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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Shoes need to be resoled when the soles wear out. If they start to feel really soft around where the ball of the foot is, the sole is on the way out. Some replace it then, others wait until there's an actual hole. The longest you should wait is for a hole the size of a dime, according to most folks.

    You should polish your shoes whenever they need to be polished. Sorry this isn't more specific.

    Cobblers charge different prices depending on where they are. I haven't been wearing decent shoes for long enough to have a strong relationship with my cobbler, so IDK.

    Trees should fit the shoe, and the kind that fill out the heel are preferable (AFAIK -- I am a layman, after all).
     
  2. Kensington

    Kensington Senior member

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    About how much would you folks estimate the maximum a tailor could reduce in waist size without noticeably messing up the proportions?
     
  3. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Apparently he isn't the only one. Saw this just now and loled.

    [​IMG]

    J
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Count de Monet

    Count de Monet Senior member

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    Can someone recommend a brand/model of loafer that accommodates high insteps? I've tried every model in the current AE lineup with no success.
     
  5. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    :lurk: loafers.... anyone, anyone?
     
  6. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    I wear penny loafers more than any other shoe, but not having a high instep, can't really comment. I don't think of them as shoes that would accommodate that very well, they don't have the ability to adjust like a laced shoe does.

    AE does a custom thing where they can put shoes on different lasts (and select custom colors and leathers, ect), perhaps that might be worth a shot? Get your loafer on a last known to accommodate high insteps well.
     
  7. potemkin_city_limits

    potemkin_city_limits Senior member

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    I was watching House of Cards tonight and I noticed in episode 6 and 7 there is a scene where Frank has his collar unbuttoned and his tie removed and his collar stays in place at the points as if it was a button down shirt but there are no buttons.

    I was wondering if anyone has seen this and knows what type of collar it is that he is wearing. I assume its some kind of hidden button down but I figured I would put it out there to see if anyone knows for sure.
     
  8. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Very nice trouser...compliments.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Van Veen

    Van Veen Senior member

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    Haven't seen the show, but maybe he is wearing magnetic collar stays like Wurkin Stiffs.
     
  10. potemkin_city_limits

    potemkin_city_limits Senior member

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    I was almost certain that would be the first suggestion and I was going to mention in my original post that I dont think hes wearing magnetic stays. His collar doesnt look super rigid like when you wear a collar stay. There is a shot in episode 7 where it almost looks like a button but it doesnt really look like any kind of a button down when he has the collar buttoned up and his tie on.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2014
  11. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Two inches or more is pushing your luck but a good tailor will also recognize this, tell you this, and either not do the adjustment or tell you some other stuff will be thrown off due to it.

    If I am buying off the rack the most I'll ever go is one higher - I'm a 32 and won't buy higher than 33.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    What makes an expensive shirt so expensive?

    I can tell with suits, but can't really see with shirts once beyond a certain level.

    Like what is the difference between a $525 RLPL shirt and a $125 BB or RL Polo shirt?

    I have a handful of $400+ shirts (that I paid nowhere near retail for) and often shop in higher end stores, and to my eye a Peter Millar shirt at $135 can keep pace with most anything.

    Sure my Turnbull and Asser or Purple Label shirts are really nice, but why are they quadruple the price of an Ike Behar?

    Sure, with Prada or D&G a lot of it is the name, I understand that.

    J
     
  13. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Handwork, shirting, buttoning

    I don't mean this in an offensive way, but perhaps your eye can't tell the difference between hand and machine-work?
     
  14. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    I'm not offended at all, I'm asking because I want to know and learn.

    J
     
  15. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    They charge triple the price because people will pay it. Simple as that.
     
  16. Spurious

    Spurious Senior member

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    This does not explain why people pay it.
    I would be very interested in the answer as well and I am certain there is one.

    Details like button holes and handwork in places where others use machines and everything definitely contribute to it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2014
  17. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    Many, many reasons.

    The quality of the materials. Fabric used, for one, will be of the very best quality and come from the most renowned European mills. The fabric is also usually pre-washed so that it won't shrink as much as cheaper shirts. Mother of pearl buttons are also used instead of plastic ones.

    The amount of handwork involved in making the shirt. On a Borrelli or Finamore shirt for example, every seam that is possible to be made by hand is stiched by hand, by this I mean everything, buttonholes, shoulders, collar etc. The areas where machine stitching still exists remain purely for strength. Handwork takes time and skill, longer than using a sewing machine and obviously the fact of possessing that skill. Artisan shirts require artisans themselves, who aren't paid terrible wages in a big sweatshop...Borrelli used to send his items to be hand-stiched out to old women etc. to be stitched in their houses in their own time. All this is therefore factored into the cost.

    Your example of RLPL as the 'expensive' shirt isn't a very good example at all, due to the fact it possesses hardly any of the qualities above and the price is mainly for branding and branding alone. T&A is quite similar, although the fabrics they use are exquisite. However, when you consider the smaller scale makers such as those Italian ones mentioned above, then you begin to see why they cost so much.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  18. jaghetermattis

    jaghetermattis Well-Known Member

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    Ich makes a great point. A lot of it is down to return to scale in production. Some brands like suitsupply tries to mimic the feeling of brands such as the ones mentioned above. The result is, IMHO, good if not great. You have @ €99 Thomas Mason silverline fabrics with some handmade details such as button holes, pleated shoulders, collar etc, but it is certainly more industrially made than my Finamores or Barbas. It is also definitely worth mentioning that they are made - if not in sweatshops - in low wage countries such as Romania or even China. This does not mean that it is necessarily bad, just that one should be aware of what one is buying. It does of course also come down to branding, like with everything else.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    A hand sewn stitch isn't "better" than a machine made one. It takes more time, and costs more. But "better" is subjective.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. jaghetermattis

    jaghetermattis Well-Known Member

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    A fair point. On some of my shirts the hand made details have actually resulted in loose thread. But it explains (and for many, warrants) the higher cost.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2014

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