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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. yanagi

    yanagi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 14, 2014
    I bought a navy blazer from Spier and Mackay. One of my female colleagues today said I looked nice in it but that it didn't look enough like a blazer to her. I suspect it's because the buttons aren't metal. I'm looking for some opinions on which of the following two buttons would look better with the blazer:

    http://www.britexfabrics.com/button...antique-silver-blazer-button-made-in-usa.html
    http://www.britexfabrics.com/buttons/blazer/fouled-anchor-silver-blazer-button.html

    Or if there's another one that you have in mind that's close to the price, please feel free to mention it.

    Here's the blazer (sorry for the bad lighting):

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. jimmycth

    jimmycth Active Member

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    Malaysia
    

    It is bespoke and I'm (extremely) short. About 163cm. Hence I opted for a shorter length hoping that it'll increase the perceived height. If you can't tell that I'm short from the picture, I'm guessing that it is working?


    It's a two button. Given the new information, how low will you move the button stance?
     
  3. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    Vancouver, BC
    Perhaps one window pane lower.
     
  4. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Well-Known Member

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    No, one couldn't tell you were short, simply because there was nothing in the picture against which your height could be judged. The length of your jacket really had absolutely nothing to do with it.
     
  5. E TF

    E TF Well-Known Member

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    Herts, U.K.
    

    I think that's just right. The buttoning point (top one of a two button, middle of a three) should be judged in relation to the waist - follow the line of the checks in your jacket from the most nipped in bit at the side and the button placement is at about the same point. You can go slightly higher or lower than the actual waist if you want, thought this changes the feel of the jacket. I like to go slightly lower than the actual waist, lends a more natural, relaxed look.
     
  6. jimmycth

    jimmycth Active Member

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    Thanks everyone for the input. What is the bare minimum to be lengthened for this jacket?
     
  7. costanaconda

    costanaconda Well-Known Member

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    Jul 20, 2011
    TY, sir. That was my impression as well. Just wanted to verify. It looks like their 'milano' cut, although it does not say it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  8. E TF

    E TF Well-Known Member

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    I like the length as it is, but you could try asking in the tailors thread for professional opinions.
     
  9. clarksdb

    clarksdb Well-Known Member

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    Toronto, Canada
    I am looking for a pair of sleek boots. They will mostly be worn with jeans but also want them to be a bit versitile that they can go with chinos and wool slacks.

    Keyword is SLEEK. Don't want anything that make my feet look fat.

    My budget is $100-200. Looked at the marketplace here but could not find anything. Is that my best bet? Any other options?
     
  10. BrooksLauren77

    BrooksLauren77 Well-Known Member

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    What style are you looking for? Jack Erwin has calfskin blake stitched chelsea boots for $210 and wingtip derby boots for $220; goodyear welted. If you can stretch your budget to 350, RM Williams will make you a screwed sole chelsea boot; very little if any sole protuding from the boot.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/362850/durable-modern-luxury-leather-chelsea
    Post #4.

    In the 350 range, Loding has sleek boots; chelsea, chukkas and jodhpurs among those.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  11. clarksdb

    clarksdb Well-Known Member

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    I'm looking at wingtip or cap toe boots. Don't personally like chelsea style boots.

    The $220 Jack Erwin wingtip boot looks pretty good. Do they go on sale and where are they made? Quality is on par compared to Allen Edmonds? They seem more sleek than Allen Edmonds Dalton?
     
  12. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    Given that this shows up as charcoal on my screen, I'm assuming it is a dark navy, pushing midnight? Do you want brass, or pewter? Do you want something less flashy? What buttons are on it now? If you prefer to be more subtle, bronze buttons with lots of petina might suits you. Or you could do something enameled, that would not pop as much. The darker, and more matte, obviously the less they'll stand out. I have just bought a nearly midnight DB that has gorgeous bronze coloured buttons on it, and it looks smashing.

    The standard flap pockets may also be part of what she thinks makes it look more like a suit's jacket. Patch pockets are more common on a blazer, I believe, but flaps are certainly not unusual, unorthodox, or unacceptable.

    Of the two you posted, I like the eagle buttons, assuming you're American. I wouldn't put them on one of mine, as I'm Canadian. I'm of English descent so I have Three Lions buttons on one blazer, and a set of St. George & The Dragon buttons that never ended up on a blazer yet (that's a long, funny story), and the one I just picked up seems to have the crest of the Prince of Wales on the buttons, which I absolutely love! Oddly, I would happily wear the Eagle buttons if I found them on a blazer already, but would find it inappropriate to put them on a blazer, specially. If you do not share my hang-ups about national symbols, and don't think anyone else would care, go for the Eagle buttons.

    You can order solid brass buttons (as I have in the past) from a handful of places on Savile Row. My Three Lions and St. George buttons came from there, and buttons with initials, etc., were available, as well as many other classic designs.
     
  13. BrooksLauren77

    BrooksLauren77 Well-Known Member

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    I believe the Jack Erwin boots are made in Portugal, but they don't go on sale to my knowledge. From what I've read, the quality is comparable to Meermin Mallorca shoes. The Fine Young Gentleman has a good review on a pair of oxfords.I would say the Dalton is sleeker buy only somewhat.

    http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shoes/jack-erwin-shoe-review/

    You could also check out Meermin Mallorca, but potential duties and customs would blow your budget way over.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  14. coohand

    coohand Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 18, 2014
    Any idea how to fix a brown shoe that the leather has been burned? It's my own fault, I did it. I am thinking of using a lighter shade to buff out the spot, I use cordovan on the rest of the shoe.
     
  15. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

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    Didn't you ask this? Post flicks...
     
  16. coohand

    coohand Member

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  17. BrooksLauren77

    BrooksLauren77 Well-Known Member

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    Jaysus, take it a cobbler and see what he/she has to say.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  18. CruzAzul

    CruzAzul Well-Known Member

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    Harlem, NY
  19. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Well-Known Member

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    Nov 8, 2012
    Anyone have an opinion on mixing (white) royal oxford cloth shirts with heavily textured sport coats and jeans?

    When I'm doing what I like to think of as louche casual (going out for drinks, dates, &c.), I do blue, grey, and blue/grey SC's, all heavily textured but essentially solid (linen, incl. tan in S/S) with solid white (mostly twill) tall-banded two button spread collars worn open, white linen square, and jeans. Usually topped off with MoP cufflinks and Gucci loafers, to boot... it's my preferred mix of 'high-low' - formal elements done, again, in a kind of louche casual style. I'm strongly considering replacing my white twill shirts for this look with royal oxfords, thinking it would a) add some nice more pronounced texture to the simple white, and b) also have that kind of formal element mixed with casual, coherent with the look I do in these situations. When I'm doing full on casual I swap the twills for standard white OCBDs with barrel cuffs, and the Gucci's for regular penny loafers.

    With these considerations in mind, could royal oxford work with this look, or is it simply too suit-y?

    This question might be better suited to the SW&D side, but I pretty much stick to this side of the forum so, yeah...
     
  20. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 16, 2012
    Five points to make you better:*

    - Denim is Satan's cloth, so wear jeans by all means, just make them white or coloured but never the indigo/cowboy variety. Otherwise, back to SWD with you and be damned.

    - Royal Oxford spread collar does sound too dressy; go for a button-down, which would work regardless of cloth almost

    - Cufflinks are pushing it

    - Try a pattern or two in the jacket

    - I hate Gucci loafers, try a country brogue or Norwegian




    *But I am a reactionary old fucker.
     

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