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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. SimonC

    SimonC Senior member

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    Location:
    London, England
    

    Usually the following:

    - more generous inlays to allow more alterations

    - often unhemmed (and free hemming to the correct length by the store)

    - a split waistband construction at the back, again for ease of alteration (again usually included in the price)

    - much better quality fabrics - no synthetics, often a 'luxury' blend (e.g. some silk or cashmere for sheen or softness) and perhaps some special washes or finishing effects, especially on casual fabrics

    - more decorative stitching such as pick stitching or a lapped seam down the outseam, and the potential some of this has been done by hand

    - for whatever it is worth, likely made in a high-income country like Italy rather than Cambodia, China, Bangladesh or Tunisia (to give examples)
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. SimonC

    SimonC Senior member

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    Yes they should.
     
  3. dragos25

    dragos25 Senior member

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    No, don't do it! It would make the coat look asymmetrical and really odd.
    I don't know where you get the trench= sailor association or how removing a row of buttons would help it. Trench coats originated in the army, as uniform for officers during WWI.
    Also, there's nothing wrong with looking like a sailor [​IMG]. Trenches have had two rows of buttons since the 1910's for a reason - it looks good.
     
  4. stylexchangemtl

    stylexchangemtl Senior member

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  5. TonyK

    TonyK Member

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    I've been lurking for ~2 months. I have a lot to learn, but I have to make some decisions long before I catch up.

    I choose/need to wear a suit 5 days a week and I choose/need to be well attired on the weekend. I have 4 cheap suits in heavy rotation right now, but I am due for a change (I lost weight and I want to up my game). When I change, these current suits will be retired. I do not have time to develop a deep budget or wait for useful used items to show up.

    Soooo...

    Do I get four $500 suits or two $1000 suits to keep me for the next 6-12 months?

    Thank you for your help.
     
  6. mosy

    mosy Senior member

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    Does anyone know of a shoe tree that fits particularly well with the ferragamo tramezza shoes?
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
  7. SimonC

    SimonC Senior member

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    Worth saying, but you get a lot more for your money through carefully picking up BNWT suits on eBay or even on here. There is a sufficiently deep market that if you know your measurements it's not a case of waiting until stuff comes along - just look at the inventory of the professional sellers and make offer on the items you like. $500 per suit buying at retail won't get you very far...

    That said, if you are wearing a suit every day get 4 $500 suits because if you only have two suits you will wear them out quickly.

    The advice would change if you are going to have another couple of thousand dollars to spend a few months down the line in which case introduce the better suits into your current rotation and then continue to do so as budget allows until you can retire your cheaper suits.
     
  8. TonyK

    TonyK Member

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    Thank you for your help. Hmmm. I just saw some BNWT stuff that was priced similar to the regular supply chain. Again, I do not have the depth of knowledge to decipher all that I see there and right away I see pitfalls. That isn't encouraging.
     
  9. Torzano

    Torzano Well-Known Member

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    Jul 19, 2015
    Just wondering if anyone else might do this. In dress shirt size I am a size 16 collar which would qualify as a large most times but when I buy sport shirts/oxford/casual button downs I will usually buy a medium because the fit is much better. The downside is that the top button does not close so there is no chance of ever wearing a tie with this shirt. I know that a tie should not be worn with a sport shirt but sometimes there is a shirt that walks the line between dress/casual. Another negative is that I think the collar always looks smaller and I love the big collar roll.
     
  10. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    Also, Suit Supply. They use great wool and very good construction, but still sell new suits at a great price. Worth looking into, particularly if you have a brick and mortar near you.
     
  11. dragos25

    dragos25 Senior member

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    How do you guys recommend storing corduroys, especially thicker wale ones? I store my thin/ pincord 5 pocket ones like jeans, folded on the side seams and then in half, but if I do that to thicker, trouser-cut cords, i get ugly creases on the side of the leg, and if i fold them with the side seams together and hang them on a bar or clamp and hang them from the cuffs, the fabric gets squished down where it touches the trouser bar or clamp[​IMG]
    Any help is really appreciated!
     
  12. Churchill W

    Churchill W Senior member

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    Store my 8-wale cords like I do my trousers with the fold down the middle of pant, i.e., not down the outseam/inseam, in half with a half fold at the knee. I use the dry cleaner hangers and don't think I have any issues creasing that I'm aware of.
     
  13. dragos25

    dragos25 Senior member

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    Thanks for the reply! The cords that I get the creasing on are 7 wale and I think I'll store them folded like you describe, but keep them in a drawer instead of hanging them. Maybe I get this problem because my trouser bars are too thin...
     
  14. uozay

    uozay Member

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    Thanks for the substantive reply, I appreciate it.
     
  15. uozay

    uozay Member

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    Can a quilted barbour jacket be tailored?
     
  16. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Yes they can. :nodding:
     
  17. cakv

    cakv Senior member

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    I love the aesthetic of Ring Jackets, but why is the button stance so darn high?
     
  18. cakv

    cakv Senior member

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  19. RSartorius

    RSartorius Member

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    Apr 28, 2014
    I had some suits come back from a reputable dry cleaner smelling densely of chemicals, and after hanging them for weeks with intermittent wear, then still smell and it gives me headaches. What went wrong, and how do I solve this?
     
  20. Slh

    Slh Senior member

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    Mar 27, 2010
    Location:
    Italy
    what would be the most versatile colour for a knit tie?
    Consider it will be a tie worn with a navy hopsack jacket during summer and surely blue shirts.
    I considered navy, but the jacket is navy, so I would avoid.
    Black, too dramatic.
     

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