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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. mezentius

    mezentius Senior member

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    Looking more for general info articles about stuff I need to take into consideration rather than specific recommendations - as it stands right now even I don't really know what I want, because I have no idea about the things which are out there.
     
  2. Chopper88

    Chopper88 Senior member

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    I get your point, and already feared my answer wouldn't be too clear.
    What I tried to do, is warn you of the 'good quality' thing and about what you are going to find and read. This also relates to general research in my opinion. You can learn about how watches work internally, but still the quality of how two different watches implement one function is subjective. Of course you can see it like the example you mentioned about shoes, there are some common factors, like complications, you can read about what certain complications and their variations do. But the thing is, what you want is going to constantly change, depending on how much affinity you're going to develop for watches. When looking at watches not interested in their internals, you'll like a whole other set of watches as when you'll value the craftsmanship of the movement inside.

    The main thing to take in consideration is your budget. It feels as if you know absolutely nothing about watches? If this is true, I'd suggest you start reading about complications and watch sizes, and when it's appropriate to wear them. Then I'd set a budget, see which watches reside in this budget and select a few to research. Then compare them in detail, read a lot about them, read on their movements and compare them to much more and much less expensive movements with the same complications (if any) and try to see why those other watches are priced this way. If you're really interested in this, you'll learn to recognise quality. Also, try to learn about the costs that come with owning a high end watch, servicing every 3-5 years, the price of straps and bracelets etc. When you've done a lot of reading, you'll notice your preference is going to shift in a certain direction, only then it's time to really start searching for what you want.

    Unfortunately, my experience is also that you can do all the research you want, but some watches just don't work for some people in real life. I think a common problem is watch sizes, a lot of people are really put off by how small/big and especially how high a watch can be when handling it in the metal. Don't just look at faces and flat pictures.
     
  3. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    Mezentius - you might be better off looking through one of the dedicated watch forums like time zone. I'm sure there's tonnes of reading material over there to get you started.
     
  4. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    What's your price range when you say good quality? In my books Seiko are good at like 200-800~, but many go for higher.
     
  5. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    There are two reasons: one is that the UK sizes tend to refer to the expected size of the foot, whereas the US size refers to the size of the shoe with a little "wiggle room", although this varies greatly by last and manufacturer. The other is that many high end English makers use narrower than average lasts as their "medium" width - Edward Green, John Lobb, Gaziano & Girling, Crockett & Jones all use "E" as their standard, whereas other makers consider "E" narrow: Church's, Cheaney, Alfred Sargeant, Grenson, Barker, Loake and others use "F" as medium. This is of course doubly confusing as "E" means wide to Americans.

    I wear a UK 9.5 F (medium) in most English shoes, and a G (wide) in some of Church's and Cheaney's lasts. I also take "F", which is their "wide", in Crockett & Jones and Edward Green. I wear a steady 10E in all Allen Edmonds. I therefore take a slightly wider fitting in both English and American sizes, with a half size difference. Of course, I could probably wear an American 10.5 D as well as a 10E, but by the same token, were I to choose a narrow shoe like a Edward Green "E" fitting, I'd have to go up to a UK 10 as well. Same difference.

    P.S. I recently bought a Grenson boot from East Dane, sized UK 9.5. According to Grenson, this is actually in their "G" fitting as standard, i.e. a rather wider last anyway, presumably to accommodate thicker socks to match the heavy country style. I find it accordingly more generous than a 10E in Allen Edmonds, but doubt I could size down.

    Read "The Watch Appreciation Thread" on this forum. It will both educate you and ruin your life. Discussion of cheaper watches is perfectly permissible (and relatively frequent). But seriously, this stuff is crack.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    You should check out the "TWAT" (The Watch Appreciation Thread) thread and ask there.
     
  7. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    So, basically, don't buy English shoes without trying them on first.

    Excellent post, btw. Very useful information.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  8. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Or at least asking about a specific pair first. But in general, I think the half size difference is usually a closer guess than the full size, especially with the higher-end stuff.
     
  9. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Don't know if this gooes here... but where I can buy solid henleys? Around here there are practically unexistant. [​IMG]
     
  10. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    In that range, I'd go used. The best Seiko's cost north of 1K.

    I would, however, recommend the Orange/black monster in that price range. They can be had fairly inexpensively as far as good watches are concerned. Cheaper used as well.
     
  11. Count de Monet

    Count de Monet Senior member

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    I have three pair of #8 shell. Curious, I checked.

    The oxford wingtips have black welting and edging and black laces.

    The PTB's and LWB's have a more brownish welting and edging and, coincidentally or not, both pair have dark brown laces.

    I'll confess to never having noticed before your question.
     
  12. Count de Monet

    Count de Monet Senior member

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    Two questions relating to pairings of sport coat (with tie) and odd trousers.

    1. Best two or three color pairings with a brown jacket.

    2. Best color pairings with olive wool pants.

    Thanks!
     
  13. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    1) Mid grey, light grey, mid grey again.
    2) Nothing, olive is a very, very hard color. Maybe some sort of grey SC? But grey SCs are themselves hard, and the whole thing runs the risk of looking like a 1990's Jos A Bank ad.
     
  14. Count de Monet

    Count de Monet Senior member

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    Thanks again.

    1) Would any shade of tan/lighter brown/cream be tolerable if the dark/light contrast were obvious enough? Or best simply stick to grays?

    2) Duly noted.
     
  15. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    I don't know I think Olive looks good with a dark blue sport coat.
     
  16. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    What's the general consensus on trenchcoats here (from burberry especially)? Are they on the casual side? I would've thought they are supposed to be an overcoat but I see most of the photos they have are worn without jackets, right on top of shirts. I thought they would be good for rainy weather that aren't too cold ie autumn etc where rain/wind may pick up but it's not freezing.

    Really want this one to wear semi casually: http://uk.burberry.com/mid-length-cotton-gabardine-trench-coat-p38946931

    But seems like it wouldn't be very versatile.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2014
  17. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Yeah, I think a cream could work, so long as the contrast is there. It's definitely tricky. Put it this way--I would suggest buying 4-5 pair of different mid-to-light grey trousers before any other color.

    Also, I realized my previous post came off somewhat snarky, so apologies for that.



    It might work... Would have to see some examples. I think it would be very, very dependent on the respective shades of the pants and jacket.

    Regardless, I'd pretty much never recommend someone go out and buy olive pants.
     
  18. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    What? Gray might work with brown SCs in some cases, but it's not usually the best option with earthtones. A much lighter or much darker brown than the jacket (chocolate brown/khaki) works well, olive works well, navy works well. I'd put gray of any shade behind all of those on my list of recommendations.

    And olive is not that hard a color. Gray sportcoats do work- a gray herringbone tweed is not hard, a gray windowpane is not hard. Also, navy, and any earthtone distinct enough from the pants.


    Honestly, it sounds to me like you're really not anywhere near comfortable enough about earthtones to be giving advice on wearing them. Yeah, brown is for farmer, blah blah blah. Try it sometime- it's a wonderfully rich color.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2014
  19. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I'd put grey way ahead of brown, olive or navy. For just about any color jacket, but definitely for brown. Frankly, there is just about always a better option than navy or olive. And I'm not sure how you are saying that grey trousers don't go with brown SCs--it's just about the best pairing there is. I see far, far more successful pairings of brown SC and grey trousers than just about anything else.

    As for olive, I can't think of any good pairing off the top of my head. I am sure someone could find one, but there are many dozens of good grey pairings for each olive I am sure.

    Fwiw, I wear a brown SC three or four days a week, so I am very comfortable with the color.
     
  20. ziggy1984

    ziggy1984 New Member

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    Jan 9, 2014
    Sizing question for first pair of dress shoes

    I measured my foot size that the widest part and longest part is 10 cm and 27.5 cm respectively. Which size should i pick for Grenson shoes (for both Fitting F and Fitting G)?
    I wear UK 8.5/US 9.5 in Nike sneaker that fits perfectly (even little tightly)
     

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