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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. ADante

    ADante New Member

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    Aug 3, 2014
    Thanks for your reply @mimo. Good to hear that from a senior member.

    EDIT: I am thin, but I have a large head :) Shoulder width... not so wide = 45 cm/17,7 inch. Can a texture of the tie work some magic in this department?

    Other opinions are welcome ofcourse.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2014
  2. docgerrard

    docgerrard Well-Known Member

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    Mar 14, 2010
    Anyone have thoughts on a good suit for interviews under $500?

    I'm thinking indochino vs suitsupply at the moment
     
  3. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Aug 16, 2012
    @ADante Best avoid really skinny ties and lapels. Medium+ I'm not sure how much the texture will make a difference, but for all the occasions you mentioned, a nice madder or Macclesfield neat in navy or burgundy would be perfect.

    @docgerrard Avoid online suit buying (see above) unless you already know something fits well - you don't want to waste money and time on something that you can have no idea will fit on the first try. Which is the answer to your question: something that fits well. Check out the sales in your town, or if you want to try SuitSupply, I'd suggest putting on a shirt and tie and proper shoes, and visiting your nearest branch to try in person.
     
  4. bbob2013

    bbob2013 Senior member

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    Oct 17, 2013

    Safest bet in my opinion… Suitsupply
     
  5. johnthebaddest

    johnthebaddest New Member

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    Aug 3, 2014
    I'm just getting into suits etc. and recently bought a shirt/tie/PS combo for a wedding coming up. I liked it in the store but now I'm second guessing myself. I'm on a budget so had to go with the existing nazy blazer I had. coupled that with grey pants (on the lighter side) with dark brown shoes/belt. That was my foundation, which to me for a summer wedding is...basic (boring?), so I wanted to infuse more colour etc. through the shirt/tie/PS. I ended up getting a striped shirt with a paisley tie and a 'loud' PS. Now I'm wondering if I've overdone it. My basic question is, does this sound like too much going on with the shirt/tie/PS? Am I over-compensating the basic foundation with too much? Should paisley ties go with checked or plain shirts? Is a paisley tie with a busy PS too much?

    I know a picture would help but I don't feel comfortable posting it online. I could maybe email one though.

    Thank you.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2014
  6. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Aug 16, 2012
    It's not your wedding, you don't need to perform.

    If you want to freshen up the look, beige trousers are more lively than grey with a blue blazer (and you look less like a concierge), but you're fine as you are, especially if you've added some colour elsewhere, and they are a lighter grey. But from what you've said, it does sound like you've tried to stuff in some "fun" elements without too much thought.

    Post pics of the shirt, tie and square, and we'll see. Also the shoes. I love to talk about shoes.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2014
  7. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Feb 12, 2012
    What's the tie knot at 5:33?

     
  8. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Feb 12, 2012
    Don't do it. I Have a Navy birdseye from HF and it's a beautiful suit. You will regret buying this suit though if you keep reading stuff on SF and develop your taste.

    Trust me, I did. I ruined a GREAT charcoal suit with brown/blue pinstripes from BB cause I wanted the pants slimmer. Teh tailor ended up cutting the fabric and there was not enough to let out once I realized how I wanted my suits to fit(took me 2.5 years to realize this).
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2014
  9. ADante

    ADante New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Aug 3, 2014
    I... don't really understand what you're trying to say. "Don't do" what?

    Either way, I opted for the charcoal birdseye suit. Once I've seen it in real life I immediately noticed the appeal of the charcoal one. The blue one was not navy, it was brighter.

    This charcoal suit looks fantastic, it's pinheads are small in size, so it actually looks like a regular charcoal suit from a distance of 2-3 meters. Only when a person comes closer they realise it's a birdseye veawing. I like this effect, people getting excited when they approach me/come closer to me, on a subconscious level this works great in the social department.

    The suit goes briliantly with black shoes and a black belt, but I'm gonna ask if you think it could go with dark brown just as nice.

    Here are the photos of the suit (click for zoom):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I think it will do just fine for a couple of months (wedding, job, or a funeral God forbid). I'm not even going to mention the material since I know it's not good (it was realtively cheap though), and I will have to earn some money before buying a better one (having it tailored).

    As mentioned before, I'm a slim/fit young guy (27yo), pale skin, narrower shoulders, big head (see picture bellow for type) + freckles and small moles (non protruding), light brown hair, solid blue eyes.

    Head type:
    [​IMG]
    "Heart" shape from this pic. High and protruded cheek bones, medium angular jaw and higher forehead (slight balding happening).

    The lapels actually look quite OK (wider than I first thought). I'll browse for some shirt and tie recommendations now.
     
  10. JSDNJ

    JSDNJ Well-Known Member

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    Mar 17, 2014
    That jacket is too short.
     
  11. ADante

    ADante New Member

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    Aug 3, 2014
    I believe it's half windsor. Could be wrong, I guess.
     
  12. JSDNJ

    JSDNJ Well-Known Member

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    Mar 17, 2014
    My chest measures 39.5'', but every time I try on a 40R OTR suit jacket it seems too big. I wound up recently buying a 38R even though my chest is almost 40''

    What gives? I have experienced this in multiple brands too. I guess my body type is weird? I always try to go from the shoulders and all the 40Rs looked too big in the shoulders.
     
  13. CruzAzul

    CruzAzul Senior member

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    1,581
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    Jan 24, 2009
    Location:
    Harlem, NY
    

    Short answer: Suitsupply yes, Indochino no.

    Basis: I have 3 SS suits and 3 of their sport coats and I never stop being impressed by the quality of the materials and workmanship for the price point. In my case it helps that they fit me almost perfectly off the peg. On the other hand, every Indochino fit I've seen (including the professionally shot images on their product page) is an utter train wreck.
     
  14. CruzAzul

    CruzAzul Senior member

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    Location:
    Harlem, NY
    

    That's 100% typical. Notice that if your waist is 32" a 32 trouser won't fit right either.
     
  15. JSDNJ

    JSDNJ Well-Known Member

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    Mar 17, 2014
    Thanks, I was worried. Not one 40 fits me even though measurements say it should.
     
  16. CruzAzul

    CruzAzul Senior member

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    Jan 24, 2009
    Location:
    Harlem, NY
    

    My actual chest measurement is 42.5". I always fit in either a 38 or a 40. A 42 is enormous on me even in slim-fitting fashion brands.
     
  17. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 14, 2008
    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    Perhaps you're mismeasuring your chest. Perhaps you just happen to try on brands which label according to some... unique... conception of size. Perhaps your body shape and/or shoulder-to-chest ratio is weird. Perhaps your standard of "too big" is not in line with what most people would regard as too big. Perhaps something else entirely.

    In any case, does it really matter? Just as a rose by any other name would smell as sweet, so will a properly-fitting jacket fit you properly, whether it's labeled a size 38, or size 40, or for that matter a size 56. It's simply a number, having little real significance beyond being a rough guide as to which jacket you ought to try on for size first.

    If you can try on the jacket in the store, no problem. If you are mail ordering jackets, try to stick with a line with whose sizing system you're familiar, and/or from someplace with easy and inexpensive return privileges.

    I understand that women often face this problem, in that a one company's size 4 jeans may be smaller than another company's size 2, or larger than a competitor's size 6. Similar situation with dresses, if my niece is to be believed. Vanity sizing, it's sometimes called. Well, maybe some company labels a size 42 men's jacket a size 38, so that men who need a size 42 can instead buy a size 38, and feel good about how slight and trim they are (these being physical qualities desired by some men).

    Sure, in an ideal world, maybe all manufacturers/retailers would honestly label a jacket's size on the basis of the jacket's actual chest measurement in inches. But last I looked, this was not an ideal world.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. logan858

    logan858 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
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    Jul 11, 2012
    i have a question regarding shoes.


    i've noticed on a lot of dress shoes that on the sole of the shoe, on the inside of the foot. Right on the heel of the shoe, there seems to typically be a triangular shape cut out of the point of the heel as it ends.

    It's never on both sides, but only the inside side of the heel.

    curious what the heck the purpose of that missing triangular piece is?

    i found a random pic of shoes with that triangular groove:
    [​IMG]
     
  19. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    so they don't get caught on your trousers when walking.
     
  20. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    7,380
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    Aug 16, 2012
    Not many SFers at risk of that. More likely to catch them on their sock garters...
     

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