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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. ovlov

    ovlov Senior member

    Messages:
    604
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2013
    Location:
    Adelaide
    I was considering getting a pair of Plain toe whole cut oxfords in calf. However someone on another forum said that calf whole cuts are know good as the wrinkles will show up more and they'll look like junk pretty quickly.

    Anyone else got any experience with these and if this is true why do high end shoe makers even sell such shoes? I guess this is maybe why she wholecuts seem so popular. In which case can anyone chime in on experience in sourcing cordovan leather and how much more expensive it generally is than calf (its fro a bespoke commission).
     
  2. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

    Messages:
    791
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2013
    I've been considering a wholecut myself, and my reading has taught me the following.

    A wholecut has more noticeable creasing for sure.

    1. No details to detract the eye from creasing.
    2. No seams to take up stress during walking.

    If the wholecut's last fits your foot very well, creasing will not be a problem. In terms of your bespoke commission, take into consideration that the last of the wholecut is extremely important in terms of creating an elegant look. If your foot has some unattractive anatomical details, the last of your shoe can possibly assume those details.

    Finally, expect cordovan to be substantially more expensive than calf. I think many shoemakers will also flat out refuse to make a wholecut in cordovan, as it's prone to cracking during the lasting process.
     
  3. IG-88

    IG-88 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2013
    Hello,


    Im not sure if this is a quick question or basic advice, but I have just graduated from university and found a job in an office. Although I have some business attire, it is all ready to wear. I want to get a new suit that I can wear to work (also have a wedding to attend in Januray) and I need to buy a good suit. After doing some research I think I am going to go the m2m route. I am just looking for some advice/feedback on which company to use. Since I just started my job a couple months ago I don't have a huge budget, so i'm going to be looking at the more affordable end of suits offered. So, shall it be Black Lapel, Indochino or Institchu?


    Thanks in advance,

    IG-88
     
  4. Terpo

    Terpo Senior member

    Messages:
    269
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2013
    Location:
    Europe
    I assume that you have a very small selection of suits in your closet. Therefore, I would go with an RTW suit (and get it altered) until you know what to look for. There's no point in getting an MTM suit if you have no idea what style lapel, pockets, collar, buttons etc. you want (no offense). It also takes some time until you can properly evaluate the quality of fabrication and appreciate its benefits (sewn vs glued etc.). SuitSupply has some good quality suits for a great price to start with. Once you get the hang of it you can try MTM.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013
  5. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

    Messages:
    693
    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2013
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I am going to second holding off. Go to the mall, try on a million suits of different brands to find what sizes fit you, then hit the thrift/ebay highway, and pick up a few suits.

    If you don't know, take pictures of the suits you try on (almost) everyone buys suits that are too big when they are starting out.

    Have them altered, wear them, see how you like them. Then maybe go MTM.

    It sucks having something made for you, and then finding out it isn't really what you wanted.

    Also, in the beginning, it is nice to start out with 4 or so suits. If you were a carpenter who just needed a good belt and workboots to wear every day that's one thing, but wearing the same suit gets old fast.

    J
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013
  6. Terpo

    Terpo Senior member

    Messages:
    269
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    Oct 6, 2013
    Location:
    Europe
    What shirts go well with green trousers such as this one:
    [​IMG]
    I was thinking white with red stripes or maybe some darker blues. Don't really like the look of the pale blue with it.

    Burgundy shoes are OK though, I think.
     
  7. sithjedi333

    sithjedi333 Member

    Messages:
    13
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    I would like to order some pants and have a question on taking measurements. I'm 6'1", 175 lbs and pretty slim. I'm looking for a slim cut similar to Incotex for casual and business wear, but nothing too tight or hipsterish.

    When ordering shirts, folks on SF usually recommend adding 3" to the body measurement for a tight fit, and 5 inches for a slim fit. This advice has been spot on for me.

    What are the guidelines for the following pant measurements for slim and regular fit? How much should I add to my body measurement on the following metrics to get a good fit?

    1) Waist
    2) Half Hips
    3) Hip Front
    4) Thighs
    5) Knee
    6) Ankle

    Also how do you recommend an appropriate rise?
     
  8. sithjedi333

    sithjedi333 Member

    Messages:
    13
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    WHat kind of fabric is this? It's a RL dress shirt and is very cool and smooth. Thanks.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Terpo

    Terpo Senior member

    Messages:
    269
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2013
    Location:
    Europe


    Find some good fitting pants and take pant measurements for best results. If no single pant is good you can make a table of good fitting features and combine.
     
  10. Sprezziamo

    Sprezziamo Senior member

    Messages:
    173
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2013
    Location:
    Milan
    I'm afraid my local tailor (unfortunately not my usual one) screwed up badly when cuffing my trousers. I asked for a no break, and he probably made them 2/3 cm (about 1") too short, so that socks are always exposed (at least, that was the impression I had when i tried them very quickly and while wearing casual shoes).

    Tonight I'll try them on with a bit more time and while wearing formal shoes etc. In case my suspicions are grounded, is it possible to lenghten the trousers after having them cuffed? Or is the fabric somehow ruined where the current cuff is?

    (They have a 4cm - 1.57" cuff)

    Also, this is a brand new suit I just bought, and I really love it. In case there's nothing that a tailor can do, what should I do? Ask the tailor for a refound? I mean, his mistake seemed quite obvious and objective. Too bad I didn't try them over there, but I was in a hurry and I thought that screwing up such a simple task was virtually impossible (or at least it never happened to me). The suit is from SuitSupply and they don't sell their trousers separately, so buying the same trousers is unfortunately not an option. I'm so mad right now.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013
  11. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    White will look very sharp. A navy sweater, or cardigan, will be good, too. Red stripes could be Christmassey or Clownish, but maybe we are not picturing the same shade of red.
     
  12. Terpo

    Terpo Senior member

    Messages:
    269
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    Oct 6, 2013
    Location:
    Europe
    Thanks for the suggestions. I agree navy would look good. I am personally not a huge fan of white shirts, but maybe white with some solid blue stripes such as the one posted above would work.
     
  13. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Try a white/navy bengal stripe.
     
  14. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Senior member

    Messages:
    752
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2012
    

    Assuming there is sufficient hem underneath, there is no reason to worry. The tailor will undo the cuff, steam press to remove any creases at cuff, lengthen trousers to your desired length, and recuff.
     
  15. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

    Messages:
    369
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    Normally I wear corduroy pants (that have 'jean'-style pockets and rivets) with no crease down the center of the leg. And I wear cords that have trouser-style pockets (and tabbed fastening waste band, etc.) WITH a crease down the center of the leg.

    Question: can I wear the latter without a crease as well (to make them more casual), or will this just look off?

    Thanks!
     
  16. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Vancouver, BC
    

    I vote yes, plus you're still going to be cool for the Beethoven reference.
     
  17. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

    Messages:
    369
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    Aug 20, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    Thanks! I'm gonna give it a try...

    (Oh, and let's not forget Schubert, Bruckner and Mahler references as well...[​IMG])
     
  18. random-adam

    random-adam Senior member

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    Nov 14, 2008
    Location:
    20781
    
    What, we're ignoring Dvorak and Shostakovich? Do they wear uncreased corduroy trousers or something?
     
  19. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

    Messages:
    369
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    Aug 20, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    You make a point. But when I hear the term '9th symphony' my mind doesn't go thinking Dvorak (yawn) or Shostakovich (just another one of his too many...). I guess I'm just not into their 'cords'.

    The great 9ths are: Beethoven, Schubert, Bruckner and Mahler. We all know this. C'mon...
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Robstrongo

    Robstrongo Senior member

    Messages:
    171
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2010
    Location:
    New York
    Which of these sport coats should I get? Looking to expand beyond my basic navy patch pocket SC and want something a little louder yet still versatile, and of course in good taste :foo:.
    A. [​IMG] B. [​IMG]
    C. [​IMG]
     

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