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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. dragos25

    dragos25 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Apr 30, 2015
    Location:
    Romania
    Except for lasted shoe trees, split toes are the best fit for shoes, and make creases in leather disappear a bit better.The split toe can also theoretically allow better air circulation and help shoes dry faster.
    I'm personally satisfied with solid trees, but split toes are often a sign of quality, although IMO solid, wide wooden heel pieces that don't stretch out or deform the heel counters of your shoes are more important than split toes.
     
  2. rossg1

    rossg1 Member

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    Oct 28, 2013
    Thanks. I've found a few pairs, but none just like these. The closest I've seen are the Gucci ones. Any links to similar ones possibly?
     
  3. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Nov 13, 2012
    Gucci, Cole Haan (I lowkey like their outlet models best), Jay Butler, AE.
     
  4. rossg1

    rossg1 Member

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    Oct 28, 2013
    Jay Butler's were exactly what I was looking for. Would have never known to check their site, thanks so much!
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. colco

    colco Senior member

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    Jun 29, 2015
    Location:
    Hudson County NJ
    If a shirt already has darts, can it easily (read: inexpensively) be made slimmer?
     
  6. dragos25

    dragos25 Senior member

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    Apr 30, 2015
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    Romania
    
    Yes, this is a simple alteration that should be pretty cheap. It's basically just redoing the dart seams parallel to the old ones and an inch or less towards the inside of the shirt.At least that's how I do it. If there's too much fabric to be taken in it'll have to be taken out of the sides too, which could end up costing more.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  7. MDisciple87

    MDisciple87 Active Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 12, 2014
    Couple of related questions:

    1. 3 or 4 stud holes on a tuxedo shirt? I've read that traditional/old styles took only 3, but it is much more common now to find 4 holes. It seems that a lot of the time the vintage sets of studs on Ebay have only 3 studs.

    2. Are 4 stud holes then frowned up by the 'classists'?

    3. Getting a shirt made at Proper Cloth and they do 4 holes. Could a tailor remove the stitching on the back enclosure, sew the fabric and add a button to 'make' another buttoned hole? Is this weird or even necessary?
     
  8. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    Three is the traditional number, but modern day, ready-to-wear tuxedo shirts are far more likely to have four.

    I prefer three. If you were getting a bespoke shirt made, okay, then I suppose I'd suggest you go with three. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it all that much.

    If it's got 5 stud holes, avoid it. One's got to draw a line somewhere.

    Often true.

    It's something to keep in mind if you own many vintage stud sets with 3 studs each, I guess.

    I don't doubt that there are some who would frown upon you wearing a shirt that takes four studs, in much the same way that there are some who frown (depending upon the situation) upon you wearing bluchers instead of balmorals, satin trim instead of grosgrain, broadcloth instead of Oxford, and so forth.

    But the vast majority of people truly won't care whether your tuxedo shirt takes three studs or four. And wearing a four-stud shirt isn't some horrible faux pas, like showing up at a state funeral in madras shorts and an "I'm With Stupid" hoodie.

    Of, for goodness sake - if you're getting a shirt made up either have it made the way you prefer, or shop elsewhere. Getting a shirt made, then having it changed this way, is just silly.

    The mere fact that you're asking these questions suggests to me that you won't be entirely comfortable with a shirt taking four studs. You'll constantly be wondering if you've made a mistake. So spare yourself the second guessing, and find someone who'll make the shirt the way you want - taking three studs - and be done with it. Even if it costs a few bucks more, it'll be worth it for your peace of mind.
     
  9. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    Austin
    Agree with this. I'm willing to bet that if you contact Proper Cloth they'll be willing to accommodate you.
     
  10. BrooksLauren77

    BrooksLauren77 Senior member

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    TrudeauLand
    I think they'd look better on your face if you grew out your beard more.
     
  11. rjsphd

    rjsphd Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 18, 2004
    I am about to buy a suit and am curious how to tell if it is full canvas, half-canvas or fused without taking it to a tailor? I have been lucky that my suits are full canvas, but have to admit I don't know how to tell other than by brand.
     
  12. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    Location:
    Austin
    Who are you buying it from? You can always ask beforehand. There's something called the "pinch test" and it's mostly accurate. If you pinch down by the buttons on both sides (in and out) and pull away a little bit, you should be able to feel a third, textured layer in there.

    Quote: @Xenon ...

    Look at the exterior cloth surface of the suit. Now try to find the underside of that exterior cloth in the suit front panels. Can you locate it? Does that surface have the same appearance as the external suit surface? If not than fusing is present. The fusing is maybe black. As said above a fused cloth will look and feel like a single layer upon casual inspection.


    http://www.styleforum.net/t/269171/canvas-and-suit-construction/0_30

    http://putthison.com/post/2817493175/chest-canvas-and-the-pinch-test-id-been

    http://putthison.com/post/35710706689/why-youre-unlikely-to-tell-between-a-fused-and

    http://www.artofmanliness.com/2010/...-suit-school-part-i-fused-vs-canvassed-suits/
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  13. mco543

    mco543 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 11, 2009
    This is probably a longshot but would anyone be able to post the Zegna for Bergdorf ad that ran in the Esquire 75th Anniversary issue? It featured a guy wearing sunglasses in a peak lapel suit and tie and driving gloves driving an old car.

    Thanks so much.
     
  14. MDisciple87

    MDisciple87 Active Member

    Messages:
    32
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2014
    What's the thoughts on Pantherella OTC socks for guys with smaller feet? I'm a size 8 US, but it seems that they only make M and up socks which they recommend starting with size 9 feet.

    Do these fit or do they look comically large? Any other sock manufacturers worth recommending that would cater to my size? Thanks.
     
  15. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    Aug 29, 2013
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, MI
    After a couple of washes my Pantherella OTC wool socks just fit my US 8.5 feet fine, but they might run a bit long on you.
     
  16. munchausen

    munchausen Senior member

    Messages:
    8,189
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    Oct 22, 2009
    Looking for a casual sport coat to wear with dark denim. $200 or under. Mid weight, cotton or cotton/wool blend would be ideal. Tan, brown, light grey would all work. Ideal would be no too fashionish but not old man either. Something that would work for a guy in his 30s. Thanks.
     
  17. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Aug 16, 2012
    Just don't.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. BrooksLauren77

    BrooksLauren77 Senior member

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    TrudeauLand
    Why not?
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Hypetrain

    Hypetrain Well-Known Member

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    Jul 31, 2015
    Location:
    Behind you.
    +1
     
  20. iloveshirts

    iloveshirts Active Member

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    Jun 6, 2015
    What do you think to the fit of this jacket? I think the sleeve length is too short.

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]
     

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