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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    How complicated is taking in a jacket at the front darts? Relatively speaking, how expensive would you expect it to be?
     
  2. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    My local tailors charge about 20 for the chest and 20 for the waist, respectively. They're not the best, but it's reasonable. I need to try a different tailor though as it took this one 3 tries to get a pair of pants right (and cost about 40 dollars....).
     
  3. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Which parts of Boston are you willing to go to? I know some good ones.
     
  4. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    If I understand correctly that would require redoing the front pockets. Why would you want to do that?
     
  5. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    It's a thrifted jacket that is a bit big across the front; From pinning, this would seem to make it drape a bit better, and also improve the shape of the collar, relative to my neck. I like the jacket, and the material, just need to determine if it's worth altering, or if I should sell it.
     
  6. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I'm in somerville, but I work on the redline and am close enough downtown that I'm around plenty of things. I'd like to keep it cheap though, hence my pick of staying local to home for this stuff. I'll definitely message you if I end up with something really important or expensive though!
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2014
  7. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Is it ever appropriate to wear a vest over a sportcoat/jacket?

    I have a barbour liner vest that would be awkward underneath the jacket, but fits well on top.
     
  8. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    About as often as it is to wear your underwear over your pants.
     
  9. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Robs89 [​IMG]

    Vest - Tombolini, Suit - Suitsupply, Shirt - The Tailoring Club, Tie - Drake's London, Pocket Square - AD56, Shoes - Meermin, Watch - Rolex Submariner


    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]

    But this looks so good!
     
  10. Gerry Nelson

    Gerry Nelson Senior member

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    That looks fine over a suit jacket but would look ridiculous under one.
    This might be what 12345Michael54321 is referring to and it won't look very good over a suit jacket [​IMG]:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2014
  11. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    To get a sense of relative scale, how much would your tailor normally charge for hemming pants, shortening sleeves, and darting shirts?
     
  12. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Very nice colors....compliments.
     
  13. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    If you think it looks good, then do it. Simple as that.
     
  14. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Darting is like 10. Hemming is 12-15, sleeves about 20? Give or take a couple of bucks.


    Mine didn't so I gave up.
    :(
     
  15. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Vest over suit/jacket is more advanced and, with all due respect to people who wear that look, something where I feel like I'd see it in a sartorial/model type picture and think it looks okay and something where if I saw it on the street I'd think it does not look very good.

    That said, Rob executes it the way you'd want to if you want that look - I'm just saying I personally don't find it to be a good look.
     
  16. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    It's an awful look, foisted upon us by the likes of GQ trying to shoe horn some abomination onto the market in the vain hope of shaking up the classics to try to come up with something new - fashion, not style. Same goes for ski type parkas over suits, especially when they are shorter than the suit jacket.

    This picture is about the best I've ever seen it done, but a good looking suit like that deserves a good looking overcoat in cold weather, not something borrowed from the weekend wardrobe or the fisherman's cupboard. Imagine that navy suit worn with a herringbone chesterfield, now decide which would look better on a cold day in the city. (Love those gloves!)
     
    3 people like this.
  17. porkbellyflop

    porkbellyflop New Member

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    Sydney, Australia
    Hi,

    I've only recently started getting some bespoke clothes made, so I know very little about how these things are done. In the past, I have (sporadically) had MTM clothes made, but have always squirmed and even been horrified at the results.

    So, after lurking and searching through Styleforum for a short time, I decided to take a leap at the top end of the bespoke tailoring spectrum and I managed to find a really good bespoke tailor, who has made a suit and some shirts for me that actually make me look very smart (this was NOT an easy task). Now that he has my pattern, I feel very comfortable about getting more clothes from him (and certainly intend to do so).

    However...there seem to be also one or two other top-end bespoke tailors in my hometown who also seem to have very good reputations on Styleforum. Is there any etiquette about one keeping a strictly monogamous relationship with one's bespoke tailor at any one time? Or is it common practice to get different bespoke clothes made by different bespoke tailors in the same city all at the same time?

    Cheers and thanks for any advice.
     
  18. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    I would say if you're happy with the service, quality and price, then if it ain't broke don't fix it.

    If curiously gets the better of you, its your money and you should feel free to spend it wherever you like. Legend has it that the Duke of Windsor would have trousers made for a suit at one tailor, and the jackets made by another on opposite sides of the Atlantic so you would hardly be the first person to sample the goods at different places.
     
  19. vafan13

    vafan13 Active Member

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    Nov 27, 2011
    I'm possibly getting a MTM suit done for my wedding in June. All of the fabrics the tailor was showing me were "summer weight" 8.5oz or less. I found one I really like but it's only 7oz and based on what I've read really light fabrics don't drape or hold up their shape as well. I expressed this concern to the tailor but he more or less scoffed and said that isn't the case, it's dependent on the fabric and the weave, not the weight.

    Durability doesn't bother me much as I very rarely wear suits so this is a wedding and special occasion thing but poor drape and shape retention would. Should I be looking for a heavier fabric or is the tailor right and I shouldn't be particularly worried?


    If it matters the fabric is a Reda 95% wool, 5% cashmere
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2014
  20. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I think he's right. Those fabrics are made for the season. It might not look as formal, but it's not meant to...?
     

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