Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. cakv

    cakv Senior member

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    Ah, so may I ask what soft tailoring is then? I'm reading an old thread started by David reeves and am still not sure.
     


  2. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I take it to mean tailoring (jackets) with little or no padding, light canvas, and sometimes (though not always) literally soft cloth used to make the jacket. The canvas seems to me to be the most important factor in achieving a "soft" look. Something lighter than the heavier horsehairs that accompanies other jackets and gives them a structured, "harder," look. If I can give my own example, here is a picture of a flannel sport coat by Kent Wang with no padding and a light canvas. It almost fits and feels like a sweater.

    tnb2.png
     


  3. Kelvin0683

    Kelvin0683 Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone have recommendations as to where I can find cufflinks for around $100?
     


  4. cakv

    cakv Senior member

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    @Caustic Man

    Thank you! That was very helpful. Is rooing inherently formal? If I were to make/buy a coat, I'd like it to have very lightly padded shoulders with roping
     


  5. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    IMO very little is INHERENTLY formal. It all depends on the context an led what you do with it.

    @Kelvin0683 it depends on what kind of cuff links you want. KentWang.com has some excellent ones.
     


  6. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior member

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    I have some trousers that are a bit loose around the seat. I asked my local alterations place if they could take in the centre seat seam around 1cm on each side of the seam. They said that it wasn't possible to do this without taking in the waist as well, as the 'seam needs to remain straight'. Can that be right? I would have thought doing this wasn't any different, in a way, to letting the waist out by this amount and leaving the lower seat unaltered.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2017


  7. Luaks

    Luaks New Member

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    I'm not sure if I am in the correct thread here, cause this is my first post, but I have a question regarding my new trousers. Since I moved to a new city, I gave them to a new tailor, who didn't do a good job in my opinion. The pants only needed to be hemmed, but after the alternations, they don't fall naturally/straight anymore (not in one line). Could that be, because the cuffs aren't aligned correctly to the inseam? I'll attach two pictures to show you what I mean. Any other solutions for my problem?

    Thank you!
    IMG_20170920_005032[1].jpg IMG_20170920_005100[1].jpg
     


  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Without seeing you in the pants. It can be done without going into the waist
     


  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  10. johngreen

    johngreen Senior member

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    This seems like an old question, I googled it but too much irrelevant info. so here I post it and hopefully some gents could post concise answers that would help new comers...

    Q: How to remove shell cordovan " white layers " or " blooms"?
     


  11. Churchill W

    Churchill W Senior member

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    Just brush!
     


  12. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    +1. There's a reason it's called soft tailoring. It's focused on what happens after the cutting: the construction and making up of the coat out of the cut pieces of cloth--in short, the tailoring. So you can have drape-y or loose-fitting cuts with some rather hard tailoring in the chest piece and the shoulder pads, as on some 1980s A&S coats. And you can have quite clean-fitting cuts with soft tailoring, as is not uncommon today in some of the stuff coming from or inspired by Naples (some of the coats pictured look like they have harder tailoring, but some of the fitted cuts look pretty soft). French houses don't tailor as soft as some Neapolitans, but they do use softer constructions than Savile Row, while favoring cleaner, closer-fitting chests than most SR houses.

    Caustic's coat looks like it's both soft-tailored and cut with some ease, but the two are separable. You can even use soft and hard tailoring on different parts of the coat, having lightly constructed shoulders and a structured chest, or heavily constructed shoulders and a lightly constructed chest.
     


  13. johngreen

    johngreen Senior member

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    Thanks for the response, brush might temporarily remove the blooms but once you put them on and walk 2-3 mins, the blooms show up again.... would anyone know a once-for-all method to cure the problem?
     


  14. Churchill W

    Churchill W Senior member

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    It's just going to keep coming out until there isn't anymore from what understand
     


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