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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Fully Threaded

    Fully Threaded Member

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    This is standard cobbler fair however it's important that they use the right kind of shoe stretcher as to not warp it. What you want is a really old fashioned looking thing that's essentially a reverse vice with metal shoe trees in it.

    Fortunately you're in LA where we actually have quality cobbler services. Go to Andre No. 1 Shoe Design on Sunset (front entrance remains closed - you actually enter through the RiteAid lot on Fairfax). They're by far the best. They do bespoke shoes, custom wraps, repair leather accessories, clean shoes and so on, and they've got the old-school shoe stretcher in there. They even have something to stretch a leather jacket. They'll stretch your sneakers for $20, it'll take a week.

    I know someone's going to say you can just buy shoe stretchers off of Amazon. I recommend you don't.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2017


  2. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior Member

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    I am going to buy my first calf leather oxfords (already have half-brogue suede brown oxfords). Should I go for black or dark brown calf? I am mainly going to use the oxfords for a wedding next week, and interviews. I have a navy suit, and I think both colours match well with the suit, but I want something that is the most versatile for most occassions.
     


  3. justridiculous

    justridiculous Distinguished Member

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  4. Fully Threaded

    Fully Threaded Member

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    [​IMG]

    Can a tailor reduce the collar on a sweater such as seen here to be something hyper-minimal/narrow?
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2017


  5. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Distinguished Member

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    Given enough money, a sufficiently skilled tailor can perform almost any alteration you can imagine. Sometimes, the result is even acceptable. :)

    But the collar on that sweater certainly doesn't strike me as being all that oversized. Unless you're going for a turtleneck or something, I'm not sure getting it made hyper-minimal would be an improvement.

    Are hyper-minimal sweater collars currently trendy? I admit to not paying much attention to what's in fashion, so I'm asking out of genuine curiosity.
     


  6. Fully Threaded

    Fully Threaded Member

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    Sweater necks I find confining. I feel like sweater collars are choked up because the closer to your neck they are, the warmer they keep you. But in LA it doesn't get that cold. The fashion here is, as you probably are aware, uber-casual and when you think "LA fashion" you think Yeezy sweaters with holes in them. While you don't necessarily need clothing that's moth-eaten, a man walking around in a cable-knit turtleneck made of cashmere is a bit out of place. Makes me think "responsible dad" not "suave sex symbol".

    FWIW I'm having a ton of trouble finding sweaters that I don't think make me look just a little too much of a square. I usually freeze in winter as a result. Hopefully this year will be different.

    [​IMG]

    I think this sweater is an example of something that's just perfect: Looks warm but also very loose and casual. It has much more sex appeal imo than this one below:

    [​IMG]
    [photos are of linen PRL & cashmere RLPL respectively]
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2017


  7. burnham

    burnham Active Member

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  8. Hiamosey

    Hiamosey Senior Member

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    I am a complete beginner when it comes to thrifting Sport Coats/Blazers. Can someone suggest a few designers I should at? Perhaps a few to stay away from?

    So far I've been focusing on Canali and Brioni.

    I know it's a fairly open-ended question. Just looking for a few places to start.
     


  9. Fully Threaded

    Fully Threaded Member

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    Definitely open-ended but you can at least have a starting point: Which brand or brands do you really like? You enjoy their cuts, fabrics and so on? Learn their labels really well. A lot brands you like will have gone through a lot of different phases. For example, are you aware that Brioni did a "Brioni Sport" line at one point? Do you know if it's the same level of quality as their mainline? Did they have good and bad eras of quality (Brioni fortunately has remained fairly consistent)? As an example of how knowing the brand helps: I just posted in the fake or real thread about a Brioni sweater I bought that I thought might not be legit because I'd never seen an embroidered tag. It is definitely real, but I almost held off because I wasn't familiar with tag label style.

    The more you know about Canali, Brioni, the better, nd the more brands on your list the better. One reason I stay away from thrifting YSL & Lanvin is because they have too many licensing deals and I find it annoying trying to figure out which labels mean what. I don't love their products enough to educate myself thoroughly. On the other end of the spectrum, I don't look for Hermès that often because their prices stay so high on almost all their products that it's unlikely to find a killer deal.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2017


  10. Hiamosey

    Hiamosey Senior Member

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    Okay, all of this is very helpful. I suppose I was looking for a shortcut. I'm not looking for to re-sell anything. I feel like there might be a lot of value in thrifting a few sport coats to round out my daily-wear/work wardrobe.

    I'm not going to keep posting links and asking for opinions but am I on the right track, in terms of decent value, with something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Canali-Ita...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

    Thanks
     


  11. Fully Threaded

    Fully Threaded Member

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    Where do you guys search for vintage menswear other than eBay? I'm finding Poshmark to be a bit lacking.
     


  12. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    Etsy occasionally has gems, or specific dealers such as Vestiaire du Renard or Savvy Row
     


  13. Fully Threaded

    Fully Threaded Member

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    Thanks man. I'm checking out eBay, Etsy, Vestaire, Grailed & The Real Real.
     


  14. Fully Threaded

    Fully Threaded Member

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    How many 45-50cm crocodile belly skins does it take to make a traditional moto jacket?

    I see these designer jackets in exotics from Balmain, Rick Owens, Gucci, Burberry and so on and they're always $50k+. Hermes & Philip Plein sold a couple jackets for $150k. Same question about the exotic duffle bags - they're always $25-50k. I feel like the cost of materials doesn't merit it though so someone help me with the math. Buying bulk porosus even at $800 a hide, couldn't you make a jacket with like 4 hides or $3200 in materials cost, making the end retail product under $10k?

    Normally the cost of super high-end RTW tends to be similar in cost to bespoke (for example buying a nice Kiton OTR vs strutting down Saville row you could get similar suits for $5000). So if someone's getting a porosus moto jacket, are they guaranteed to end up paying $10k+ given comparable leathers or is it going to be a steal when compared to the price of fashion lines?
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017 at 8:16 PM


  15. Slh

    Slh Senior Member

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    I bought a sweater which has a saddle/raglan shoulder construction, is there some guideline regarding fit of these kind of shoulder costructions? When you have a classic shoulder construction, the side seams should be on top of your shoulders, is there something similar regarding the saddle/raglan shoulder? Or just make sure that chest fit and sleeves length is good and move on?
     


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