Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Coldsnap

    Coldsnap Senior member

    Messages:
    8,051
    Likes Received:
    994
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2008
  2. alexei

    alexei Senior member

    Messages:
    305
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2006
    Location:
    I'm your neighbor
    The numbering system is a bit more complicated than most people think. And it evolves over time. Here is a brief overview.

    Here is for the silk twill.

    - Hermes first introduced Hermes ties and labeled them "## xx" (for example, the popular 59 EA). Now, most documents online claim that the xx is the name of the artist, or the code for the design department, or the one who hand stitched the ties, etc., but I personally highly doubt that, since all of them end with A).
    - In the early 70s, they started expanding their market and introduced a lot new designs, thus, the 2 digits must be extended to 3 digits. Hence we have "### xx".
    - At the end of the 80s, the 3-digit numbers ran out, so they started using 4 digit, hence "7### xx"
    - At the end of the 90s, these 7000s numbers ran out, so they started "5### xx". So the newest ties are 5000s, with the higher the last 3 digits the newer. For example, 5465 to 5486 = Fall/Winter 2009, 5430 to 5460 = Spring/Summer 2009, etc.,

    Other than silk twill:


    Also at the end of the 80s, the company started producing different lines (heavy silk, wool, cashmere, linen, etc.), and new numbering system is required. So they labeled all of them with the following format: "##-####-T##" where the first ## indicates the type: 00 means the classic silk twill, 75 means the heavy silk, the second group of 4-digits #### is the design number. The last 2 digits = the color code.


    Wow! Yes, that's more trouble than its worth. I will leave the tie for someone who might actually like it.
     
  3. gumercindo

    gumercindo Senior member

    Messages:
    2,201
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2007
    Location:
    DC Suburbs
    What color SC is best to match up with mid grey and charcoal pants? Navy? Patterned? Are mid grey-charcoal pants not a good match for sportscoats? Should these colors be saved for suitings instead?
     
  4. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,032
    Likes Received:
    35,183
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2009
    Location:
    LuxeSwap
    Hermes info:

    Jesus sir. You just defined the name of this thread. Perfection. [​IMG]
     
  5. enginerd917

    enginerd917 Senior member

    Messages:
    143
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2009
    What is the difference between Brooks Brothers sport shirts and dress shirts? (mainly interested in button down collars)

    I didn't realize sizing was different as well, I'm wearing a 15-32 Slim fit in the Non-Iron dress shirt. Small or medium in the sport shirt slim fit?
     
  6. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,603
    Likes Received:
    109
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2003
    What color SC is best to match up with mid grey and charcoal pants? Navy? Patterned? Are mid grey-charcoal pants not a good match for sportscoats? Should these colors be saved for suitings instead?
    Mid to dark gray is probably the most versatile color for odd trousers. Depending on the precise tone, they can work with all kinds of jacket colors including navy, olive, and brown. Patterns, too. There are a pretty fair number of photos here in the WAYWT thread and elsewhere of gray odd trousers with jackets if you want to see particular examples.
     
  7. zeroconspiracy

    zeroconspiracy Senior member

    Messages:
    130
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2010
    Location:
    Northern California
    I need a few questions addressed:

    1) Leather Soled Shoes - I have some brown cap-toed Bruno Magli oxfords with leather soles. Being the first pair of leather soles i have owned, they seem to be wearing thin quickly (approx. 6 months.) i have never worn them in the rain but they have gotten damp a few times the day-after a rain. Please advise to the average life span before a shoe needs to be resoled and how to get the longest possible life span.

    2) I recently saw a movie and an actor was wearing a button down ainsley collar. I have normally been apposed to button down collars because the ones I have usually seen are limp, thin, flimsy collars. This one was solid, well constructed, and came to a solid point (possibly 1.75" in length). any advice on designers who make this kind of sturdy button down?

    3) Paste vs. Polish - once again, the brunos. I have a black pair of bruno oxfords that I rubbed down with saddle soap and shined with some black Kiwi shoe paste. worked great. I got some natural colored Kiwi polish for my brown cap-toes, rubbed them down with saddle soap, and the polish was super waxy and gave me trouble (probably because my shoes were damp and it was waxy). I am leaning towards ditching polish and going only paste. Any advice on this age old debate?
     
  8. dmash

    dmash Senior member

    Messages:
    4,372
    Likes Received:
    275
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2009
    Location:
    Germany
    So does the blue sole on some Sutors indicate these are higher quality?
     
  9. Jay Gatsby

    Jay Gatsby Senior member

    Messages:
    873
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Looking at J. Press jackets... why are they all 3 button? Also could someone please explain to me their use of the terms 'darted' and 'sack' when describing their sportcoats?

    Obliged,
    J
     
  10. gumercindo

    gumercindo Senior member

    Messages:
    2,201
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2007
    Location:
    DC Suburbs
    So does the blue sole on some Sutors indicate these are higher quality?

    From what I understand, they all have blue soles now. But, a few yrs ago, I think the top ones had a blue sole. Also, I think the script writing on SM soles indicate better quality.
     
  11. mrtef3

    mrtef3 Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2010
    Gentlemen:

    I've got a wedding coming up at the end of the month, and I'd like to break out my AE black/white spectators. Questions: I've got two cotton-poplin suits, khaki and oyster (stone) - which color do you think would look better with the black/white specs (and matching black/white spectator belt)?

    Second question, if I successfully resist the urge to wear a black dress shirt with this ensemble, is white my only other option (wearing a black/tan XMI repp tie)?

    Finally, would a small, bakelite or silk, black rose lapel pin be considered gauche in a non-business social setting? I thought it might be a nice touch with the spectators.

    Thanks for the help!

    -Tom-
     
  12. D Yizz

    D Yizz Senior member

    Messages:
    574
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2010
    Location:
    Puerto Rico
    Flat front chinos, creased or no crease? Yay, nay, sometimes? Explain.
     
  13. runner-guy

    runner-guy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,092
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2009
    Flat front chinos, creased or no crease? Yay, nay, sometimes? Explain.

    Personally, I don't like wearing my chinos with creases. I just think it looks cleaner without them.
     
  14. D Yizz

    D Yizz Senior member

    Messages:
    574
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2010
    Location:
    Puerto Rico
    Me too, but I usually wear them sans sc's. The other day I wore one with a linen sc and wondered if it'd look better creased.
     
  15. porcelain monkey

    porcelain monkey Senior member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    21
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2008
    Location:
    Boston
    Flat front chinos, creased or no crease? Yay, nay, sometimes? Explain.

    Depends. Casually, No. With jacket and tie, Yes. Something in between, Maybe.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by