presses at dry cleaners. Talk to them about pressing by hand (if they know how to do this).
Thanks very much, and will do. That makes sense. I was curious what the hell someone did to break several of the buttons so quickly.

YW has the following that look interesting:

Brown horn
Screenshot_20210427-064455_Chrome.jpg

Smoked MOP
Screenshot_20210427-064549_Chrome.jpg

Royal blue pearl (seems closest to originals)
Screenshot_20210427-064947_Chrome.jpg

Medium blue pearl
Screenshot_20210427-065025_Chrome.jpg


I'll give it some thought when I have the jacket in hand, but opinions are welcome on these.
 
Last edited:

BespokeBrooklyn

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Messages
638
Reaction score
236
For years, I’ve had a Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece blazer that I loved and used to wear year-round. It had a 3/2 roll and flap pockets. This past winter, I bought an unlined/padded, patch pocketed navy jacket in a wool-cotton blend, so that I had something lighter weight to wear in the summer, and also to have something less “nice” that I could wear while traveling; since traveling seems to take a higher toll on my clothing than anything else. Shortly thereafter, moths damaged my Brooks Brothers jacket — there is a hole on the right quarter, just above the hem, and a smaller, barely noticeable hole on the left sleeve, on the opposite side from the buttons.

Even if my good jacket is salvageable, I probably can’t think of it as my “good” blazer anymore. Do you think that a patch pocketed, unlined/unpadded navy blazer would pass muster in dressier contexts; or would it obviously look out of place in the winter or with dressier sport coat level clothing like gray slacks and a black knit tie? And, because things continue to trend towards the casual end of the spectrum, if I do decide to replace my all-season blazer, should I look for another traditional, flap pocketed blazer, or should I just look for a patch pocketed piece in wool? Would it be less redundant to buy a slightly different style navy jacket, like one with a pattern or in a lighter shade of blue?
 

hpreston

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
1,619
Reaction score
2,509
First things first, I would invest in decent repair to your BB blazer, then the rest of your concerns are moot.

If you choose not to do that, then....
  1. "Do you think that a patch pocketed, unlined/unpadded navy blazer would pass muster in dressier contexts?"
    1. Without seeing it, I think it might look out of place in dressier settings (not quite right right with grey trousers, YMMV)
    2. As you stated, things are leaning more casual, so it could likely work in most but not all settings.
  2. If you choose to replace, I recommend solid navy with patch pockets in a nicer wool with some texture (hopsack, mockleno etc), again, as you sated, things lean more casual. A navy wool sport coat will serve you well.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Summer Loafers: With or Without Socks?

  • With socks

  • No socks


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
459,894
Messages
9,978,341
Members
207,795
Latest member
Taregam
Top