Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[ovlov]



Navy, charcoal, mid grey.

Subtle patterns are ok, but focus on the solids first, they are way more versatile.

Navy suit is great for a wedding, btw. I'd get a nice navy suit and wear it for normal wear afterwards.

Yeah I thought as much. It might sound stupid but I feel stupid for getting a really nice navy suit as my first for work. So if I wear navy for the wedding I either end up wearing the suit I already own (doesn't sound like much fun) or buy Another nice navy suit and end up rotating a limited wardrobe of 1 plain grey and 2 plain navy.
Is that a ridiculous concern to have?

 

[books and tweed]

I've grown obsessed lately with the idea of a light, unlined, unconstructured sport coat in a charcoal linen. Being rather new to the bespoke process, I was curious where I would look to source the linen - something especially light in weight but in a rich, deep colour, preferably a charcoal? 3R2, dual vents, flap pockets, buttons in a subtle, aged gunmetal or bronze color.

Would this be relatively expensive to have made compared to a normal sport coat? It seems that since there would be such little construction, it would be cheaper.

 

[Veremund]



Hey I'm getting married soon in a daytime event but I really wouldn't like to be wearing a suit, I know it's a crime to use a tux before 6 pm but I'm the groom isn't there a license like wearing a red bow tie without a cummerbund and vest? Or something else... Any suggestions I really want to our a classic black tux

Wear a stroller.

 

[E TF]



I've grown obsessed lately with the idea of a light, unlined, unconstructured sport coat in a charcoal linen. Being rather new to the bespoke process, I was curious where I would look to source the linen - something especially light in weight but in a rich, deep colour, preferably a charcoal? 3R2, dual vents, flap pockets, buttons in a subtle, aged gunmetal or bronze color.

Would this be relatively expensive to have made compared to a normal sport coat? It seems that since there would be such little construction, it would be cheaper.

Charcoal sportscoats are not very versatile (have a look through jrd's sportscoat thread). Charcoal linen strikes me as double so. I would advise against it unless you already have an enormous wardrobe (like the owner of the one charcoal sc you'll see in jrd's thread). What did you imagine wearing it with, and for what occasions?

I'd also advise talking to your tailor and sourcing cloth through them for now. They'll get something they're happy working with.

 

[E TF]

Can someone give me some advice on how much to shorten these pants by to end up with a quarter break? I don't like how they're puddling in the front. I'm thinking about 0.5 inches to 0.75 inches each

Ask the tailor, but I'd guess starting with a half inch would be sensible.

Jrd you could consider getting them hemmed at an angle (I forget the technical term for this) - i.e. the front crease is slightly shorter than the back. The length at the back in some of you pics looks ok, even though they're bunched at the front.

 

[E TF]



Yeah I thought as much. It might sound stupid but I feel stupid for getting a really nice navy suit as my first for work. So if I wear navy for the wedding I either end up wearing the suit I already own (doesn't sound like much fun) or buy Another nice navy suit and end up rotating a limited wardrobe of 1 plain grey and 2 plain navy.
Is that a ridiculous concern to have?

Owning two navy suits doesn't sound like a problem to me. 80% of my suits are either navy or grey.

 

[mimo]

It's the suit that's never wrong. Also, they don't have to be at all similar. Lighter or heavier, double or single breasted, etc.

But deep down I feel you can work a bit harder on renting a morning suit

 

[ovlov]

It's the suit that's never wrong. Also, they don't have to be at all similar. Lighter or heavier, double or single breasted, etc.

But deep down I feel you can work a bit harder on renting a morning suit

Mimo, to be honest I haven't looked that hard. But I've seen a lot of comments on other threads here about how it can be hard to pull off putting the wedding party in morning suits without making them look like kids playing dressups, and renting out suits pretty much guarantees that effect.
I should also point out I live in Australia (not Sydney/Melbourne) so there are very few places to rent from and afaik only one store in town that sells morning attire, but almost certainly wouldn't stock it.

You guys might be right about the Navy though.... something in much lighter weave with peak lapels should be distinctly different enough.

 

[mimo]

Yeah. Maybe go for a double breasted in a lighter shade, with higher/wider peaks (e.g. if your existing navy is single breasted, notch lapel and dark/conservative). Brown buttons would also make it brighter and fresher, although a little less formal, depending on what line of work you're in.

 

[westhill]

Congratulations Buchoelbrusco
Tuxedo is very elegant worn with a marcella-pique fronted dress shirt that often fastens with decorative studs
so you don't then wear a waistcoat ( or vest ) as well . A red bow tie would suit a wing collar marcella dress shirt.
As to if you could wear this before 6pm , I wouldn't dare comment as in UK the usual most elegant attire for day weddings is morning suit,
long tails & striped trousers.
What's important is that all significant men,groom, best man, grooms-men adopt the same attire.
One and all , but not the guests.

 

[E TF]



Congratulations Buchoelbrusco
Tuxedo is very elegant worn with a marcella-pique fronted dress shirt that often fastens with decorative studs
so you don't then wear a waistcoat ( or vest ) as well . A red bow tie would suit a wing collar marcella dress shirt.
As to if you could wear this before 6pm , I wouldn't dare comment as in UK the usual most elegant attire for day weddings is morning suit,
long tails & striped trousers.
What's important is that all significant men,groom, best man, grooms-men adopt the same attire.
One and all , but not the guests.

Wow, that's a lot of wrong for one post.

 

[mimo]

Hahaha.

The shirt is right (that, or a pleat front, are the only correct shirts for a dinner suit). But they still require a waistcoat (usually "U-front") that must be black, or a cummerbund as a warm-weather alternative, that must also be black. A bow tie is always black - hence the expression "black tie" for this type of ensemble. The only time one can wear black tie without a waistcoat or cummerbund is if the jacket is double-breasted.

Never, ever, wear a red bow tie or cummerbund/waistcoat with a dinner suit unless you are playing the maracas in a Mexican restaurant. Regardless of the time of day.

And a dinner suit in the day time is still wrong. After all, this is the Styleforum Classic Menswear section. "Some people wear...." doesn't count for ****.

And yes, morning coats are often accompanied by striped trousers. But a morning suit is a suit, i.e. coat, waistcoat and trousers are all the same cloth. Either is correct for a day time wedding.

 

[Shoeluv]

I've grown obsessed lately with the idea of a light, unlined, unconstructured sport coat in a charcoal linen. Being rather new to the bespoke process, I was curious where I would look to source the linen - something especially light in weight but in a rich, deep colour, preferably a charcoal? 3R2, dual vents, flap pockets, buttons in a subtle, aged gunmetal or bronze color.

Would this be relatively expensive to have made compared to a normal sport coat? It seems that since there would be such little construction, it would be cheaper.

Think about buying a used one first to see if it fits in to your wardrobe. Spending a hundred bucks to find out you would never wear something as opposed to five hundred is a good idea. You can typically get some of your money back if you send it out for consignment (or sell it on eBay yourself). I recently sent out a Paul Smith gray linen jacket for consignment which was a little small on me. I was surprised how much I loved that jacket, it was more of a blue/gray than charcoal though.

 

[buchoelbrusco]

Thanks a lot for the advice and the link it's really helpful, even though SHE loves the idea of me wearing a tux I won't feel comfortable knowing I'm not doing the right thing, one never knows where gentlemen are so I think I go for the morning coat to keep it accurate but with a touch of my own personality adding a bureau bow tie and green plaid trousers as these but with black coat and waistcoat so it doesn't look that shockingly colorful. Advices and opinions would be much appreciated

 

[E TF]



Thanks a lot for the advice and the link it's really helpful, even though SHE loves the idea of me wearing a tux I won't feel comfortable knowing I'm not doing the right thing, one never knows where gentlemen are so I think I go for the morning coat to keep it accurate but with a touch of my own personality adding a bureau bow tie and green plaid trousers as these but with black coat and waistcoat so it doesn't look that shockingly colorful. Advices and opinions would be much appreciated

I say go for the green plaid trousers if you fancy it, but wear a long tie not a bow tie, and don't match the waistcoat to the morning coat. Then at least you'll look like you're deliberately breaking the rules and not just ignorant of them. You could go for a more neutral colour in the waistcoat like dove grey or buff to avoid being too colourful.